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IIoMli 



HOUSE PLANTS 

THEIR CARE AND CULTURE 



BY 



HUGH FINDLAY, B.S.A. 

ASSISTANT PBOFE8SOR OF HORTICULTURE, JOSEPH SLOCOM COLLEQE 
OF AGRICULTURE, SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY 




WITH 125 ILLUSTRATIONS 



D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 

NEW YORK LONDON 

1916 



,F5- 



COPTBIGHT, 1916, BT 

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 



Printed in the United States of America 



4n 



ICI.A428889 
MAV -8 1916 



.^ 



TO 

MY MOTHER 

WHOSE GENTLE SPIRIT TAUGHT ME TO DREAM 
AND TO 

MY FATHER 

WHOSE ROUGH HANDS AND RUGGED HEART 
TAUGHT ME TO WORK 



PREFACE 

While it is impossible to describe the many and 
varied conditions in which plants eke out an existence 
during the severe winter nights in our window gar- 
dens, yet it is hoped that the general consideration 
of such conditions have been touched upon and help- 
ful suggestions made in this book. 

Careful directions have been given as to the best 
possible place for a window garden, soil preparation, 
and general treatment of the cultural methods of 
growing common house plants, with minute directions 
as to the control of diseases and insects. With each 
plant described is a brief sketch of its history, as well 
as a careful description of propagation. 

It is hoped that this book will aid in better and 
surer results in attaining the pleasure and other bene- 
fits in raising plants in the window or conservatory. 

I am indebted to the following gentlemen for pho- 
tographs : Frederick H. Southworth ; E. J. Kuhne ; 
Lord and Burnham Co., Rochester, N. Y. ; College 
of Photography, Syracuse University ; and to the 
Curtis Publishing Co. for allowing me to reprint the 
articles on Insects, The Rubber Plant, and Care of 

vii 



PREFACE 

Porch Boxes, published in The Country Gentleman. 

I am especially under obligations to my friend, 
Hon. John T. Roberts, for his careful and expert 
criticism of the book, and also to Peter Henderson 
for the information regarding the plant history as 
given in "Henderson's Handbook of Plants." 

I also wish to acknowledge the kindness of my 
friends who allowed me to photograph their choice 
plants, and to Frances and Mary Allen for the fron- 
tispiece. 

Hugh Findlay. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER 

I. The Home Beautiful . 

II. Plant Windows and Conservatories 

III. The Soil for Pot Plants . 

IV. Pots and Potting 

V. Watering ..... 

VI. Natural and Chemical Fertilizers 

VII. Spraying or Syringing 

VIII. Diseases and Their Control 

IX. Insects and Their Control 

X. General Principles and Methods in 

Propagation .... 

XI. Bulb Culture .... 

XII. Flowering Plants for the Window 

Garden ..... 

XIII. Ornamental Foliage Plants 

XIV. Rubber Plant .... 
XV. Chrysanthemum .... 

XVI. Rose 

XVII. Palm ...... 

XVIII. Fern ...... 



PAGE 
1 

3 
13 
22 
32 
38 
42 
46 
54 

63 
73 

119 
184 
209 
217 
225 
236 
246 



IX 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 




PAGE 


XIX. 


Cactus ..... 


. 263 


XX. 


Vines ..... 


. 269 


XXI. 


Porch and Window Boxes . 


. 282 


XXII. 


Flower Baskets . 


. 289 


XXIII. 


Seasonal Care of Plants . 


. 296 


XXIV. 


Helpful Suggestions . 


. 307 




Index ..... 


. 315 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Home . . . . . . . Frontispiece 

FIG. PAGE 

1. — A beautiful conservatory .... 4 

2. — Interior of a well filled conservatory . . 7 

3. — Lean-to greenhouse heated from the cellar . 9 
4. — Interior of lean-to greenhouse with vegeta- 
bles and flowers combined . . .11 
5. — Diagram showing the construction of a com- 
post heap . . . . . .15 

6. — A compost heap of sod, garden loam, and 

horse manure . . . . . .16 

7. — Series of practical pots .... 22 

8. — Pots and saucers ..... 24 

9- — Fancy pots ...... 25 

10. — Drainage of a pot containing plant . . 27 

11. ^Potting a plant ...... 28 

12. — Potting a plant 29 

13. — Potted plant complete .... 30 

14. — Watering pots ...... 34 

15. — Flower bath tub ..... 44 

16. — Rose leaves attacked by downy mildew . 47 

17- — Sulphur and sprayers .... 48 

18. — Material and equipment for controlling in- 
sects and disease ..... 49 

xi 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG. PAGE 

19. — Dust and liquid sprays and sprayers . . 51 
20. — Plant lice or green fly (aphides) on the 

young growing stem of a vinca vine . 55 

21. — Death to green aphides or plant lice . . 56 
22. — The common scale insect (Lecanium hemi- 

sphaericum) on a Boston fern ... 57 

2.S.- — Preparations for spraying ... 58 
24. — The white fly (Aleyrodes citri and A. nubi- 

fera) on a fuchsia leaf . ... 59 

25. — Sure death to white fly and aphides . . 60 
26. — Mass of mealy bug (Pseudococcus citri and 

P. longifilis) on a coleus plant . . 62 

27- — Interior of a stem ..... 64 

28. — A sifting pan, flat, and hamper for the prop- 
agation of plants from seed ... 65 
29. — Double propagating pot . ... 65 

30. — Home-made propagation bed ... 68 

31. — Propagation bed complete .... 69 

32. — A propagating bed . ' . . . .71 

33. — Diagram showing how to pot and pit bulbs 74 
34. — Tapping edge of pot in order to remove soil 

from pot ...... 75 

35. — Position of hand over soil in order not to 

disturb the root system .... 76 

36. — A beautifully developed root system . . 77 
37. — Method of restoring the, ball ... 78 
38. — Hyacinth with a well developed root system 80 
39- — Several well developed blooms of the hya- 
cinth in a pan ..... 83 

xii 



FIG. 
40. 

41.— 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Three well developed hyacinths in a three- 
quarter-sized pot 
A hyacinth bulb with a well developed root 
system in a bulb jar 

42. — Hyacinth which has been given too much 
water and food 

43. — Tulips 

44. — A beautiful group of double narcissus 

45. — Easter lily 

46. — Lily of the Nile, calla 

47. — The cyclamen 

48. — Amaryllis formosissima 

49. — Alphonse Riccard 

50. — Beaute Potevine . 

51. — A good bloom but a poorly shaped plant 

52. — A bed of geranium planted out after storing 
in a cellar over the winter 

53. — Lady Washington 

54. — Tree-shaped fuchsia 

55. — The cineraria 

56. — Japanese spirea 

57. — A beautiful gloxinia 

58. — The gloxinia 

59. — ^An amateur's window of gloxinias 

60. — Abutilons originated by Anson Wheeler 
Morrisville, N. Y 

61. — The abutilon or flowering maple 

62. — Boston fern or hibiscus in combination with 
other plants 

63. — Double petunia . 

xiii 



84 

85 

86 
89 
92 

96 
100 
106 
111 
120 
121 
122 

123 
125 
128 
131 
135 
143 
145 
147 

148 
149 

152 
155 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

'IG. PAGE 

64. — Primula abconica . . . . .158 

6.5. — A fine specimen of heliotrope . . . 163 

66. — The marguerite . . . . . .165 

67- — Pot-grown carnation . . . . .169 

68.^ — Hydrangea otaska grown in a window gar- 
den 172 

69- — Tuberous root begonias . . . .175 

70. — Fancy leaf begonias originated by Anson 

Wheeler, Morrisville, X. Y. . . .185 

71. — Rex begonia . . . . . .186 

72. — Propagation of the rex begonia . . .187 

73. — Begonia metallica . . . . .188 

74. — Begonia argentea guttata . . . .189 

75. — Gloire de Lorraine . . . . .190 

76.- — Silver leaf begonia . . . . .191 

77- — Araucaria ....... 193 

78. — Aspidistra elatior variegata . . . 200 

79.- — An ornamental arrangement of century 

plants 202 

80. — American aloe variegata .... 203 
81. — The coleus, a beautiful foliage plant . . 205 

82. — Coleus cutting 206 

83. — A single mealy bug on a coleus before set- 
tling 207 

84.— The rubber plant 210 

85. — Stem of a rubber plant wounded to make a 

cutting . . . . . . .211 

86. — Wounded stem bound in sphagnum moss . 212 
87. — Placing clay over wound to prevent bleeding 213 

xiv 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG. 

88. — Finger pointing at root showing through 
moss 

89- — Young rubber plant . 

90. — Three beautiful pink single stem blooms of 
Glory of the Pacific 

91. — Chrysanthemums 

92. — The Dorothy Perkins 

93. — Rose cuttings 

94. — The mildew dusted with flowers of sulphur 

95. — A group of palms in a shady place for the 
summer ...... 

QG. — A fine specimen of Kentia belmoreana 

97. — Position of the hands while washing a palm 
leaf ...... 

98. — San Jose scale on a palm leaf 

99- — The Cocoa weddelliana 
100. — Nephrolepis magnifica 
101. — Fine feathery roots of the Boston fern 
102. — Diagram showing the cross section of a fern 

pot .... 

108. — Moss fern .... 
lOi. — Crested fern 
10.'). — ^Crow's nest or bird's nest fern 
106. — A beautiful Boston fern . 
107. — A beautiful pteris fern 
108. — Asparagus sprengeri 
109. — Asparagus plumosus manus 
110. — Night-blooming cereus at 9:30 P. M. 
111. — Night-blooming cereus at 4:30 P. M. 
112. — A pot of German ivy 

XV 



214 
215 

218 
221 
226 
227 
232 

237 
239 

241 
243 

244 
247 
248 

249 
250 
252 
253 
254 
257 
259 
261 
265 
267 
271 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG. PAGE 

1 1 3. — A hanging basket of tradescantia or Wan- 
dering Jew ...... 275 

114. — The graceful vinca major variegata . . 277 
115. — An artistic porch box and lattice . . 283 
116. — A window box with good lines but poorly- 
filled 284 

117. — Sod steps balanced on each side by artistic 

porch boxes . . . . . .286 

1 1 8. — An artistic entrance, dracaenas, geraniums 

and vincas in the boxes .... 287 

1 19. — Hanging baskets add beauty to this entrance 289 

120. — Hanging basket before filling . . . 290 

121. — Hanging basket after filling . . . 293 

122. — A well filled basket 294 

123. — The exterior view of an attractive bay win- 
dow 297 

124. — The interior of an attractive window garden .304 
125. — The King Adjustable Plant Stand suitable 

for conservatories . . . .311 



HOUSE PLANTS 



HOUSE PLANTS, THEIR 
CARE AND CULTURE 

CHAPTER I 

THE HOME BEAUTIFUL 

The chief end of labor should be human 
happiness, and so the effort that is piit forth 
in the cultural art of taking care of house 
plants not only brings happiness to the heart 
of the grower, but also to the passer-by who 
with a hungry soul admires this plant or that 
in the window and remembers. 

Often after the chaotic condition of our 
minds, the battle of the day having been lost 
or won, we seat ourselves near the big window 
and look at our plants. What a peace comes 
over our hearts as our plant friends scatter 
flower memories over the barrenness of our 

1 



HOUSE PLANTS 

souls. The corner stone of evolution itself is 
the home, and there is no occupation that will 
make this corner stone more beautiful than the 
culture of house plants. 

The suggestions put forth in this book are 
from personal experience and observation. I 
have followed this chosen profession from boy- 
hood and I owe much to my father's guidance 
as an expert gardener and florist and to my 
mother's tender heart in encouraging me in 
the love and study of plant life. So I have 
watched the evolution of the Home Beautiful 
and have taken part in the delightful occupa- 
tion of caring for the window garden. 

There are a number of books on house 
plants, and it is hoped that the detailed de- 
scription of the care and culture of the various 
plants common to the home, as found in this 
book, will encourage the culture of more house 
plants and better house plants, and finally to 
create a greater love for the home, the com- 
munity, and our beautiful country of homes 
and flowers. 

2 



CHAPTER II 

PLANT WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES 

Whether or not to keep house plants is a 
question that comes to every housekeeper once 
a year. Failure on previous occasions may 
decide for the negative, but with a large num- 
ber of plucky and sanguine women it works 
the other way. Having failed once is a reason 
for renewed effort and improved method. 

It may be found that the presence of the 
plants has been embarrassing in many of the 
homes. They have shaded windows that were 
needed for lighting the rooms. They have 
interfered with ventilation. They have caused 
no end of anxiety on cold nights. Yes, this 
may all be painfully true. Still why not keep 
them a little longer ? Keep them for patience' 
sake and for the children. But cannot some- 
thing be done to improve conditions? Those 

3 



HOUSE PLANTS 



windows — why not make a study of these 
things in the summertime and arrange special 




Fig. 1. — A Beautiful Conservatory 

plant alcoves in addition to the regular light- 
ing windows? Much may be done even in the 

4i 



WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES 

old houses to make the plants feel at home. 
But when a new home is being planned then 
certainly a little ingenuity without additional 
expense can provide a charming solution of the 
plant question. Whj^ do not house archi- 
tects take up this matter and help the per- 
plexed housekeeper? Bearing in mind that 
certain plants need a south or east exposure, 
while others, like ferns, should always be 
shaded, let the architect specify two bay win- 
dows, each in some manner provided with heat 
and if possible separated from the rooms by 
glass doors. All of this will cost some addi- 
tional money; so will the bathroom, the piano, 
the fireplace. We provide many things in our 
homes that could be dispensed with. Why not 
think of the winter lodgings of the children 
and those who used to be children? 

One convenient plan we would suggest is a 
long bay window entered from two adjoining 
rooms, kitchen and dining-room, a glass door 
for each room. It should be at least five feet 
wide and if you are brave enough, insist on a 

5 



HOUSE PLANTS 

glass roof. In such a room, which is really a 
conservatory, there are most beautiful possi- 
bilities. 

And why do not our schools have their plant 
rooms or conservatories or even complete 
greenhouses? Many cities are spending 
yearly from $700,000 to $1,000,000 in con- 
structing new school buildings in which they 
provide rest rooms, swimming-pools, kitchens, 
dance halls, sewing-rooms, workshops. Not 
one of these contains a suggestion of a plant 
room. What a beautiful feature of school life 
would be a twelve by sixteen greenhouse, cost- 
ing one hundred and twenty dollars to build 
and no additional cost for heating! Why not 
let the church consider the construction of a 
plant room adjoining the auditorium or the 
Sunday-school room? Let it be twenty by six- 
teen feet at least. Make it large enough for 
the mid-week prayer meeting of winter nights. 
Suppose a few carnations or roses or a hand- 
ful of heliotrope could go out from such a 
room to the home of a sick member or for a 

6 




Courtesy of Lord and Burnham Co. 

Fig. 2. — Interior of a Well Filled_Conservatory 
Note the grace and beauty of hanging baskets. 



HOUSE PLANTS 

birthday reminder or to enforce a thought 
strug-ghng for mastery. Would they not be 
suitable helps to the sermon ? Call them home 
missionaries. 

And why should there not be a few munici- 
pal greenhouses where people unable to grow 
and watch plants in their own homes might get 
an occasional half -hour's joy of the summer- 
time when winter is pressing down the spirit 
of man ? Probably there are in every city hun- 
dreds of persons, infirm, poor, cramped for 
house room, to whom a welcome at a green- 
house would be most enjoyable. It need not 
be large nor expensive. Common varieties of 
flowers could be grown, the more familiar the 
better. Cities are looking after the enjoy- 
ment of the youngsters more and more. They 
must have their playgrounds, their skating 
areas, their swimming-pools. Why should not 
their grandparents, banished forever from lux- 
ury, from rural delights, from participation in 
the pursuits of agriculture, have an occasional 
breath of garden air in the dreary winter days ? 

8 



WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES 

Think what the great parks of European 
cities would be without their popular gardens 
and greenhouses. Our finest remembrances of 




Courtesy of Lord and Burnkam Co. 

Fig. 3. — Lean-to Greenhouse Heated from the Cellar 

9 



HOUSE PLANTS 

London and Paris have to do with the gardens 
maintained by the municipaHties. And how 
the people do love them! Yet no cooperative 
plan worked out in the lines suggested cpn 
properly take the place of the dear little plant 
corner in every home. 

The plant window is subject to fluctuations 
of temperature on account of the artificial 
means by which it is heated, while the mois- 
ture and lighting may to a limited extent be 
governed. On extremely cold nights, close 
the windows tightly, pull down the shades and 
if necessary place a large lamp or oilstove in 
the window. Where a radiator is used a pan 
of water should always be placed on it so as 
to keep the air moist during the day, but this 
should be removed not later than three p. m. 
during the winter months so that the moisture 
is eliminated during the cold night. The tem- 
perature is best controlled bj^ having a small 
individual stove with pipes leading to the win- 
dow greenhouse so that it supplies heat di- 
rectly to it. This method of heating always 

10 



WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES 

pays since the stove costs about twenty dollars 
and the piping* about ten dollars, while the cost 
of coal is small compared with the results rea- 




Courtesy of Lord and Burnham Co. 

Fig. 4. — Intekior of Lean-to Greenhouse with Vegetables and 

Flowers Combined 

Note plants under the bench. Every possible place utilized. 



lized in the production of perfect plants and 
beautiful bloom. 

The lean-to greenhouse is one of the most 
satisfactory of all simple and inexpensive con- 

11 



HOUSE PLANTS 

structions. It is certain that the reason more 
people do not have small greenhouses is be- 
cause they have only a vague idea of their pos- 
sibilities. A small greenhouse such as shown 
in Fig. 3 costs about two hundred and fifty 
dollars to six hundred dollars and the pleasure 
of tending garden in one of these thoroughly 
built, splendidly equipped houses is beyond 
estimation. I have seen in a small greenhouse, 
heated by a small heater in the cellar, lettuce, 
radishes and other vegetables and also many 
beautiful flowers grown at the same time. 

If a piazza or bay-window conservatory, or 
one constructed over a cellar door, or a lean-to 
greenhouse is to be built, it is the general opin- 
ion that a reliable greenhouse firm should be 
consulted and if the directions advised are 
carried out regarding construction and heat- 
ing, success is sure to follow. 



CHAPTER III 

THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS 

God breathed the breath of life into the soil and it 
smiled back at its Creator in the form of a flower. — H. F. 

The plants in field or wood, in garden or 
home depend not alone on oxygen, hydrogen 
and nitrogen from the atmosphere, but also on 
a combination of elements found in the soil. 
It must be remembered from the beginning 
that the plants taken into the home are often 
handicapped by the various gases in the room 
or conservatory and also by the limited amount 
of soil in the pot or bench, and often by lack 
of the right type of soil for the particular 
plant. 

The proper soil treated with sufficient air 
and water and with ordinary fertility will de- 
velop satisfactory plants, but why not make a 

13 



HOUSE PLANTS 

study of the natural haunts of your plants, as 
far as possible, and the kind of soil in which 
they thrive best, and then apply your knowl- 
edge and be satisfied with only the best results ? 
There are many combinations of soil, but for 
general purposes the compost soil is the best. 
Do not start to build the heap in a low-lying 
place, but give it good drainage. Invert six 
inches of sod over the surface, then throw on 
six inches of loose garden loam, add six to 
eight inches of cow manure on top of this and 
then another layer of soil and manure. Re- 
move the stones. After a heap of the desired 
size, not over four feet high, is built, cover with 
inverted sod six inches deep on sides and top. 
Allow this to stand for three months or more 
(winter), then chop the sods into small pieces, 
mix and turn the entire heap. This should be 
done at least three times before the soil is used, 
thus distributing all of the fertilizers evenly. 
It is also advisable to scatter bone meal over 
the soil, but never dump garbage or pour dish- 
water over the heap as is occasionally advised. 

14 



THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS 

Another compost is made by using a foot of 
leaves on the bottom, six inches of soil and sod 




Fig. 5. — Diagram Showing the Construction of a Compost Heap 
S, surface of soil; A, soil and sod; B, manure; C, sod, grass side down 

and six inches of horse manure, straw having 
been used for bedding the horses. Add con- 
siderable bone meal ground fine. If the horse 
manure should be a little dry, give it a good 
watering. 

A good compost for ferns is made by using 
one foot of leaves, one foot of dark rich garden 
loam and sod, a little sheep manure scattered 

15 



HOUSE PLANTS 

over the soil and then repeated in layers until 
the heap is three or four feet in height. Turn 




Fig. 6. — A Compost Heap of Sod, Garden Loam, and Horse 
Manure 

16 



THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS 

over a number of times after three or four 
months, leaving the compost loose and friable. 

There is a general opinion that the black 
woods dirt is very rich. This is a mistake, and 
forest soil should never be used alone for any 
cultivated plant. Nevertheless the muck-land 
soil is fine to add to the fern compost heap, but 
see to it that vermin are destroyed by steriliz- 
ing. Many housewives put the soil in the oven. 
Be careful not to cook and kill your soil by 
leaving it in the heat too long — never more 
than twenty or thirty minutes. The soil is 
alive just as much as the plant, and there are 
millions of small organisms that live only a 
short period, die and become plant food as 
they decay in the soil. Too much heat will de- 
stroy all of this life which is of the greatest 
importance to growth. 

The clay type of soil is suited only to a few 
plants, like the rose, but stiff clay should never 
be used. It is not a mistake to add the sod 
from the clay soil and also a little horse ma- 
nure to the clay compost, especially for the 

17 



HOUSE PLANTS 

rose. Bone meal should be added in liberal 
quantities to the clay soil because the plant 
food is not liberated all at once but gradually. 
Clay in itself is often rich, but the plant food is 
locked up and any fermentation will aid in 
liberating it. 

Sand is the most desirable type for the prop- 
agation of plants. Clean white sand is pref- 
erable, but road sand is good. There is little 
vegetable matter in it. Any decay in the soil 
coming in contact with the wounded portion 
of the cutting will in turn cause the cutting to 
decay. Fungus growths of various kinds are 
retarded in clean sand because of the lack of 
plant food, and the looseness of the sand will 
admit the air. 

Certain types of soils become sour by the 
use of too much water or from pots standing in 
vessels partly filled with water. The tips of 
the roots begin to decay and turn brown. The 
same condition is found on roots where the pots 
containing resting plants during the summer 
are left standing in damp, shady places. 

18 



THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS 

Whenever leaf mold is used in the compost it 
is not a bad plan to scatter a little lime over 
the soil, but never over the manure or leaves, 
for this will tend to preserve them and prevent 
decay. 

There is a great deal of discussion as to the 
kind of manure to use. Cow manure is the 
most desirable of all, because it mixes so evenly 
in the soil and there are fewer worms in it than 
in horse manure. It also has an evenly bal- 
anced food value for the plants. Horse ma- 
nure is also valuable, providing the horse is fed 
grain (oats) and bedded in straw. The ma- 
nure from horses fed solely on hay and 
bedded in pine shavings is never desirable, be- 
cause the manure is poor in food value and the 
pine shavings tend to sour the soil as well as 
to keep it too loose. The shavings are slow to 
decay and have little or no food value, and 
since there is a limited space in the pot for soil 
every available advantage should be taken to 
favor the plant. 

Chicken manure is very highly concentrated 
19 



HOUSE PLANTS 

and often burns the roots of plants where it is 
used too freely. I have successfully potted 
ferns in three parts soil and sod, one part leaf 
mold, a little chicken manure and lime scat- 
tered through the comjjost, but care must be 
taken in combining these. Never use hog" 
manure. The odor is offensive in the house 
even when the parts are well mixed. Sheep 
manure is more concentrated than either horse 
or cow manure, and when pulverized and used 
in limited quantities it is most satisfactory. 

It is not alwaj'^s possible to have the combi- 
nations of soils and manures suggested, but 
with our modern methods of travel even the 
city folk may get into the country and secure 
a pail or basket of rich garden loam. Do not 
shake out the sod or roots, for fiber, if not too 
rough, will soon decay and aid in the growth of 
the plants. The roots and sod not only decay 
and liberate food, but they help to hold the 
moisture in the soil, which is of great impor- 
tance. Your success is in the soil you use as 
well as in the care you give your plants, so there 

20 



THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS 

cannot be too much attention given to the 
prej)aration of the soil. No one can advise you 
as to the combination to use in your part of the 
country without first having some experience 
with the soil, because soils vary so much, but 
after a year's observation j^ou can easily select 
the best soil suited for the individual plant. 
This always adds interest to window garden- 
ing, for every plant lover is experimenting and 
hoping for the best results. When you can 
feel the heart throb of the soil you are in tune 
with nature and you will succeed in your at- 
tempt to grow house plants. 



CHAPTER IV 

POTS AND POTTING 

There are two classes of plants to be con- 
sidered when the pots are to be selected: flow- 
ering and foliage plants. The flowering plants 
in general do not require as large pots as do 




Fig. 7. — Series of Practical Pots 
A series of shifts for a growing plant from a three- to a six-inch pot. 

the foliage plants, for we find that the flowers 
are more abundant if the plant is a little pot- 
bound, while the foliage plants require more 
water and therefore more soil. The kind of 

22 



POTS AND POTTING 

plants grown often governs our selection of 
pots. Tulips and hyacinths do well in earthen 
bulb pans, varying from six inches to eighteen 
inches, while geraniums do better in earthen 
flower pots, which are much deeper, while the 
very large plants require tubs. The shallowest 
of all are the earthen fern pans and they vary 
in size according to the use they are put to. 
These pots range in size as seen in Fig. 7. 

Before potting with new pots it is advisable 
to submerge them in water for at least an hour, 
so that they may be saturated with water, and 
this will prevent the pot from drawing the 
moisture from the soil. The new pots should 
be drained for a few minutes before using, oth- 
erwise it will be difficult to remove the soil in 
a ball when desired, the soil adhering to the 
side of the pot. 

Of all the operations in the work of potting, 
the providing of drainage is the most impor- 
tant. Invert a piece of crock over the hole on 
the bottom of the pot and then put in one-half 
inch of rough soil in the bottom. This will in- 

23 



HOUSE PLANTS 

sure drainage. Pots over four inches should 
always be treated in this way. In some cases 
(fern) lumps of charcoal placed at the bottom 
of the pot will aid drainage and also admit the 
air to the soil and in this way keep it sweet. 




Fig. 8.— Pots and Saucers 
A, stationary saucer, seldom emptied and often a detriment to 
growth; B, portable saucer and pot. The saucer may be emp- 
tied after each watering. 

If the crock is not used in large pots the soil 
is often washed out by the water and the con- 
tinual displacement of soil from the roots in- 
jures the plant, and also keeps the bench or 
sill dirty. Where the amateur feels that 
plants must be watered every day, which is not 

24 



POTS AND POTTING 

always necessary, proper drainage is of the 
greatest importance to prevent an oversupply 
of water which shuts out the air and in turn 
sickens the plant. 

Where the plants are standing on benches 




Fig. 9. — Fancy Pots 
Fancy pots difficult to keep clean but attractive. 

have an inch of ashes on the bottom and over 
these scatter a little lime. This will aid drain- 
age as well as prevent slugs. 

Plates, saucers and vessels of any kind into 
which the pots are set are dangerous if the 
water is not removed. The stagnant water will 
soon sour the soil and kill the roots. 

25 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Never use tin cans. While I have seen some 
fine plants grown in tin cans, yet they might 
have been finer had they been grown in pots. 
The cans rust and kill the tips of the tender 
roots. While iron is necessary to a limited 
amount in the soil, yet too nmch is very dan- 
gerous to growth. Glazed pots are objection- 
ahle and wood fiber pots do not last long. The 
hand- or machine-made earthen pots are by far 
the best. 

Do not give the young 2:)lants too much food. 
A small pot should be used at the beginning, 
to be followed by a gradual increase in size 
according to the habit of growth and the type 
of plant treated. 

Hold the seedling between the first finger 
and thumb of the left hand, covering the heart 
of the young plant with the seed leaves. 

With the right hand partly fill the pot with 
soil, place the seedling at the proper depth, 
being careful never to cover the growing tip, 
then fit the soil about the plant. Place the 
thumbs of each hand on both sides of the plant 

26 



POTS AND POTTING 

and firm the soil about it (Fig. 12), then lift 
the pot with both hands and strike the bottom 
squarely against the potting bench in order to 
firm the soil. Larger plants are firmed by- 
tamping the soil with a flat stick. Always be 



— C 



— -F 






Fig. 10. — Diagram of a Pot Containing Plant 
A, Drainage hole at bottom of pot; B, bench; C, ashes; D, broken 
crock, inverted to promote drainage; E, rough soil, sod and small 
stones; F, soil; G, rim of pot. 



sure to give the roots freedom in position, but 
never allow an air space below the roots, for 
this means sure death to the plant. 

After the plant has reached a certain growth 
it is well to examine the roots by placing the 

27 




HOUSE PLANTS 

left hand over the surface of the soil, the stem 
of the plant between the second and third fin- 
gers. Invert and strike the rim of the pot on 
the edge of some solid object, remove the pot 




Fig. 11. — Potting a Plant 
Position of plant in pot. Fill in the soil around the roots. 

carefully, so as not to disturb the roots. After 
the roots have been examined, cover the ball of 
soil while it is in the same position in the hand ; 
when all the ball of soil is in the pot, turn it 
right side up and firm the soil by striking the 

28 



POTS AND POTTING 

bottom of the pot against the potting bench. 
When the operation of potting is completed 
the soil should be three-fourths to an inch be- 
low the top of the rim (Fig. 13), so that the 




Fig. 12. — Potting a Plant 
Position of thumbs in pressing soil about the roots. 

water may be evenly distributed over the sur- 
face. If the pot is too full of soil the water 
runs oif and the plant receives no benefit. 

In repotting old plants or plants that have 
been resting during the summer, shake off the 

29 



HOUSE PLANTS 

old soil, prune off all disfigured or decayed 
roots and a few of the good roots, then prune 
the top so that there is a balance between the 
requirements of the foliage and the supply 




Fig. 13. — Potted Plant Complete 
Note the rim of the pot and the heart of the plant. Room for water. 

through the root system. Always be sure to 
have the soil firm about the plant. Newly 
potted plants, seedlings, cuttings or old plants 
should be kept in the shade for a few days so 
that they may get established before coming to 
the light. 

30 



POTS AND POTTING 

The soil becomes tired of water, gases and 
general conditions in the pot and it is to the ad- 
vantage of the grower to take time and interest 
to repot at least once a year. Where the soil 
is rich, the pot large enough, and fertilizers 
used at various times, one potting a year is 
enough and with the large tub plants once in 
six or eight years. There are now on the mar- 
ket Krick's pot hangers, also the Eureka 
hangers. In this case the pot is used as a hang- 
ing basket, the air from the bottom, sides 
and top dries it out more quickly than a pot on 
a bench; therefore the plant requires more 
water. 

Care should be taken to have plants, espe- 
cially seedlings, placed in the center of the pot. 
I have never seen anyone careless in this small 
detail who was truly successful with plants. 



CHAPTER V 

WATERING 

We have no set rule or time for watering 
plants, but all plants should be watered when 
necessary. This is determined by the grower, 
for on dull days the plants need less water than 
on bright days. It is not a good practice to 
allow the plant to flag or wilt before water is 
applied. The best practice for the general 
culture is to rap the pots, and should there be 
a hollow sound, the soil below the surface is 
di*3^ and if a dull, dead sound the soil is moist 
even though the surface may look dry. 

Some overzealous persons usually water the 
plant every day and sometimes twice a day. 
If this practice is followed, the plants become 
sickly before long, the leaves turn yellow and 
the growth becomes spindling. Few flowers, 
if any, are developed on such plants. Judg- 

32 




WATERING 

ment must be exercised from the watering of 
the seed bed until the harvest of the bloom. 

In watering the seed flat after the seed is 
sown, it is advisable to use a fine rose or sprink- 
ler, so that the seed is not washed out of posi- 
tion. The soil should be moist, not wet, from 
the surface to the bottom of the box. Cover- 
ing these boxes with glass and then paper will 
prevent evaporation and this in turn will mean 
less watering. Too much water lessens the 
vitality of the seed and impairs the growth of 
the seedling. It also has a tendency to de- 
velop a green scum over the surface of the seed 
bed which is most dangerous, causing many of 
the young plants to decay. After the young 
plants are transferred to the first pot, which is 
small, little water is required, but the growing 
seedling should never suff'er from drought. 
In supplying water to larger pots be careful 
not to wash out the soil, which is often done 
in the center of the pot and the roots around 
the stem of the plant are exposed. After the 
water has drained thoroughly into the soil it is 

33 



HOUSE PLANTS 

a good practice to stir the surface with a fork 
or stick, but do not go deep or the roots near 
the surface will be injured. 

The main aim in watering is to get the mois- 
ture to the roots and this must be done with 



. r> 




/ 


^w?^B 


M \ \ 


/ 


imw [^^^B^ 


Nu^- 


■0 


i^ 








m 


Ml 


■■■ 



Fig. 14. — Watering Pots 
A, practical watering pot, especially for seed beds; B, rose to be 
placed on the spout of the watering pot so as to distribute the 
water like rain; C, fancy watering pot. 



care. Water should not be allowed to stand in 
vessels in which the pot is placed, though 
fine seed sown in pots are often watered by 
plunging the pot in water and allowing the 
moisture to enter from below. This is a good 

34 



WATERING 

practice with begonia or calceolaria seed. In 
the case of ferns and other plants standing in a 
jardiniere for several weeks the water becomes 
stagnant, the air about the pot foul and in gen- 
eral the plant will soon take on a yellow ap- 
pearance, sicken and often die. In watering 
the plants with liquid cow manure the solution 
should be very weak, like weak tea. Water 
on days when the room may be ventilated, and 
shortly after applying the liquid to the soil 
stir the surface and there will be little or no 
odor such as might be expected. Never allow 
the manure water to come in contact with the 
foliage. The mixture should stand for a few 
days before applying and then be applied only 
in limited quantities. , 

In the summer plants are best watered in 
the evening. The open windows will allow the 
dews or moisture to enter and the water gradu- 
ally works its way into the soil. Pots dry out 
quickly in the wind or a draft, especially when 
the air is hot and dry. Never wet the foliage 
in the summer when the sun is high. 

35 



HOUSE PLANTS 

In winter it is best to water the plants in the 
morning and on bright days, if possible, so 
that the foliage may become dry before night. 

This is not always possible where the rooms 
are kept warm and dry ; in this case care should 
be exercised not to wet the foliage on dull days, 
for this carelessness might breed disease. 

Hanging baskets suffer from lack of mois- 
ture more than any other decoration we have 
introduced among home-grown plants. The 
air circulating about the entire surface makes 
frequent watering necessary, especially where 
the basket is exposed to the sun. The most 
practical method is to plunge the entire basket 
in water for a half -hour and allow the water to 
work toward the center from all parts. Where 
the lowering of the basket is not practical the 
tin can method may be employed. Place in 
the center of the basket a narrow can per- 
forated with holes, fill the can with water and 
let it seep into the soil. The surface may be 
watered successfully by applying the water 
slowly and allowing it to work into the soil. 

36 



WATERING 

Window boxes often suffer from lack of 
proper moisture. Be sure the water reaches 
the roots as indicated by the water escaping 
drop by drop from the drainage holes in the 
bottom of the box. As soon as the drip begins 
stop watering. 

Different plants require various applications 
of water. The fuchsia or geranium can stand 
a greater amount of moisture than palms, while 
the cactus, being a native of hot dry climates, 
requires but little watering. 

After a time the amateur florist feels the 
needs of the plants on looking at them; they 
become so much a part of his life that the 
plants apj)eal to his senses, and after several 
years of practice and close observation various 
plants exposed to different amounts of light 
will receive the proper attention, because the 
heart answers to the plants' needs. 



CHAPTER VI 

NATURAL AND CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS 

Stable manures are the most desirable for 
they not only add fertilizer or plant food to the 
soil but they generally change its physical con- 
dition. If stable manures are kept moist, pro- 
tected from the open air and never allowed to 
burn, which causes horse manure to turn a slate 
color, they will always be a benefit to the soil. 
See chapter on Soils, page 19. 

Never plant a seedling or cutting in a large 
pot filled with richlj^ manured soil, for it will 
act on the plant as beefsteak would if given 
to a tiny baby at every meal. The child will 
soon grow sick ; so does the plant. 

After plants are well established there is no 
fertilizer more desirable than liquid cow ma- 
nure. Plunge a half-barrel in some out-of-the- 
way place and put in soft cow manure; add 

38 



FERTILIZERS 

water and allow it to stand for two days. 
Cover the barrel in order to keep out insects 
which might breed in it. Dilute the liquid so 
that it looks like very weak tea and apply at 
intervals as advised. After the liquid has set- 
tled and the soil is not very wet, stir with a 
small flat stick. This liquid manure is also fine 
for sweet peas and garden vegetables like to- 
matoes after the small fruits are formed. 

Manure gathered from a cow pasture after 
several weeks' exposure to the elements and 
chopped up fine makes a most satisfactory top 
dressing for pot plants. Commercial ferti- 
lizers should be the last resort in the culture 
of pot plants, with the one exception, bone 
meal, which is a most reliable fertilizer when 
immediate results are not required. If mixed 
with soil or manure the plant food is slowly 
liberated, so that good results are realized dur- 
ing the entire season. 

There are several grades of bone fertilizer: 
A, coarse cracked; B, coarse ground; C, bone 
meal finely ground, sometimes called bone dust. 

39 



HOUSE PLANTS 

This last grade is most satisfactory when ap- 
phed to the surface of the soil and worked in, 
while the coarse ground is best for compost 
heaps. 

Tankage is sometimes applied to rose soil 
and is found satisfactory. 

If your plants grow sickly and yellow, other 
things being right, it is a notice from the plant 
that more food is needed. A little pinch of 
nitrate of soda in a cup of water applied to 
each pot will bring the plants back to health; 
and it is well at this time to work in a little 
bone dust. A large application of nitrate of 
soda will kill the plant, so apply sparingly, 
being careful not to wet the leaves. 

There are many patent fertilizers or medi- 
cines for the soil, mostly made up of nitrate of 
soda, some of them very satisfactory. 

Thompson's Chrysanthemum Manure and 
also Fertilene are desirable for chrysanthemum 
culture. 

Mak Gro is an odorless plant food particu- 
larly adapted for house plants. A one-pound 

40 



FERTILIZERS 

box is enough for application to fifty 4-inch 
pots. 

Macbell's Plant Food is a highly concen- 
trated chemical fertilizer for house plants. 

Bowker's Plant Food is odorless and ex- 
quisitely fine for sturdy plants. Ammonia is 
sometimes used to feed palms and other plants. 
It is not a true plant food and should not be 
used. It simply stimulates the plant to greater 
activity, but gives it nothing to build on. 

Feed your plants as you would the human 
family. Study their needs, listen with your 
eyes to their calls and as they grow older, more 
and coarser food may be given to them, as in 
the case of the chrysanthemum. 

Never overfeed and never starve your 
plants ; both are poor practices. 



CHAPTER VII 

SPRAYING OR SYRINGING 

Nature sprays or washes the faces and bod- 
ies of her children with the rain, removing" any 
foreign rnatter from flower, foliage or stem, 
and how fresh the flowers look after a shower! 
Potted plants in the house are in an unnatural 
condition and we must act as agents to direct 
the elements as nearly as possible to Nature's 
way; therefore an occasional spraying or 
syringing is most desirable for house plants. 
Dust is an enemy to the plants. It clogs the 
]3ores of the leaves. Plants with a hairy or 
rough foliage, like the geranium or heliotrope, 
should be covered with newspapers, sheets, etc., 
while sweeping is being done, except where a 
carpet sweeper or a vacuum cleaner is used. 
In winter spray the plants with a parlor 
syringe, an elastic sprinkler. Use water with 

42 



SPRAYING OR SYRINGING 

the chill taken off, apply in the morning and 
only on bright days. 

Dipping a whisk broom into the water and 
sprinkling the plants is an awkward method 
and not at all satisfactory because the spray 
is not fine enough and it is not applied with 
sufficient force to dislodge insects or remove 
dust. Spray the under side of the leaves as 
well as the upper side. I have devised a bath 
tub and you can make one. Surround a large 
13an by a framework lined with oilcloth. Place 
the plant in the pan and spray. You make no 
spots on the glass or wall, and there is no dan- 
ger of chilling the plant as when removing it 
to another room. After plants are returned 
to the window and one side is dry, turn the 
pot so that the moist side may be exposed to 
the sunshine. 

Where it is possible without doing damage 
to the woodwork or paper, spray the plants, 
pots and sills on bright days. The moisture 
about the plants has a tendency to stimulate a 
luxuriant growth. 

43 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Plants should never be placed out-of-doors 
during" a cold rain in the fall. It is just as 
uncomfortable for the plant and just as peril- 




FiG. 15. — Flower Bath Tub 
Diagram showing bath tub in which to spray house plants. A, open 
front; B, depth of pan, 4 inches; C, width of pan, 4 ft. square; D, 
oil cloth on three sides, 3J^ ft. high; E, portable frame 4 ft. high 
inside of pan. Oil cloth should reach the bottom of pan to prevent 
dripping of water on the floor. 



ous, as it would be for yourself to stand in the 
shower unprotected. 

For mo.st plants the temperature of the room 
should be from 65° to 75° F. before the bath. 



SPRAYING OR SYRINGING 

The proper spraying or syringing of plants 
with clean water dislodges many insects, re- 
moves dust and stimulates a healthy growth. 

Judgment must be used when to spray but 
it is a good practice to spray once a week dur- 
ing the winter if the weather will permit and 
every day during the late spring and summer. 

The leaves are the lungs of the plant and if 
these are clogged with dust, the plant catches 
cold, sickens and dies. A bath to a plant is as 
necessary to its health as a bath is to the health 
of a human being. 



CHAPTER VIII 

DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL 

It is impossible in the limited space of this 
little book to go into detail regarding the hab- 
its of the organisms causing disease or into the 
study of the many diseases that attack plants, 
but we may simply refer to causes and possible 
control. 

There are two types of fungi common to 
house plants: the fungus which develops and 
covers the surface of the foliage, like the 
downy mildew on the rose; and the fungus 
which causes the breaking down of the cells of 
the plant, finally promoting decay. Bacterial 
diseases are not so common to house plants. 

The fungus is propagated by means of 
spores, which are not unlike the seed of flower- 
ing plants, and they need air, moisture and 
heat to germinate. The little white root-like 

46 



DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL 

parts (mycelium) penetrate the cells or cover 
the surface, causing the plant to suffer because 
the green coloring matter is destroyed and the 
food supply is shut off. The only method of 




Fig. 10. — Rose Leaves Attacked by Downy Mildew 
A, Diseased leaf; B, a perfect leaf. 



control is to prevent these spores from germi- 
nating, and they should be checked before 
much damage is done. This check or control 
consists in covering the foliage with a liquid 

47 



HQUSE PLANTS 

(Bordeaux mixture) which coats the foliage 
with a thin layer of copper and prevents the 
germinating spore from penetrating the cell. 
Another control consists in dusting the foliage 




Fig. 17. — Sulphur and Sprayers 

Apparatus and material for the control of rose mildew. A, dust 

sprayer, $.50; B, flowers of sulphur; C, dust sprayer, $.25. 

with sulphur, which destroys the young fungi 
as soon as they start growth. 

There are many causes for disease, and these 
48 



DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL 



should be removed as far as possible. The 
amateur is sometimes overzealous in feeding 
the plant. These "plant banquets" cause 







« 




>< A -V 


^^■^^-*rfi< -W"^^ 




I L 


m rLi: 




r~ 




1 



Fig. 18. — Material and Equipment for Controlling Insects 

AND Disease 
For chewing insects and fungus diseases, three tablespoonfuls to a 

pail of water. 

loss of vitality and develop an abnormal 
growth of weak sickly shoots and foliage which 
is subject to an attack from disease. Over- 

49 



HOUSE PLANTS 

watering will sicken the roots and so the plant 
weakens. Drought is the other extreme that 
tends to cause the breaking up or shriveling of 
cells and opens the way for disease. An over- 
supply of moisture often tends to make the soil 
imjDure and sour. In this case shake off the 
old soil, prune back the top of the plant and 
cut away the diseased roots, repot in a mod- 
erately rich soil and control external conditions 
until the plant finally regains normal growth. 

An excess of heat is one of the greatest 
drawbacks, the plant becoming weak and ex- 
posed to disease. 

Gas and draught cause the breathing organs 
to weaken and the lungs of the plant in the 
leaf become clogged and diseased. 

Earthworms at the roots are a torment to 
the plant and may be controlled by placing the 
pot in water up to the surface of the soil. Keep 
adding water and the earthworm will be driven 
to the surface, where it may be caught and re- 
moved. Watering with lime water will also 
drive the worm out, but care must be exercised 

50 



DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL 

in the use of lime with certain plants. It is 
not a bad method to remove the entire ball of 
soil, locate the worm and remove it, for this 




Fig. 19. — Dust and Liquid Sprays and Sprayers 
A, powdered arsenate; B, dust sprayer; C, Paris green (for the control 
of chewing insects); D, Bordeaux mixture; E, liquid sprayer; 
F, lime sulphur (for control of fungus diseases). 

enemy of pot plants is often a forerunner of 
disease. 

Pots should be washed clean before using. 
It renders more easy the removal of the ball 

51 



HOUSE PLANTS 

when necessary and it is certainly more health- 
ful for the roots of the plant. 

There is often a flaw in the window glass, 
which causes a brown spot on the foliage. Do 
not mistake this for disease. Plants that have 
been in a shady place for some time may, if 
exposed suddenl}^ to intense sunlight, show 
brown around the edges of the leaves, and this 
may encourage disease but in itself it is not a 
disease. 

The various common diseases have been de- 
scribed under the culture of individual plants. 
Bordeaux mixture and flowers of sulphur may 
be secured at any flower shop or drugstore and 
should be kept on hand. For such diseases as 
the rose mildew^ the plants should be dusted 
with the sulphur every dull day, as it is a pre- 
ventive rather than a cure. 

Treat your plants as you would a child ; keep 
them clean, free from dust, and in giving them 
a bath do not have the water too cold nor allow 
the plant to stay wet for a long period. 

If you are in tune with your plants and your 
52 



DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL 

love for them is genuine, it will not be hard to 
detect any disorder that might appear, and the 
next thing to do is to search for knowledge of 
the disease in the many books written on the 
subject. 



CHAPTER IX 

INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 

There are two tj^pes of insects which infest 
our window gardens: the sucking class, which 
pierce the cells of the plant and suck the sap, 
weakening the vitality of the plant and finally 
destroying it; the other the chewing class, 
which eat part of the root, stem, leaf or flower. 

The sucking insects, like the aphides, are 
controlled by dusting their bodies with tobacco 
powder or dust. The particles fill up their 
breathing organs and cause suffocation. The 
nicotine in the dust also burns tender parts of 
the body and causes death. Fumigation by 
burning tobacco stems is our effective method 
of control in the conservatory or greenhouse, 
but it is unavailable in the home, for the entire 
house would become foul and the necessary 
smoke to destroy this pest would be too great 

54 



INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 



for the number of plants in the window. It 
should never be tried in the home. Another 
remedy is to spray with Black Leaf 40 as rec- 




1 



Fig. iiO. — Plant Lice or Green Fly (Aphides) on the Young 
Growing Stem of a Vinca Vine 

55 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ommended on the can or bottle. Care should 
be exercised not to get the solution on the wall- 
paper or furniture. Of the many insecti- 




FiG. 21. — Death to Green Aphides or Plant Lice 

cides on the market most will do all they claim. 

The scale insects are harder to control. The 

best remedy is fir-tree oil, which should stand 

overnight, then the cream or scum be taken off 

56 



INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 

and the solution diluted. A clean sponge is 
then used to anoint the plant and the insect is 
dislodged. Fish-oil soap has become a favor- 




FiG. 22. — The Common Scale Insect (Lecanium Hemisph^ricum) 
ON A Boston Fekn 

57 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ite because of the easy method of apphcation. 
Shave off bits of the soap and dissolve them 




Fig. 23. — Prepajrations for Spraying. A, Fish-Oil Soap; B, 

Rosin Fish-Oil Soap 

Both are good preparations to spray and wash foliage for scale 

insects, plant lice and mealy bugs. 

in boiHng" water, then dilute to make suds in 
a bath tub, laundry tub or bucket; then sub- 
merge the plant in the solution. 

58 



INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 

The soil should be held in the pot by the left 
hand, or by spreading the fingers of both hands 
over it, inverting the pot and washing the 




Fig. 24. — ^The White Fly (Aleyrodes Citri and A. Nubifera) 
ON A Fuchsia Leaf 

plant. After the plant has had a thorough 
bath, allow it to stand for two or three hours 
and then spray with clean water. This treat- 

59 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ment will control plant lice, mealy bug, red 
spider and white fly. 

The red spider, which is a common pest, 




Fig. '■23. — Sure Death to White Fly axd Aphides 
To control green aphides, two tablespoonfuls to a pail of water. 

especially on plants that have been allowed to 
get too dry, is best controlled by a solution of 
tobacco stems boiled until it is dark brown. 
Spray it with all the force available, directing 

60 



INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL 

the spray to the under side of the foliage. This 
is also an advisable treatment for thrips. 

If the enemy you are to combat is a chewing 
insect like the rose beetle, spray the plant with 
arsenate of lead as recommended under the 
head of individual plants in chapters to follow. 
The paste and powder forms of arsenate have 
been found of equal value. Paris green has 
been extensively used, but if combined with 
water or. even in the dust form it is apt to in- 
jure the foliage. Care must be taken in the 
application of any poison to plants. 

If insects attack your house plants the first 
thing to find out is how they secure their food ; 
then apply the proper remedy. Do not put it 
off until tomorrow, for one must remember 
that insects are in business for their health, 
and this means that the greatest vigilance must 
be exercised even where the plants appear 
fairly clean. 

The lack of water, too much water, too much 
food develop a weak, tender growth; bad air, 
too little sunlight and general neglect will in- 

61 



HOUSE PLANTS 

vite these insect enemies to infest the window 
garden and in a short time it becomes a sor- 
rowful sjffht. 




Fig. 26. — Mass of ME.\Ly Bug (Pseudococcus Citri .\nd P. 

LONGIFILIS) ON A CoLEUS PlANT 

These dreaded enemies of our choice fohage 
and flowering plants steal into our gardens in 
a single night. Keep a constant watch! 

62 



CHAPTER X 

GENERAL PRINCIPLES ANEK METHODS IN 
PROPAGATION 

Plants may be multiplied in various ways: 
seeds (pansies) ; spores (fungi, mosses and 
ferns) ; stem cuttings (geraniums) ; suckers 
(chrysanthemums) ; leaf cuttings (rex begonia 
and gloxinia) ; divisions (asparagus sprengeri 
plants) ; root cuttings (blackberry) ; budding 
(peach trees) ; grafting (apple trees). 

In the propagation of plants by seed flat 
boxes are generally used four inches deep and 
two feet square. The bottom of the box is cov- 
ered with decayed sod and then filled to within 
half an inch of the top with clean, sifted garden 
loam, free from manure. The seeds are scat- 
tered broadcast and pressed into the soil, then 
covered with clean sand to the depth of one- 
half to two-thirds the diameter of the seed, 

63 



HOUSE PLANTS 

watered carefully, covered with glass and put 
in a warm place. 

With both seed and cuttings regular and 




Fig. 27. — Interior of a Stem 

A, stem; B, hollow pith; C, thick growing tissue (cambium layer); 

D, cut through growing tissue; E, node. 



perpetual heat, which is not easy to secure in 
the home, but possible in the conservatory, is 
of great advantage. Shade the box with paper 



64 



METHODS IN PROPAGATION 

until the seeds germinate, to prevent drying 
off. Too much watering weakens vitahty. 
Never allow the seed to germinate and then 
dry out. Keep the seed bed always moist but 




Fig. 28. — A Sifting Pan, Flat, and Tamper for the Propagation 
OF Plants from Seed 



never wet. With rare exceptions it is not ad- 
visable to soak the seed overnight ; it should be 
planted in the dormant state in the soil. After 
the seedlings reach a height so that they can 
be easily handled transfer them to a small 
pot. 

65 



HOUSE PLANTS 

In the case of ferns I have known amateurs 
to propagate them successfully from spores. 
Fill a six-inch pot with finely sifted soil, cover 




Fiu. 29. — Double Propagating Pot 
A, drainage hole; B, crock to promote drainage; C, rough material; 
D, gravel; E, crock pot filled with water; F, clean sand; G, cutting; 
H, surface of soil; I, leaves cut in half to prevent transpiration 
(the pot in the center should be made of clay and plaster of Paris) ; 
N, cork filled with holes. 



the surface with sifted earth about a quarter of 
an inch in depth. Take a frond of fern having 
the brownish-black clusters on the under side, 

66 



METHODS IN PROPAGATION 

or in strips along the margin. If the clus- 
ters are ripe gently shake the frond, allowing 
the apparent powdery substance to be scat- 
tered over the soil. Press down lightly, cover 
with glass and place the pot in a vessel partly 
filled with water so that the seed may be wa- 
tered from below. Never allow the surface 
of the soil to get dry. Allow the pot to stand 
in the vessel only while watering. Remove 
to a warm shady place. The tiny ferns are 
extremely tender and difficult to start, but 
a trial at this method of propagation is fasci- 
nating. Stem cuttings are commonly used in 
the propagation of home-grown plants. 

It is of the greatest importance to have a 
sharp knife. Cuttings in general should not 
be over three to four inches in length. Cut 
smoothly at the node where the leaf connects 
with the stem, because the tissue is thicker at 
this point than at any other and there is also 
more growing tissue exposed. Remove the 
leaves with a knife ; never break them, for this 
will injure the stem. The top leaves should 

67 



HOUSE PLANTS 

be cut in half to prevent evaporation of mois- 
ture from them. 

Cuttings should always be made from young 




Fig. 30. — Home-made Propagation Bed 

Note black pan above the lamp to retain water which aids in keeping 

moisture in the soil. 

vigorous wood. In old wood the cells are hard- 
ened and roots seldom form. Place the cut- 
tings in clean sand, never pushing the cutting 
in the sand, as this will injure the wounded 

68 



METHODS IN PROPAGATION 

tissue and cause decay. Fit the sand tightly 
about the cutting and give a good watering. 




Fig. 31. — Propagation Bed CoMPLirrE 
Cloth or paper may be placed as shown in photograph in order to 
keep the heat in. Bottom heat is of the greatest importance for 
seed and propagating beds to insure a better growth. 

Shade the cuttings from the sun by cheese- 
cloth or newspapers for three to six days, so 

69 



HOUSE PLANTS 

that they do not lose vitahty from wilting. 
After the roots are formed remove to small 
pots of earth, because there is little or no food 
in the sand, and after the root system is formed 
the roots search for food and moisture which 
is found in the soil. 

All cuttings are not made alike. The sand 
in a cutting bed should always be firm, never 
allowed to dry out, moist but never wet. The 
pot method is also very satisfactory. Leaf cut- 
tings are commonly used to make plants like 
the begonia. Cuts should be made across vari- 
ous well-developed veins of the leaf, the leaf 
fitted, bottom side down, on the surface of the 
sand. It may be pinned down with hairpins 
or toothpicks. Small pieces of the leaf con- 
taining a vein, thick end planted in the soil, are 
also satisfactory. 

In the case of gloxinia the leaf is planted in 
the sand with the stem covered. Roots form 
on the stem and a young plant appears. 

I should not advise bell jars or glass dishes 
placed over the cuttings unless they are re- 

70 



METHODS IN PROPAGATION 

moved part of the day. The cuttings require 
clean air to breath and they thrive much better 
when this is suppHed. 

Sand is used in propagating cuttings be- 




FiG. 32. — A Propagating Bed 

cause it is practically free from fungus 
growths. 

The various plants described in the following 
pages have their favorite methods of propaga- 
tion as indicated below^: 



SEED 

Chinese primrose. 
Abutillon. 



CUTTINGS 

Geraniums. 
Flowering begonias. 



71 



HOUSE PLANTS 



Cineraria. 
Cyclamen. 
Petunia. 
Lobelia. 
Flowering begonia. 



1 



CUTTINGS 

Chrysanthemums. 

Carnations. 

Fuchsias. 

Heliotrope. 

Pelargonium. 

Rose. 

Stevia. 

Vinca. 

English ivy. 



LEAF CUTTINGS 

Gloxinia. 

Rex begonia. 

Lilac. 

Rose — not practical. 

PLANTS PROPAGATED BY DIVIDING THE OLD PLANT, LEAV- 
ING ROOTS ON BOTH DIVISIONS 



Boston fern. 
Vinca. 
Saxifraga. 

Asparagus sprangeri. 
Asparagus plumosus. 



CHAPTER XI 

BULB CULTURE 

September is the month when song gives 
place to silence and the moon of the first frost 
awakens a desire to renew the summer, and 
there is nothing that will satisfy this longing 
so well as the branch of gardening which is 
peculiar to itself, the forcing of bulbs. 

To get perfection in the bloom of most of 
our common bulbs they should be secured in 
September. Of course the time for blooming 
depends on various conditions — variety of 
bulbs, vigor, soil used, method of handling, 
temperature and watering — but the following 
directions may be considered as general. 

It is always advisable to use very rich soil 
but never with fresh manure. After placing a 
bit of crock over the hole in the bottom of the 
pot and an inch of well-rotted cow manure, 

73 



HOUSE PLANTS 

then some good compost soil, place the bulb 
the proper depth in a little sand, cover with soil 
and firm by striking the bottom of the pot on 




Fig. 33. — Diagram Showing How to Pot and Pit Bulbs 
A, three inches of coarse ashes; B, pots containing bulbs; C, scattering 
of straw over pots; D, sand; E, straw or leaves; F, brush to prevent 
straw from blowing away; S, surface of soil. 

some object. Then store away in a cool place 
until a good root system has been developed. 
It is sometimes well to store out of doors. Dig 
a trench in the garden, place the pots below the 

74 



BULB CULTURE 

frost line, with about an inch of ashes beneath 
the pot. The soil in the pot should be moist 
but not wet. Cover the pots four to five inches 




Fig. 34. — Tapping Edge of Pot in Order to Remove Soil from Pot 



with sand and above this, straw. Put branches 
loosely over the straw to prevent it from blow- 
ing away. After the given period the pots may 

75 



HOUSE PLANTS 

be easily removed. Do not allow bulbs or soil 
in pots to freeze while removing, as it would 
be a serious check to growth. Another method 




Fig. 35. — Position of Hand over Soil in Order not to Disturb 
THE Root System 

is to clean out the hotbed and treat it as in 
previous method. Some use ashes to cover the 
pots. 

76 



BULB CULTURE 

Another method is to place the bulbs in a 
cool cellar and cover with soil or straw, but in 




Fig. 36. — A Beautifully Developed Root System 
Healthy and vigorous. Note the position of the hand while examin- 
ing the roots. 

this case the soil should be examined and if dry 
given sufficient water. Never store near a fur- 

77 



HOUSE PLANTS 

nace or where there is any gas. Pots should 
always be placed on soil and never on a shelf, 




Fro. 37. — Method of Restoring the Ball 

Place the pot completely over the ball of earth and roots before 

inverting the plant right side up. 

to develop root systems. INIost of the Dutch 
bulbs require from six to seven weeks in the 
dark in order to develop a sufficient root sys- 

78 



BULB CULTURE 

tern to support a perfect flower. After 
a given period examine the root system by 
knocking out the ball of earth (Fig. 34) , hold- 
ing the hand over the surface of the soil (Fig. 
35), and with the other hold the pot, striking 
the edge of the pot on some object. If the root 
system is well developed (Fig. 36) and the 
tips of the leaves are poking through the soil, 
place the pot over the roots without moving 
the ball (Fig. 37), and then turn right side 
up. Bring the bulb to light, feed and care for 
it, stirring the soil over the surface of the pot 
if a green moss appears. Never allow the pot 
to stand in a vessel containing water, or the 
roots will decay and the bulb rot. 

The bulbs placed in trenches require only 
one watering when placed. No other treat- 
ment is necessary until removed to the light. 

When bulbs are raised in water, such as the 
Chinese lily, which is always acceptable in a 
home, take care never to have an excess of heat 
or dry air. This type of plant does best where 
there is a great deal of moisture in the air. 

79 




Fig. 38. — Hy.\cinth with a Well Developed Root System 

Note growth of flower .stem even with tips of leaves. In three weeks 

the flower will be two to three inches above the leaves. 



80 



BULB CULTURE 

Bulbs should never be placed in a draft or 
in a room where there is any gas, or the flower 
will bloom close to the soil and snug to the 
short leaves. Especially be careful when the 
bulb is in bloom, for the flower is injured by 
gas or direct rays of the sun. To have the 
bloom last keep it in a cool place. If the bloom 
comes sooner than desired store in a dark cool 
room, 40° F., and change to higher tempera- 
tures gradually. 

The only insect of great danger to the plant 
is the plant louse (aphis) destroyed by dusting 
with Pyrethrum or tobacco dust. 

It is never advisable to hold the bulbs over 
for another year of house culture. They may 
be planted in the garden, but for forcing, fresh 
vigorous bulbs should be secured each year. 

HYACINTH 

Nat. Ord. Lilacece 

The origin of this flower is supposed to date back to 
the fabulists of antiquit}-. Hyacinthus, a boy favored 

81 



HOUSE PLANTS 

by the gods, was supposed to be the son of a Spartan 
king and a great favorite of Apollo, who while pitching 
a game of quoits first observed Zephyrus' envy. This 
envious spirit directed one of the quoits, which struck 
the head of Hyacinthus and killed him. It was con- 
cluded that Apollo transformed the body of his favorite 
into a flower, and so the origin of hyacinths. 

This flower is native to the Mediterranean region. It 
was known back in the time of Vespasian and mentioned 
by Dioscorides. It was introduced into England about 
1596. There are more than four thousand varieties de- 
veloped since 1629. Its rich fragrance, varied color and 
graceful beauty lends a charm to the home or conserva- 
tory. 

The best results are realized where the fol- 
lowing" soil table is followed : 

Decayed sod chopped fine with garden loam. .21/^ parts 

Shredded cow manure 1 part 

Sand 1/^ part 

Place a little cow manure, well decayed, in 
the bottom of the pot and then sand directly 
under the bulb. 

One to three bulbs may be placed in a six- 
inch pot. A ten-inch pan-shaped pot with six 
bulbs gives great satisfaction. 

82 



BULB CULTURE 

Keep the soil moist, but never wet, and after 
the leaves are well developed give a little weak 
liquid cow manure every two weeks or about 




Fig. 39. — Several Well Developed Hlooms of the IIyaclnth 

IN A Pan 

A strong root system must be developed while in storage in order to 

get such results in this limited amount of soil. 

half a spoonful of nitrate of soda dissolved in 
a cup of water. The bulb should be placed one 
and a half inches below the surface, then stored 

83 




Fig. 40. — Three Well Developed Hyacinths in a Three- 
Quarter-Sized Pot 



84i 



BULB CULTURE 



for from six to eight weeks in order to develop 
the best root system. 

On bringing the bulb to light the tempera- 
ture should be about 50°, slowly rising to 65°. 




Fig. 41. — A Hyacinth Bulb with a Well Developed Root 

System in a Bulb Jar 

Note that bud has not started. 

85 



HOUSE PLANTS 



11 



With this treatment the bulb should produce 
a fine bloom ten to twelve weeks after remov- 
ing to the light. 




Fig. 42. — Hyacinth Which Has Been Given too Much Water 

AND Food 

Note the weakened condition of the foliage. 

Hyacinths maj^ also be raised in a glass bulb 
jar. The color of this jar does not affect the 

86 



BULB CULTURE 

growth of the roots. Keep the jar in a dark 
place for a week and bring to the Hght. 

Keep the water in touch with the bulb and 
do not change the water in the jar. The tiny 
green growths appearing in the water die, de- 
cay, and become food for the plant. Raise the 
bulb slightly, just enough to admit sufficient 
Croton water so that the bulb rests in it. 
Never use spring water. 

There are many satisfactory varieties, but 
the following may aid in selection : 

For the glass jar varieties developed in water: 

Ball of Gold golden 

Gertrude pink 

Grand Martre bright blue 

L'Innoeence white 

Roi des Beiges red 

Rosea Maxima pink 

Varieties for window decorations in pots and pans: 

Gertrude deep pink 

Grande Blanche pure white 

L'Innoeence pure white 

Marie dark blue 

Regulus light rose pink 

Mareno light blue 

87 



HOUSE PLANTS 

King of the Blues bright blue 

Charles Dickens light pink 

La Grandesse fine pure white 

TULIP 

This beautiful flower derived its name from the Persian 
word, Thoulyhan, a turban ; and is not unlike the eastern 
headdress. 

The Due Van Thol, of which the type is Tulipa 
suaveoleus, from the Latin suavis, sweet, is the best for 
cultivation, being early and easy to raise. 

The tulip was introduced into England from the south 
of Europe about l603 and has always been the subject of 
some of the most delightful folklore and myths. 

The best display of these flowers is shown 
when six to eight bulbs are grown in a flat 
eight-inch pot four inches deep. 

Place about an inch of well-decayed horse or 
cow manure in the bottom of the pot, then add 
some rich garden loam, mixed with finely 
chopped decayed sod. 

Soil and sod 2^/2 parts 

Manure 1 part 

Cocoa fiber 1/4 P^'*^ 

Sand 1/4 P^J^t 

88 



BULB CULTURE 

Place the bulbs a fourth of an inch below the 
surface, each bulb having a little clean sand at 




Fig. 43.— Tulips 
Note the tall erect stems, an indication of a strong root system. 



the base. The pans or pots should then be 
stored in a cool dark place for five or six weeks. 

89 



HOUSE PLANTS 

After exposing to the light give the same treat- 
ment as for hyacinths. 

The blooms should be at their height from 
five to six weeks after exposure to the light. 
The bloom will last much longer if not ex- 
posed to direct sunlight. The plant should 
always be protected from draught and never 
allowed to dry, especially after blooming. 

The tulip is very susceptible to plant lice 
(aphides) but these may be controlled by keep- 
ing a close watch, and when the pest appears, 
apply tobacco dust or wash the leaves carefully 
with a soft sponge and a solution of nicotine 
water in the proportions advised on the pack- 
age secured from any seed house or florist. 
There is no danger of the tobacco dust injur- 
ing the soil when washed from the leaves. It 
acts as a fertilizer. 

The best varieties for pan culture are: 

Belle Alliance (Waterloo) — scarlet. 
Chrysalora — yellow. 
Due Van Thol — various colors, early. 
Duchess de Parma — red and yellow band. 

90 



BULB CULTURE 

NARCISSUS 
Nat. Ord. Amaryllidaceae 

The Greek word, Narke, from which the flower really 
takes its name, signifies narcotic, and the dreaded Dis 
and the Furies had this flower woven to decorate their 
brows. The flower was the last token put upon the 
dead, because the Greeks thought that the dead gave off 
an evil emanation, producing dullness, madness and 
death. 

The flower is supposed to have been originated by the 
fate of Narkissas, a beautiful youth who bound Echo's 
heart in love to his, but did not love her in return. She 
became broken-hearted and faded to a voice, which was 
heard in lonely places. 

Narkissas while lurking lazily about a spring caught 
sight of his own reflection in the water. He loved it and 
being lured day after day to admire himself he soon 
grew weak, not even taking time to eat or drink. Final- 
ly he died admiring himself and when the nymphs 
came to remove the body to the funeral pyre, it had 
changed into a white flower, which we call the poet's 
narcissus. 

It was a favorite among the Greek gods. It is said 
that Pluto in a crafty manner enticed Proserpine into 
hell with its beauty and delicate fragrance, which dulled 
and drowsed her senses. 

Many interesting myths are woven about this flower. 

91 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The narcissus used so much as a cut flower 
is seldom raised as a pot plant but there are 




Fig. 44. — A Beautiful Group of Double Narcissus 

few home-grown bulbs that will last so long or 
give as much satisfaction. 

The soil should be tolerably rich and a simi- 
92 



BULB CULTURE 

lar treatment to that of the hyacinth will bring 
results in about the same time required to 
develop that bloom, depending much on the 
size and vigor of the bulb. 

Another method has lately been developed 
with grea-t satisfaction. Place the bulbs in 
loose soil or cocoa fiber until the roots are about 
an inch or more in length, then remove care- 
fully without injuring the roots. Place in a 
bowl at least two inches deep. Fit pebbles 
about the roots over the top of the bulb, then 
fill with Croton water and cover or mound the 
bowl with moss. The bulbs will develop leaves 
and flowers and this arrangement makes a very 
attractive centerpiece. 

If plant lice are present they will sometimes 
attack the tender leaves. Dust with tobacco 
powder or Pyrethrum. 

Do not allow the flower to come in contact 
with any gas, or the petals will curl and turn 
brown. 

If the bud shows a tendency to turn brown 
before developing, the soil may be too poor to 

93 



HOUSE PLANTS 

supply sufficient nourishment; there may have 
been some condition that destroyed the roots, 
or the plant may have been exposed to a cold 
draug-ht or gas. The last condition shows in 
the tips of the leaves turning brown. 

A little weak liquid cow manure should be 
added during the growing season to the soil. 
Stir the surface of the soil shortly after ap- 
2:)lication. This treatment will add to the lus- 
ter of the foliage and the size and color of the 
flower. 

Varieties for winter culture in pots and 
pans: 

Single : 

Trumpet Major — yellow. 

Triumph Minor — yellow trumpet and white perianth. 

Obvallaris (Tendy Daffodil) — rich yellow. 

Poeticus Ornatus — white. 
Double: 

Incomparable — yellow and orange. 

Pseudo Plenus — yellow and white. 

Von Sion — all j'ellow. 

The best double white is Alba plena odorata. 



BULB CULTURE 

EASTER LILY 

Nat. Ord. Liliaceoe 

The Easter lily has derived its name from the Celtic 
word le, meaning whiteness. In religious beliefs as well 
as myth and folklore the lily has taken a prominent place. 

Its purity made it a fitting flower to decorate the 
altars of the Virgin, and when she ascended her tomb 
was filled with lilies and roses. 

In the Garden of Gethsemane the lily held its head 
high as Christ passed, but on seeing all the other flow- 
ers bowing their heads in sympathy with him, it was 
overcome with grief and shame and has never lifted its 
head since. 

The Greeks and Romans placed a wreath of lilies and 
wheat as a crown on the heads of a bride and groom, 
symbolizing purity and fertility. 

The lily is symbolic of good fortune and a protection 
from evil spirits. 

Judith decorated herself with lilies when she went to 
destroy Holofernes, in order to keep away the evil spirit 
that prompted or guided. From the early periods until 
now the lily has been a general favorite. 

We always associate this flower of purest 
white, waxen texture and delicate fragrance 
with the Eastertide. It is ornamental for both 
home and church. 

95 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Secure strong healthy home-grown bulbs 
about the last of November. Place three or 
four in an eight-inch pot filled with a very rich, 




Fig. 45. — Easter Lilt 

light sandy loam, mixing about one-third the 
bulk of well-decayed cow manure shredded fine. 
Cover the bulbs about one inch with a little 
clean sand. Give one watering and plunge the 
pots in ashes, covering with leaves or straw to 

96 



BULB CULTURE 

prevent the frost from injuring them. After 
six weeks bring to the hght but keep in a cool 
place, gradually increase the heat to 65° or 75° 
and in ten to twelve weeks after removing from 
the pot the flower will be developed to perfec- 
tion. 

After the plant is about half grown apply a 
little liquid cow manure every two weeks until 
the buds are well developed. 

If the bulbs are kept cool, moist and away 
from air while in storage, and the temperature 
is controlled, never having the plant in exces- 
sive heat, these plants will develop a vefy sat- 
isfactory bloom. For Christmas blooming 
start the bulbs in September. 

The Lilium longiflorum has become a gen- 
eral favorite, not being as subject to disease as 
the Lilium harrisii. The flower is more endur- 
ing, but a temperature at least 10° lower will 
be better than the temperature for the harrisii. 

The Bermuda-grown bulbs are preferable to 
the Dutch-grown. 

The onlj^ insect that troubles it is the aphis. 
97 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Dust with powdered tobacco or Pyrethrum. 

If bulbs are to be retained, withhold water 
for two weeks and store in cool, sheltered place. 

Put bulbs in clean sand and cover with soil 
and then with four inches of dry leaves. In 
winter cover with ashes. 

It is economy to secure new bulbs each year 
for forcing ; the old ones should be planted out 
of doors. 

After the forced plants are well started 
never allow them to dry out or to stand in a 
vessel filled with water, as the roots are very 
sensitive to both extremes. 

The following, though not known as Easter 
lilies, are treated in the same manner and are 
very satisfactory house plants : 

Lilium speciosum rubrum or roseum (Japan) — deli- 
cate pink, almost white, spotted red. Grows about three 
feet tall. Four to five flowers to the stalk. 

Lilium auratum vittatum has a magnificent flower, 
large white center band of deep pink and tlie entire petal 
spotted with crimson. This flower is delightfully fra- 
grant. A single stem produces on an average from eight 
to fifteen flowers. 

98 



BULB CULTURE 



CALLA LILY (EGYPTIAN OR ARUM LILY, 
LILY OF THE NILE) 

Nat. Ord. Aroidece Richardia ethiopica (synonym R. 
africand) 

Pliny was the first one to call this attractive member 
of the Arum family calla. 

Its native home is along the banks of the Nile, and 
its glossy green leaves and waxy white blooms abound 
during the season of high water. After the Nile slowly 
resumes its original bed, the mud-coated banks become 
parched and the tops of the calla die down, fall over and 
protect the roots against the burning rays of the tropical 
sun. In this temporary bed of the river Nature rests the 
bulbs for several months until the spring freshets again 
awaken them to new life. 

The large glossy green leaves gracefully 
arranged on their long stalks and the waxy 
white blossom make the calla one of the favor- 
ites among the common house plants. 

In order to get the best results for winter 
blooming, place the larger bulb in a six-inch 
pot, a little well-rotted manure at the bottom 
of the pot. Mix some finely shredded cow ma- 

99 



HOUSE PLANTS 

nure in garden loam containing well-rotted 
sod. 

Place the bulb one and one-half inches below 




Fig. 46. — Lily of the Nile, Calla 

the surface and firm the soil by striking the 
bottom of the pot against the potting table 
three or four times. 

It is not advisable to plant more than three 
corms in an eight-inch pot, which should give 

100 



BULB CULTURE 

several blooms each. All offsets should be re- 
moved as they appear, as they sap the vitality 
of the parent plant and prevent the best re- 
sults in the number and size of blooms. The 
offsets may be planted in small jjots and devel- 
oped. 

If possible during the growing season give 
a little weak liquid manure water every week; 
this will add to the luster of the foliage, size of 
the flower and general vigor of the plant. Do 
not plant small bulbs in large pots filled with 
richly manured soil or no leaf and flower will 
develop. 

The calla lily, being a native water plant, re- 
quires a great amount of water, but do not al- 
low the pot to stand in a jardiniere partly 
filled with water, as this will rot the roots and 
sour the soil. It also requires warmth, and the 
slightest chill or cold draught will give it a 
setback; the leaves will turn yellow and sickly. 
An occasional sprinkling and washing of the 
leaves with a soft sponge to keep them free 
from dust is of the greatest importance, but 

101 



HOUSE PLANTS 

never put the plants out in the cold rains for 
this purpose. 

The calla may be kept growing all the year 
round and for several years in the same soil, 
but the best results are obtained by giving the 
bulb a complete rest. Turn the pot on its side 
in some shady place where water will not 
stimulate growth, and allow the roots to dry 
off during the summer. 

If the plants are treated in this manner in 
June and repotted the middle of September to 
the first of October the bloom will appear the 
last of December or the middle of January, 
depending on the vigor of the bulb, watering, 
warmth and general treatment. 

If the bulb starts to decay it is best to dis- 
pose of it and not to use the same soil in which 
decay appeared. There is practically no dis- 
ease that attacks the calla. 

The only insects that attack this plant are 
the aphides, which are usually found on the 
young growing leaf before it has unfolded, also 
on the under side of the older leaves; and the 

102 



BULB CULTURE 

white flies, which are found mostly on the un- 
der side of the leaves. To control the aphis 
dust with Pyrethrum as soon as the lice appear. 
Wash with fish-oil soap or tobacco water 
extracts. Dust with snuff or tobacco dust. 
For the white fly wash the under side of the 
leaves with Hughes' fir-tree oil or suds of fish- 
oil soap, using a soft sponge free from any 
grit. Place the palm of the hand on the upper 
surface of the leaf and wash from the midrib 
of leaf to the outer edge. 

Varieties : 

Albomaculata — spotted foliage. 

Hastata — yellow calla. 

Elliottiana — yellow calla, large flower. 

Black calla. 

Godfrey — dwarf, everblooming. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY 

Nat. Ord. LiUacece 

The lily of the valley is also called convallaria, from 
the Latin convallis, a valley, and rica, a mantle, in ref- 
erence to the dense covering formed by the leaves. 

Gerarde was one of the first to describe this flower 

103 



HOUSE PLANTS 

in 1596 and since then it has grown in favor. In New 
York City the florists use $50,000 worth of this fragrant 
little flower for decorative purposes alone each year. 

This graceful drooping flower has increased 
in favor since 1596, and may now be grown in 
pots and boxes in the home. The pips or 
corms should be taken up late in the fall and 
allowed to stand from one to two weeks in a 
cool place to ripen. The best success is reached 
where the pips or corms are planted six inches 
deep in a box, on the bottom of which is spread 
an inch of sphagnum moss and then two inches 
of garden loam and sand in equal proportions. 
Place the pips and cover with one inch of same 
soil. Keep the box in a cool place for at least 
four weeks, giving it water when necessarj^ 
gradually bringing the plants into a heat of 
70°, and cover the sides and top with cheese- 
cloth. Place the box where it may receive a 
little bottom heat, keep the soil moist and after 
the stems are four inches high and the buds 
appear, remove the cheesecloth and allow the 
plant a little light, which will gradually darken 

104 



BULB CULTURE 

and strengthen the leaves. Guard against too 
much light at first. If the pips are planted 
every three weeks a succession of blooms will 
last until spring. The delicate fragrance, and 
graceful bell-shaped flower surrounded by 
broad green leaves make the lily of the valley 
a desirable pot plant as well as a box plant. It 
is difficult to find the proper conditions in the 
home for the best success of this flower, so it is 
generally advised to raise it in conservatories 
or greenhouses. 

CYCLAMEN 

Nat. Ord. Primulacece 

The name is derived from hyhlos, meaning circular, 
which refers to the shape of the leaves. 

The Cyclamen persicum is a native of Persia and is 
noted for its acridity. In Sicily the cyclamen is the 
principal food of the wild boar; hence the name "sow- 
bread" was given to it. This is contradicted by Pliny, 
who states that sow-bread was poisonous to swine. How- 
ever this may be, the flower with beautifully marked 
foliage has long been a favorite, for we find beautiful 
illustrations made in l6l2. 

105 



HOUSE PLANTS 

There are few flowers as pleasing" or attrac- 
tive for the window or conservatory as the 
cyclamen. 




Fig. 47. — The Cyclamen 

The flowers have no commercial value, but 
when produced in jx)ts they are satisfactory 
for both bloom and foliage. 

106 



BULB CULTURE 

It is advisable to secure well-developed bulbs 
from the seedsman or florist. Insist on bulbs 
grown from seeds. These are planted in Feb- 
ruary or March and if properly grown will be 
an inch in diameter by September. The soil 
should consist of 

Garden loam 1 part 

Leaf mold 1 part 

Well-rotted cow or horse manure 1 part 

Coarse sand 1 part 

All of these should be thoroughly incorpo- 
rated in a five-inch pot. The bulb should be 
pressed into the soil about half its depth and 
kept in about 50° of heat, preferabl}^ a shady 
place. As the plant increases in growth raise 
the heat to 60 "^ and give more light but never 
allow the direct rays of the sun to come in 
contact with the plants. They should never 
be allowed to dr}^ out, but do not give an ex- 
cess of water at any time. During the flower- 
ing season, which should be from the middle 
of December until the last of ^larch, to 
increase the number and size of the bloom the 

107 



HOUSE PLANTS 

plants are treated with a little liquid manure 
every week, or a half-teaspoonf ul of nitrate of 
soda in a cup of water about once in three 
weeks. 

After the flowering season is over the bulbs 
should be gradually ripened by placing them 
in the shade, never allowing them to dry com- 
pletely out. If the bulb keeps plump, even 
though the leaves die, it will be in good condi- 
tion to repot in September. If fleshy roots 
have made their apj^earance, be careful not to 
destroy them in repotting the bulb. The flow- 
ers are smaller and earlier on the old bulb, and 
it is advisable to secure new bulbs about an 
inch in diameter each year. 

The only real enemj^ of the cyclamen is the 
thrijDS, which is easily controlled by spraying 
forcibly with cold water on the under side of 
the leaves. Add a little nicotine (Black Leaf 
40), which will also destroy aphides, should 
any be there. If the plants are kept growing 
vigorously they are seldom attacked by insects. 

This plant is resistant to all diseases, but the 
108 



BULB CULTURE 

roots and bulb will decay quickly if given too 
much water. 

The Cyclamen persicus is the best varietj^ 
for home use. There are many varieties now 
on the market, most of which are good. 

FREESIA 
Nat. Or (I. Iridacece 

This fragrant bulbous plant was introduced from Cape 
of Good Hope about 1815. 

The loose clusters of the flower gracefully arranged on 
a slender stalk overtopping the foliage^ giving to the 
surrounding air the most agreeable odor, make this flower 
a favorite. 

The derivation of the name is not known. 

The soil should be light garden loam, rich 
in pulverized cow or sheep manure, well de- 
cayed. 

There are six to twenty-five bulbs in a clus- 
ter. These may be placed one-half inch 
apart, and a half-inch below the surface, in 
pots or pans of desired size. 

It is not necessary to give a starting period 
109 



HOUSE PLANTS 

in darkness, as the roots and tops should grow 
at the same time. Keep the soil moist but 
never wet, and if it is rich no feeding will be 
necessary. 

Keep from draughts and excessive heat; a 
temperature of 50° is best to start the bulbs. 

It requires about sixteen weeks from plant- 
ing to time of bloom. After the bloom has 
passed the pips or bulbs may be shaken out, 
tops dried, and stored in a little dry sand, 
mixed with soil free from manure, in a cool, 
dark cellar. The bulbs may be used with suc- 
cess the following season. There are no in- 
sects or diseases that trouble these plants. 

Varieties : 

Bermuda Freesia — pure white. 

California Freesia — white flowers with a yellow throat; 
very fragrant. 

Leichtlini. If grown outside the flower is white, some- 
times with a greenish tint, and if grown inside a soft 
yellow with a purplish tint. 

Refracta alba — pure white, with two orange-yellow 
flowers on the lower segments. Sometimes these blotches 
are very faint. This» variety is best adapted for home 
culture. 

110 



I 



BULB CULTURE 

AMARYLLIS 
Nat. Ord. Amaryllidaceae 

The Amaryllis belladonna or, as sometimes called, the 
belladonna lily, is a native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
It is found in several of the countries of Europe such as 
Portugal and Italy and has become naturalized. 

The shepherdess, Amaryllis, was strong and graceful 
and the beautiful color of her skin made her famous. 




Fig. 48. — Amaryllis Fokmosissima 
111 



HOUSE PLANTS 

This flower derived its name from this beautiful girl 
mentioned by Virgil. 

The amaryllis is greatly admired, first, be- 
cause of its gorgeous color, and second, be- 
cause it is rarely grown in this countr5\ 

The Amaryllis belladonna is best grown in 
a seven-inch pot filled with sandy loam, two 
and one-half parts; decayed cow manure, one 
and one-half parts; well mixed. If the soil is 
not sandy, add a little sand, but never use fresh 
manure. 

Place a little clean sand in the center of the 
pot on the surface of the soil and press the 
bulb in about one-third of its depth. The soil 
should be loose when this is done, so as not to 
injure the bottom of the bulb. 

Keep in a temperature of about 50° for 
three or four weeks, and gradually bring up 
to 75°. Increase gradually the supply of 
water as the leaves develop, but never allow 
the pot to stand in a vessel containing water. 
If the bulbs are planted by July first, they 
will give a satisfactory bloom in September or 

112 



BULB CULTURE 

October. A succession of blooms may be real- 
ized if these bulbs are planted every month, 
allowing from three to four months for de- 
velopment. 

There is a general complaint that the plants 
do not bloom every year, and that the leaves 
are short and the outer ones turn yellow before 
the flower bud shows ; the bud seldom develops 
under this condition. The trouble probably is 
that the bulb has not rested. It is necessary to 
give the bulb two or more months' rest in a 
cool, shady place, never allowing the bulb to 
become shriveled from drought. After a com- 
plete rest, repot as directed. The flower comes 
to perfection if placed in a warm spot where 
there is plenty of moisture, with an applica- 
tion of weak liquid manure every two weeks 
after the leaves are well developed. 

The amateur will find the best satisfaction 
from buying well-developed bulbs, rather than 
attempting to develop them from seed or off- 
sets. 

Varieties : 

113 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The old-fashioned variety is the Amaryllis belladonna 
— bright pink. 

The Formosissima, crimson, is also a favorite. 

Pallida was formerly called belladonna minor, bearing 
a long spike, small pale flowers. 

Hybrids of vittata, flowers striped and flaked. 

Johnsoni — very large, crimson, striped with white. 

VALLOTO 

Nat. Ord. Amaryllidacece 

The valloto or Scarborough lily was named in honor 
of Pierre Vallot, a noted French botanist. It was in- 
troduced into cultivation in 1774 from Cape of Good 
Hope. 

The Scarborough lily is a desirable bulbous 
plant for early fall flowering. Being a native 
of boggy places, the bulb should be planted in 
two parts light garden loam containing one- 
half decayed sod, one part muck soil, and one 
part decayed shredded cow manure. A little 
sharp sand sifted through the soil will tend to 
lighten it. 

A large bulb would require a five-inch pot, 
or three to five bulbs may be planted in a ten- 

114 



BULB CULTURE 

inch pot, the soil barely covering the crown of 
the bulb. Put the pot in a moist place, tem- 
perature 60°, until the flowering shoots ap- 
pear. Then bring the pot into the direct 
sunlight and give a liberal supply of water. 

After the bloom has passed the bulb should 
rest at least three months, water being withheld 
except for three or four light applications dur- 
ing the resting period. The pot should be put 
in a cool place protected from frost. Do not 
repot each year, as the bulb does better if not 
shifted often. If the bulbs are started in June 
the plant should be in full bloom the latter part 
of August. 

The valloto increases rapidly from offsets, 
and these should be removed by picking the 
young bulbs from the surface of the soil with- 
out disturbing the old bulbs. The offsets, if 
planted in the garden, will bloom the second 
season. The flower spikes support from five to 
seven flowers each, and this makes a beautiful 
display where there are five or eight bulbs in a 
ten-inch pot. If the bulbs are planted out in 

115 



HOUSE PLANTS 

April, they will bloom in June. They should 
be removed after the first light frost. When- 
ever the plants become pot-bound, shift to a 
larger pot, and never allow the soil to dry out 
during the growing season, especially after the 
flower buds appear. 

The Valloto purpurea produces a brilliant 
scarlet blossom and is a common pot plant for 
porch decoration in August. 

OXALIS 

Nat. Orel. Geraniacece 

The name "oxalis" is derived from orys, meaning acid. 
The leaves and flower stems have an acid taste. 

The Oxalis floribunda was introduced from Brazil in 
1 829, while Oxalis bowiei is from the Cape of Good Hope 
and was introduced in 1821. 

All of the species now under cultivation have come 
from either Cape of Good Hope or South America. 

The oxalis is an attractive pot or basket 
plant, flowering from midwinter until spring. 
Practically free from insects and disease, it is 
most desirable for home culture. 

116 



BULB CULTURE 

The bulbs or tubers, according to the variety, 
should be placed in a cool, shady spot during 
the summer and given a complete rest. About 
October first, take the bulbs out and repot in a 
rich garden loam. They should bloom from 
the middle of December until the last of April. 
If a basket is used, line it with moss and fill it 
with very rich garden loam containing a large 
percentage of chopped decayed sod. Place 
four to five roots just below the surface and 
expose to the sun. Never allow drying out. 
The leaves turn yellow quickly if exposed to 
gas. 

The rosea is a profuse bloomer; the flowers 
are a bright pink, borne in clusters of a dozen 
or more on long stems. The stems are erect, 
and the flowers star-shaped, the foliage a soft 
green and the nature of the leaf spreading. 
When used in a basket, it develops a drooping 
nature. 

The floribunda is a most satisfactory variety. 
Add a little sand to the rich garden loam, and 
protect from any possible chill during the win- 

117 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ter. Being a native of Brazil, it requires heat. 
There are two varieties of this species, one be- 
ing a bright pink and the other pure white. 

Of the bulbous species, bowiei is decidedly 
the most satisfactory. The flowers are a bril- 
liant rose color and the j)lant blooms profusely 
during the winter months. 

There are many varieties, both tender and 
hardy, that are now under cultivation, and all 
alike are of easy culture. 

Give plenty of food, sunshine, and water, 
but never allow drought, gas or chill to check 
the growth. 



CHAPTER XII 

FLOWERING PLANTS FOR THE WINDOW 
GARDEN 

GERANIUM (CRANE'S BILL) 

Nat. Ord. Geraniacece 

From the term geranos, a crane ; referring to the beak- 
like torus, or projection beyond the seeds. 

In almost every farmhouse and in many of 
the city homes, the geranium is the favorite, 
because it succeeds in favorable and unfavor- 
able conditions. 

The geranium is propagated mostly by cut- 
tings. If placed in clean sand, and even in soil, 
it will strike root in froni two to three weeks. 
Do not transplant to a large pot at first, but 
make several shifts until a five- or six-inch pot 
is reached. 

It grows best in a rich garden loam or soil 
119 



HOUSE PLANTS 

from the compost heap. Keep the roots moist, 
and the more sunshine the better. Do not 




Fig. 49. — Alphonse Riccard 

Bright scarlet, double. It is better to pick off the bloom until the 

plant is well shaped. 

crowd the plant, for this will make it spindling 
and unsightly. It can stand sudden tempera- 
ture changes, but from 65° to 70° in the day- 
time is best, and cooler in the evening, but 
never below 40°. 

120 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

An occasional spraying with tepid water 
will keep the foliage bright and green and pre- 
vent dust from lodging in tlie various parts of 
the leaf. 




Fig. 50 — :B'eaute: Potevine 
Salmon pink. A well shaped pot plant. 



As soon as the bloom in a cluster begins to 
pass, pick off near the stem, and never allow 
seed to form. 

121 



HOUSE PLANTS 

There are few insects or diseases that attack 

the geranium if it is kept vigorously growing. 

There are over five hundred different gera- 




FiG. 51. — A Good Bloom but a Poorly Shaped Plant 
Pot small and not sufficient food or sunlight. 

niums now on the market, and it is difficult to 
advise anyone about varieties, as they are 
nearly all satisfactory. The following have 
been found a good assortment: 

122 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

Alphonse Riccard — bright scarlet, double. 
Beaute Potevine — salmon pink, double. 
La Favorite — pure white, double. 
S. A. Nutt — rich crimson, double. 




Fig. 52. — A Bed of Geranium Planted Out after Storing in a 

Cellar over the Winter 

These plants were covered with a bright green foliage by the last of 

June and were in full flower by August first. 



Mary Pelton — soft salmon, single. 

Richelieu — scarlet orange and maroon, double. 

Ivy-leaved geraniums are very satisfactory for hang- 
ing baskets or to tie to various-shaped supports. The 
flowers are delicate in color and a fair size. Achieve- 

123 



HOUSE PLANTS 

merit — salmon rose. Leopard — pink, blotched with car- 
mine, very satisfactory. 

Scented-leaf varieties — foliage sometimes used to fla- 
vor apple jelly, the leaf being placed on the top of the 
jar or in the jelly. There are three favorite varieties: 
nutmeg; rose; apple. Flowers small but foliage 
scented. 

Variegated varieties. Happy Thought is one of the 
oldest. Foliage green with a yellowish-green blotch in 
the center of the leaf. Mme. Salleroi, a bushy and com- 
pact plant, dwarf in habit, propagated by breaking off 
crown shoots. The plant if well grown will cover the 
surface of the pot with a beautiful combination of green 
and white. 



PELARGONIUM (LADY WASHINGTON) 

Nat. Orel. Geraniacece 

Pelargonium is taken from the word pelargos, a stork, 
referring to the beak-like formation of the seed pod, and 
is sometimes called stork's bill. 

They are mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope; 
a few occur in Australia, one in the Canary Islands and 
one in Asia Minor. 

One of the Pelargonium grandiflorum was introduced 
into cultivation in 1794. One of the hybrids was called 
"Lady Washington," which gave the whole class this 
popular name. 

124: 



FLOWERING PLANTS 



This variety of plants has the greatest com- 
bination of colors imaginable, and some have 
ruffled petals which add to the gorgeous ap- 
pearance of the bloom. 




Fig. 53. — Lady Washington 

The plants should have a rest the latter part 
of the summer in a cool dry place for at least 
two months. Prune the branches back. Shake 
out the roots, also prune these a little and repot 

125 



HOUSE PLANTS 

in a rich garden loam containing a little sand. 
Soil from a compost heap is most desirable. 
After the adventitious buds appear place in a 
light, cool room. Pinch back the branches so 
as to develop a well-shaped plant. After the 
desired shape is secured, expose the plant in a 
sunny window, and feed with liquid cow ma- 
nure every two weeks. If in the home, a little 
pinch of nitrate of soda is satisfactory. After 
the petals start to fall from a cluster, remove 
the flower, so that seeds do not develop, and in 
this way more flowers are realized for your 
eff'ort. 

The Lady Washington should bloom from 
three to four months after rest. 

The plant, like the common geranium, is 
propagated by cuttings. 

Aphides or plant lice are a common pest. 
Make some thick suds of fish-oil soap in a wash- 
tub. Add a few teaspoonfuls of tobacco water 
(Black Leaf 40). Place both hands over the 
surface of the soil and submerge the entire 
plant in solution. Hold it there for several 

126 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

minutes. Rest and repeat the operation sev- 
eral times. Then rinse with clean water, spray 
after it has stood at least one-half hour. 

Undressi — light rose, veined darker. Flowers all sum- 
mer. 

Grandiflora — large violet-blue flower. 



FUCHSIA 

Nat. Ord. Onagraceae 

With the exception of two species belonging to New 
Zealand the fuchsias are mostly found in their native 
homes in moist places in forests and on lofty mountains 
of Mexico and Chili. 

A monk named Father Plumier, who was a noted bot- 
anist in the latter part of the seventeenth century, dis- 
covered this most interesting family of plants and named 
it after Leonard Fuchs, a celebrated German botanist. 

This old-fashioned plant is one of the sim- 
plest for home culture. 

It is propagated from cuttings placed in 
sand. In about two weeks shift into a small 
pot, when a fair root system should have de- 
veloped. 

127 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The soil should not be rich at first — a clean 
garden loam. Never allow the plant to get 
pot-bound, but shift until a five- or six-inch pot 




Fig. o^. — Tree-Shaped Fuchsia. Bl.\ck Prince 

128 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

or larger is reached. Then pot in three parts 
garden loam, containing sod finely chopped up, 
and one part well-decayed horse manure 
mixed with a little leaf mold. If a tree-shaped 
plant is desired pinch off all side shoots, leav- 
ing a main stem. After the trunk or stem 
reaches the desired height, pinch off the termi- 
nal bud, leaving four side buds to develop. 

After these have reached two or three inches, 
pinch off each end bud and let the buds on each 
branch develop. 

Continue this until a desired head is formed 
and then allow to develop flower buds. An 
application of liquid cow manure, very weak, 
about every two weeks after the branches are 
well started until the buds appear, will help 
the vigor of the plant and size of the bloom. 
The plant should always have heat, sufficient 
water, and plenty of air, but no draught. Ex- 
tra water is required after flower buds appear. 

Some varieties have been grown to a height 
of six feet. 

The white fly is a common pest and is found 
129 



HOUSE PLANTS 

on the under side of the leaves. A most satis- 
factory remedy is to spray with one table- 
spoonful of nicotine (Black Leaf 40) and a 
tablespoonful of lime sulphur solution added 
to four quarts of water. Spray directly to 
under side of leaves. 

For summer blooming, store the plant in a 
cellar in October and decrease the water. 
Most of the leaves will drop. Late in January 
repot and shake out the old soil, remove some 
of the roots and about two-thirds of the 
branches by pruning. Supply water, sunlight 
and warmth. 

For winter bloom, with such varieties as 
Fuschia speciosa, keep in a shady cool place in 
the summer, prune and repot in September. 
Flowers will appear the latter part of Decem- 
ber. 

Black Prince — carmine magenta, with violet corolla, 
fading to a soft pink. A most satisfactory single variety 
for tree culture. 

Arabella — white tube and sepals, corolla rosy pink. A 
good single. 

Speciosa — flesh-colored sepals, carmine corolla. 

130 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

Phenomenal — crimson tube and sepals, corolla a rich 
shade of violet. A desirable double. 



CINERARIA 
Nat. Ord. CompositcB 

The cineraria is a most ornamental and use- 
ful plant for winter blooming. 

For home use it is advisable to secure the 




^^si^ 



Fig. 55. — The Cineraria 

131 



HOUSE PLANTS 

young" plants from a florist, the seed having 
been put in about March first to April fif- 
teenth. The amateur may desire to try to de- 
velop these plants from seed. To do this, 
make a flat box about two inches in depth; 
every six inches bore a half-inch hole in the 
bottom. Cover with shallow^ sod inverted and 
then sift on clean garden loam to one-half inch 
of the edge, smooth and scatter the seed broad- 
cast, cover with fine sand to three times the 
diameter of the seed, press aUd cover the box 
with glass. Great care should be taken in 
watering. 

After the plants are about one inch high 
transplant them into small pots. By the mid- 
dle of October they should be in six-inch pots. 
Use a rich garden loam with a little decayed 
manure at the bottom of the pot. As soon as 
the plant becomes somewhat pot-bound it will 
develop a flower. When this appears give the 
plant a little liquid cow manure water, or a 
small pinch of nitrate of soda in a glass of 
water, and apply every week until in full 

132 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

bloom. Give a moderate amount of sunshine 
and water when necessary, never allowing the 
leaves to wilt. 

It is better to develop new plants every 
season rather than to attempt to carry them 
over. 

The cineraria is often a failure in home cul- 
ture on account of plant lice and a careful look 
on the under side of the leaves will aid in guard- 
ing against this insect. When the pest first 
appears place both hands over the soil in order 
not to disturb the roots and invert and dip the 
entire plant in a bucket of nicotine solution — 
(forty per cent, nicotine) about three table- 
spoonfuls to an ordinary bucket. Be careful 
not to injure the buds. Hold the plant in the 
solution for ten minutes. Allow it to dry and 
examine it to see if the insects are dead. If 
not repeat the treatment until results are re- 
alized. Another treatment is to dust thor- 
oughly with tobacco and after it stands half a 
day wash the leaves off under the faucet. 

There are many colors described in most 
133 



HOUSE PLANTS 

seedhouse catalogs. The most satisfactory va- 
rieties for home use are: 

Stillata Hybrida — vigorous habit and handsome flower. 
James' Giant Strand — very tall and graceful. 
Grandiflora Prize — medium tall; a fine decorative 
plant. 

SPIREA (ASTILBE) 

Nat. Ord. Rosacece 

The Spirea japonica was introduced from Japan in 
1865, and has since grown in favor as a pot plant. The 
name Spirea comes from the Greek speiraia, spiral, al- 
luding to the flexible branches being suitable for twisting 
into garlands. There are many varieties, tender and 
hardy, on the market, all of which are most beautiful. 

The Astilbe japonica, Japanese spirea, is 
growing in favor as a house plant because it is 
hardy and may be forced from year to year, 
giving a fine set of bloom each season. 

The roots may be secured from the seedman 
or flower shop in November and should be 
potted in a rich garden loam, stored away in a 
cool cellar or cold frame for from three to five 
weeks, after which they may be brought into a 

134 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

temperature of 60° F. Give them a moderate 
amount of sunshine and the necessary amount 
of water. After the foliage is well grown ap- 




FiG. 56, — Japanese Spirea. Astilbe, White Pearl 

ply a little weak liquid cow manure once a week 
until the flower appears, which will be in about 
ten to twelve weeks. Care must be taken after 
spraying the plant to keep it from the direct 

135 



HOUSE PLANTS 

rays of the sun, which will burn the tips of the 
leaves if they are wet and exposed. 

After the flower season is past and there is 
no danger of frost turn the pots on their side 
in a cool shady place in order to give the plant 
a rest. In the fall remove it to the cellar about 
the first of November or before the heavy 
frosts. It is best to repot this plant each 
season. 

There are several very beautiful varieties on 
the market such as: 

Ceres — delicate light rose-colored flower with peculiar 
silvery sheen. 

Juno — strong grower, flower a deep violet rose color. 

Vesta — plume-like, the flower of light lilac rose. 

Salmon Queen — beautiful salmon pink. 

White Pearl — silvery white flower. 

Japonica — creamy white. This is one of the hardiest 
and a general favorite. 

OLEANDER 

Nat. Ord. Aspacynaceoe 

Most of the oleanders or neriums are of continental 
origin. It derived its name from Neras, moist, referring 
to its native haunts. These beautiful plants, both leaf 

136 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

and flower, are poisonous when eaten. The branches have 
been used by campers for meat skewers with the bark 
peeled off. Even with this care the meat has been ren- 
dered fatally poisonous. 

The oleander is an old-fashioned favorite 
of the home and conservatory because of its 
easy culture and handsome flowers which are 
either double or single, j^ink or white. They 
are easily propagated from cuttings taken 
from mature leading shoots of healthy growth, 
j^otted in sand or soil. They may also be 
potted in water, after which they may be trans- 
ferred to the pot. Keep the soil moist after 
potting. The oleander may be trained in the 
shape of a tree with a large head or in a loose 
shrub form. The plant needs a complete rest, 
usually in midwinter. Place the pot or tub in 
a cellar, free from frost or gas, and withhold 
water. After a period of two months bring it 
into the light, prune back, and water freely. 

The soil should be very rich. 

Garden loam 1 part 

Muck 1 part 

Well rotted cow or horse manure 2 parts 

137 



HOUSE PLANTS 

This should be well incorporated. Remem- 
ber that the plant is a native of swampy places 
and therefore needs plenty of water, especially 
during the flowering season. If the soil be- 
comes dry the flowers drop off. 

Red spider is a common pest where the plant 
has been allowed to get a little dry or dusty. 
Spray with clean cold water, using great force. 
This will dislodge the spider. 

Mealy bug and scale may be removed by 
sponging with fish-oil soap or fir-tree oil. 
Kerosene emulsion has also been recommended 
but the odor is not pleasant in the room. 

Those having raised the oleander have never 
regretted their time or eff*ort, as the plant has 
paid them well in bloom. 

VIOLET 

Nat. Ord. Violacece 

Around both the blue and white violets are woven 
many myths and folk-tales. They are supposed to have 
originated in Greece, where they were fed to the priest- 

138 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

ess lo, who was changed into a white heifer in order to 
conceal her identity. 

The flower has been known since antiquity and was 
at one time thought to have a curative value in checking 
the dreaded disease cancer. It has also been used as 
food. 

Our cultivated varieties may have arisen from the 
Viola odorata^ which is commonly found in Europe and 
Asia. 



The violet may be successfully grown in win- 
dow boxes about six inches in depth. The 
plants should have free space in which to grow 
with a clean cool air drainage. The box should 
have a number of drainage holes in the bottom. 
Cover these with crock and fill in about an inch 
of well-decayed cow manure and the remainder 
of the box with two parts garden loam, con- 
taining considerable sod, and two parts of mod- 
erately heavy clay. A little sifted sheep ma- 
nure is not objectionable and also a very little 
sand. The soil should never pack or puddle 
and should be loose enough to give free drain- 
age. If it is possible leave the soil out over one 
winter so that the frost may work on it. In 

139 



HOUSE PLANTS 

this case mix considerable bone meal through 
the compost. Where one part of decayed 
horse manure or cow manure is used it should 
be pulverized and mixed thoroughly, and the 
compost turned over three or four times during 
the summer. 

Strong plants may be secured in the fall 
from the florist and should be planted six 
inches apart. The plant can stand consider- 
able sun but cannot stand drought. Water 
should be applied when necessary but the plant 
should not be wet overnight. Spray in the 
morning on clear, bright days with force and 
this will subdue the red spider. The plant does 
best in a cool room where considerable ventila- 
tion is possible. The flower should be picked^ 
early in the morning and late in the afternoop^ 
and seed should never be allowed to develop. 

In the spring the crown should be divided 
and the young plants developed in a cool place ; 
use only the young healthy growths. Leave 
out in the garden as late as possible in the fall. 
A very light frost will not injure the plants. 

140 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

It is not a bad idea to keep loose tobacco 
stems scattered between the plants to check the 
green ^y and the brown aphides. 

Tlie most common disease is the spot, which 
disfigures the leaf. Pick off all diseased leaves 
and burn, decrease the spraying and try to get 
the foliage in a healthy condition by keeping 
the plant and air dry and cool. There are 
many diseases and insects that attack the violet 
and the amateur should acquaint himself with 
these if the work is to take on a commercial 
character. 

The violet is a beautiful flower and should be 
grown whenever proper care or culture may be 
given. 

The following varieties may be grown in pot 
or box : 

Single : 

Russian Violet — soft blue, free bloomer. 

Governor Herrick — soft blue, tinted with rose, very- 
free bloomer, and a most desirable variety for 
winter culture. 

Princess of Wales — the best commercial variety and 
most satisfactory for pot culture, rich violet color. 

141 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Double: 

Neapolitan — a lavender-blue, very good. 
Marie Louise — the best double, strong plant and a 
free bloomer. The foliage is a dark green and 
the flower a lavender-blue. 



GLOXINIA 

Nat. Ord. GesneriacecB 

Most of the species of gloxinia come from damp, 
shaded places of South America, while a few are found 
on high mountain elevations. The plant was first intro- 
duced in 1739 and was named after P. B. Gloxin, a 
botanist of Colmar. 

The gloxinia is not only a favorite summer 
plant because of its brilliant bloom but also 
because of its velvety leaves of richest green. 

Large bulbs may be secured from the florist 
in the fall and should be planted in five- or 
six-inch pots, the soil consisting of two parts 
light garden loam with considerable decayed 
sod mixed in, one part well-rotted leaf mold, 
one-half part fine sheep manure or shredded 
cow manure and one-half part cocoa fiber. It 

142 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

should always be rich and porous. The plant 
reaches perfection if put in a warm, moist at- 
mosphere in a partly shaded place. After the 
flower buds appear, put in a cooler room in a 




Fig. 57. — A Beautiful Gloxinia 

Note the velvet appearance of the leaves and the number of buds in 

all stages of development. 



shaded window, and let the buds develop 
slowly. The flowers will be larger and will 
last longer. 

The plant should receive a liberal amount 
143 



HOUSE PLANTS 

of water after the leaves are well grown and 
the flow^er buds are formed. To insure the 
greatest success after the plant is well grown 
give an application of weak liquid cow manure 
every week. The flowers will usually be 
larger and the leaves a darker green. The 
seed pods should always be pinched off as soon 
as they appear, so as to throw the strength of 
the plant into the production of bloom instead 
of seed. If after several months of flowering 
the blooms become small, this is a signal to 
decrease the water gradually and let the bulb 
have a rest. The bulbs should be kept free 
from frost, packed in sand, or they may be 
stored in a cool cellar in pots, l^sder the plant 
just enough to keep the bulb plump. Should 
it have a shriveled appearance on removing 
from storage, pack for several days in moist 
moss. 

The gloxinia may be propagated from seed 
in the same manner recommended for the 
propagation of the begonia, with the exception 
of placing damp moss over the surface of the 

144 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

soil until the seeds germinate. They are ex- 
tremely small and should be handled with 
great care. For general home culture it is 




Fig. 58. — The Gloxinia 
A, leaf cutting; B, four weeks later. 

best to secure a well-developed bulb from the 
florist. 

Leaf cuttings are common ; they root quickl}^ 
in clean sand and will in two seasons develop 

145 



HOUSE PLANTS 

into very desirable plants. Break off the leaf 
at the main stem and plant the leaf stem and 
half the leaf in sand, firmly fitting it into po- 
sition (Fig. 58). After four weeks place in a 
small pot, and put in a warm shady place to 
develop. 

The foliage is thick and covered with a vel- 
vet coat. Never sprinkle it with water and 
always protect it from dust. Care should be 
exercised in handling the plant, as it is weak 
at the surface of the pot, and there is danger 
of its breaking at this point if handled roughly. 
The leaves are also brittle and should never be 
bent, the foliage being most desirable for the 
brilliant bloom. 

There are many varieties on the market, the 
bulbs usually ready for shipment in the fall. 
The following are very satisfactory and beau- 
tiful: 

Waterloo — deep purple. 
Meteor — carmine, edged white. 
Graf Zeppelin — carmine fringed. 
Nixe — white^ bordered blue. 
Marienthaler Kind — deep crimson. 

146 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

There are many other handsome colors, and 
no flower of summer blooming is any miore de- 
sirable than the gloxinia. It is easily grown 
if given the proper culture. 




Fig. 59. — An Amateur's Window of Gloxinias 



ABUTILON 



Nat. Ord. Malvacece 



The abutilon, which is an Arabic name for a plant 
like a mallow, has several other names : Chinese bell 
flower, flowering maple, golden bell. It is one of the 
free growers and free bloomers during the winter 
months. 

147 




Fig. 0(». — Abutilons Originated by Anson Wheeler, Morhis- 
VILLE, N. Y. 



148 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

A well-grown specimen is a delight to one 
caring for the window garden and a pleasure 
to the passer-b3^ It is mostly propagated from 



^^^n^'flffi^^^^HI 


Bl^^v '' 


Is J 

1 T^ ■\i<*i 


^^■' t 


^ 





Fig. ,61. — The Abutilon or Flowering Maple 



cuttings and the process of pinching back the 
Branches to shape the plant should begin early. 
Cuttings should be made of young, vigorous 
wood, started during the summer for winter 

149 



HOUSE PLANTS 

bloom. Old plants may be kept over the sum- 
mer by giving them a rest in a cool shady 
place, decreasing the watering and plunging 
the pot in the soil up to the rim. Repot in a 
rich sandy loam early in September for winter 
bloom. 

The plant is subject to injury from frost, 
and should it be desired for summer blooming, 
store it in the cellar during winter and plant 
out in the spring. 

The green fly and the white fly may be con- 
trolled by spraying with a solution of nicotine. 
Dusting with tobacco will also control the 
green fly. 

There are many varieties, named and un- 
named, and this flower is one of the most sat- 
isfactory for amateur breeders to experiment 
with. The plants are easily propagated from 
seed. 

Abutilon Thompsonii — a very fine, free blooming, 
variegated-leafed variety. Strong grower and easy to 
raise. Flower — yellow. 

Golden Fleece — yellow, green foliage. 

150 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

Boule de Neige — white, not a strong grower. 
Nevillarium — trailing. Fine for hanging baskets. 
Savitzii — variegated foliage, vigorous grower. 
King of Roses — pink. 

HIBISCUS 

Nat. Ord. Malvaceae 

Hibiscus is the name given by Virgil to the marsh 
mallow, and this extensive genus consists of both an- 
nuals and perennials. 

The okra found in our vegetable gardens is an an- 
nual from Central America and the West Indies and is 
a relative of the beautiful hibiscus which is now com- 
monly grown as a house plant and in our shrub beds. 

The hibiscus, though not as well known 
as some plants for home culture, is fast becom- 
ing a favorite because of the glorious blooms. 
The flower is large and handsome and while 
void of fragrance this lack is made up in the 
brilliant and showy blossoms, gracefully situ- 
ated on short stems among the dark glossy 
green leaves. 

The soil should consist of two parts garden 
loam, one part leaf mold, well decayed, one 

151 



HOUSE PLANTS 

part rotted cow manure and one-half part 
sharp sand. A few chunks of charcoal should 




Fig. 62. — Boston Fern and Hibiscus in Combination with Other 
Plants 

152 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

be j3laced at the bottom of the pot or tub to in- 
sure drainage, which is of the greatest impor- 
tance to the successful culture of this plant. 
During the growing season the soil should be 
kept moist with an occasional application of 
very weak cow manure water. If the soil 
should become parched when the plant is in 
bloom both flowers and buds will drop off. 

If the plant is to bloom during the winter 
give it a rest in a cool shady place, withholding 
all water and allowing the soil to dry out thor- 
oughly. Repot in September and transfer to 
a warm place, prune back and give an ade- 
quate supply of water. If the plant is to be 
grown to decorate the porch or veranda dur- 
ing the spring or summer, store in a dry cellar 
free from gas and protected from frosts. 

The seed pods should be picked off as soon 
as the bloom passes so that the strength of the 
plant will not go to develop seed instead of 
flower. It may be propagated from cuttings 
made of matured new wood, planted firmly in 
clean sand, or from seeds. 

153 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The red spiders are common visitors and 
should be dislodged by a vigorous spraying 
with water. 

The mealy bug is controlled by spraying 
with whale-oil soap. 

Good varieties are: 

Rosa Sinensis Pleno — a large double flower, scarlet, 
yellow and bufF. Tliis species is easily affected by frost. 

Coccineus and Splendens are also very satisfactory 
bloomers. 

There are about a liundred and fifty species 
now grown, some wild, many perennials and a 
few annuals. Wherever these choice plants 
have been introduced to window culture they 
have been a source of pleasure and attraction. 

PETUNIA 

Nat. Ord. Solanacece 

The petunias though coming from a tropical country, 
all being natives of South America, are among the favor- 
ite hardy annuals. 

The petunia derived its name from the Brazilian name 
petun, meaning tobacco^ to which the plant is allied. 

154 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

The petunia is best propagated from seed 
sown in a flat filled with clean garden loam. 
Sow the seed broadcast in March and cover 




Fig. 63. — Double Petunia 

with sand to three times the diameter of the 
seed. Press down with a tamper and water. 
Cover the flat with glass and put in a shady- 
warm place. After the plants appear, remove 

155 



HOUSE PLANTS 

the glass and bring the flat to the light. After 
the seedlings are three-fourths of an inch in 
height thin out into thumb pots ; shift to larger 
pots every three or four weeks until the plants 
are a good size and shape for the final planting. 
Seed sown in March should bring plants in 
full bloom by June. If plants are desired in 
the winter, make cuttings of soft wood similar 
to those of the geranium, removing all buds 
as they appear until the plant has reached a 
desired size, when it may be allowed to bloom. 
If the aphis or white fly attacks it during 
the winter, submerge in a solution of fish-oil 
soap and nicotine. 

Single varieties: 

California Giants — very large, various colors. 

Ruffled Giants — immense flower, exquisitely ruffled 
and frilled. 

Undine — azure-blue with lilac margin. 

Adonis — ros}'^ carmine with white throat. 

Rosy Morn — dwarf, brilliant rose, excellent for pot 
culture. 
Double varieties: 

The double fringed varieties, both domestic and 
imported, may be secured from any reliable seeds- 
man. 

156 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

PRIMROSE OR PRIMULA 
Nat. Ord. PrimulacecB 

The Prumula auricula is a native of the Alps and was 
first introduced in 1596 and called the mountain, or 
French, cowslip. It blooms very early and so the name 
primrose or primula from primus, the first. 

Many of the new and most beautiful varieties come 
from the Himalayas, China and Japan. 

We have a native variety from the Rocky Mountains, 
the flowers purple and yellow but of no value to the 
florist. 

When Paralisos, the beautiful son of Flors and Pria- 
pus, lost his sweetheart his life became shadowed with 
sorrow. Heartbroken he died and the gods changed this 
lover into the primrose. 

This flower of individual beauty and delicate 
fragrance is a favorite among flower lovers be- 
cause it blooms most of the winter. 

It may be propagated from seed sown in 
the spring, grown slowly during the summer, 
and finally shifted into a five- or six-inch pot 
in the fall for winter blooming. 

One of the best methods of propagation is 
to divide the roots and crown of the old plant 

157 



HOUSE PLANTS 

into individual plants. The soil should be fine, 
rich and loose. Transplant, making a succes- 
sion of shifts during the summer. 

This plant demands a great supply of water 





M 


' 




4 


^ 


■J^"^ 




^PWuH^k 


'<-^ 


ii^^ 


!^ ^Fjir 


\ 


ii^' 


^1l7^ 




m 


ri/ 




^B 


jMl^ 


,-.,v^- 




i 


--^# ^^^H 

y k ^^^H 


' "^'^^'^^^^^^^^^SSt^BBM 



Fig. G4. — Primula Obconica 

during the season of growth. Remove the 
flower as soon as the clusters fade so as not to 
develop seed. If the mealy bug is found 
among the leaves remove it with a brush dipped 

158 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

in a soap insecticide. Protect the foliage while 
sweeping" the room and on warm dry days 
spray with clean water. 

The original variety, obconica, was intro- 
duced into cultivation from central China in 
1882. Since then many new varieties have 
been introduced. 

The only objection to this plant is that the 
leaves have unfortunate poisonous properties, 
similar to those of the poison ivy. Few people 
are subject to its poisoning effects. 

Varieties : 

Primula obconica gigantea: 

Lilacina — pale lilac. 

Rosea — pink, 

Kermecina — crimson. 

Alba — white. 
Primula obconica grandi flora: 

Compacta — dwarf, large rosy lilac flowers. 

Fimbriata — flowers fringed^ mixed colors. 

Vesuvius — deep crimson. 

Crispa — flowers curled^ apple-blossom pink to rose. 



159 



HOUSE PLANTS 



CHINESE PRIMROSE 



It is generally conceded by the lovers of the 
primrose that the Chinese primrose is more 
beautiful in both foliage flower and color than 
the Primula obconica. 

Some of the varieties are double, some 
smooth petals, while others are fringed or 
crisped in the most exquisite manner. The 
foliage has a velvet appearance, some reddish- 
green, while others are a soft light green. 

The seed should be sown in flats by March 
fifteenth, covered to three times their diameter 
with clean sand and shaded until seeds germi- 
nate. Great care should be taken not to allow 
a green mold or scum to form on the surface 
of the sand or soil, for this will cause the dis- 
ease known as "damping off*," which in time 
causes the plant to topple over and die. Should 
this occur, it is well to dust the plant with dry 
road dust, decrease the water and increase the 
sunshine and air. 

Transplant into small pots while young, in 
160 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

rich light soil. Do not allow the water to 
puddle near the stem ; better have the soil high 
at the crown, slanting to the side of the pot. 
Be careful in repotting not to cover the crown 
or heart of the ])lant, but have the young plant 
firmly established in the center of the pot. 

The plant develops in a cool room but it can- 
not withstand frost, draught or gas. Protect 
the foliage from dust and do not sprinkle with 
water. 

It is never advisable to carry the plant 
through a second season. The plant puts most 
of its vitality into the winter bloom and is 
worn out by spring and the flowers that might 
follow are inferior and the foliage sickly 
looking. 

Young plants may be secured from the flor- 
ist during April for a few cents apiece and this 
is found to be the most satisfactory. 

Never allow the plant to stand in the intense 
sun during the summer but always in a shady 
cool place. 

There are many varieties to select from, but 
161 



HOUSE PLANTS 

the following are very satisfactory and beau- 
tiful: 

Duchess — large white with zone of rosy carmine, yel- 
low eye. 

Kermesina Splendens — crimson. 

Rosy Morn — delicate pink. 

Stellata (Sutton's) — very fine for pot plants, colors 
mixed. 

Halborn Blue — a beautiful shade of blue. 

Chiswick Red — brilliant red. 

Fern-leaved — mixed colors with beautiful fern-shaped 
leaves. 

HELIOTROPE 

Nat. Orel. BaragenacecB 

The heliotrope was introduced to cultivation in 1757 
from Peru. It derived its name from helios, the sun, and 
trope, turning, in reference to the curled or twining 
flower branches. 

The hehotrope is one of the most fragrant 
of all house plants, a free bloomer and very 
easily grown. 

If a standard plant is desired, start from a 
cutting, pinching off each flower bud as it ap- 

162 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

pears, allowing only leaf buds to develop. 
This may be done until the main stem is five or 
six feet hig'h, all side branches being carefully 
removed. This one straight stem should be 




Fig. 65. — A Fine Specimen of Heliotrope 



supported and at the head allow four or five 
branches to develop, pinching the ends of these 
now and then until a large ball one foot and a 
half or more in diameter has developed, then 
allow the flower to form. The bushy plant is 

163 



HOUSE PLANTS 

the favorite, the standard being too stiff, yet 
beautiful. 

The soil should be a rich garden loam, con- 
taining well-decayed horse, cow or sheep ma- 
nure and a little sand. Fine roots are devel- 
oped and form a moss on the inner surface of 
the pot. Repot often until a large pot is 
reached, eight to ten inches. The plant thrives 
on a thin solution of liquid cow manure given 
every week after the plant is well grown. 
Never allow the soil to get dry but keep 
the roots always moist. If the leaves curl and 
turn yellow and brown, the plant may be pot- 
bound, lack food or moisture. Gas will also 
defoliate the plant veiy quickly. After the 
flower passes, pinch off. Do not allow seed to 
form. 

Peruvianum — light-blue flower, free bloomer, delicious 
fragrance. 

Lemoine's Giant produces a profusion of flowers, 
nearly double the size of the old varieties. Various col- 
ors from light-blue to dark. 

Regal is of dwarf, compact growth; immense flowers, 
all shades. 

164 



FLOWERING PLANTS 



MARGUERITE 

Nat. Ord. Compositce 

The marguerite is seldom found in our win- 
dow gardens, a fact to be regretted, for it is 




Fig. (50. — The Marguerite 



one of our most satisfactory free-blooming 
plants. 

165 



HOUSE PLANTS 

They are easily rooted from cuttings placed 
in sand or soil, should be shifted to small pots 
as soon as the roots are well formed, or in 
about eighteen days. The plant should be 
transplanted from time to time into a succes- 
sion of larger pots, because if pot-bound for 
only a short time the flower buds will appear. 
It should be finally established in a six- to 
eight-inch pot, depending on the size and na- 
ture of its growth. Allow the plant to de- 
velop a stem eight inches in length, pinch back 
to six inches and allow four or five side shoots 
to develop. Keep j^inching back and shaping 
the plant until it is bushy and well formed. 
Plants properl}^ pruned and cared for reach a 
height of from three to five feet and four to 
five feet across. 

The soil should be moderately rich with a lit- 
tle sharp sand sifted through it. The mar- 
guerite consumes a surprising amount of wa- 
ter, which should be liberally supplied. After 
about half the desired height is reached an ap- 
plication of liquid cow manure, very weak, fol- 

166 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

lowed by a good supply of water, will beautify 
the foliage as well as insure a stocky growth. 

If flower buds are desired, decrease the wa- 
ter supply a little and allow the plant to be- 
come pot-bound. As soon as flower buds ap- 
pear increase the water supply as well as the 
food supply of manure water. Care must be 
taken not to overdo this treatment. All flow- 
ers, as soon as the petals begin to wilt, should 
be picked off so that seed is not developed. 
Syringe often, especially on bright days, and 
should the aphis appear on the soft shoots and 
flower buds dust with tobacco powder or spray 
with Black Leaf 40. 

After the flowering season has passed, cut 
back and plant out of doors. A new crop of 
flowers is produced late in the summer. Cut- 
tings may be made in the fall and removed to 
the house before frost. 

The marguerite is a most desirable plant for 
Easter. Cuttings should be developed in No- 
vember and the plant raised in a moderate 
temperature. 

167 



HOUSE PLANTS 

This beautiful forerunner of the common 
field daisy awakens memories of childhood, as 
the beautiful star-shaped bloom appears be- 
fore the warmth of early spring has driven 
away the snows. It is always an object of ad- 
miration and pleasure to the grower. 

CARNATION 
Nat. Ord. Caryophyllacece 

The original name for the carnation was Dianthus 
from dias, wine, and anthos, a flower, in reference to the 
fragrance and the unrivaled neatness of the flower. 

In the early days of our country the old people used 
the old-fashioned pink to season their dishes and to 
flavor their wines. 

The old type of grass pink is still a favorite in the 
Colonial gardens and is often sold as a pot plant in June. 

The carnation is not only valued for its 
beauty and fragrance as a pot plant but also 
for its lasting quality as a cut flower. 

The plant is propagated from cuttings taken 
from the leaf shoot in January planted in clean 
sharp sand packed tightly. The cuttings 

168 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

should be shaded for several days and after 
three weeks removed to a small pot. When the 
plant reaches a height of four inches pinch it 




Fig. C7. — Pot-Grown Carnation 



back and allow three to five shoots to develop. 
Make a succession of shifts until a four-inch 
pot is reached and as soon as frost is past, re- 
move it from the pot, plant in the garden, 
cultivate and keep the flower buds pinched oft* 

169 



HOUSE PLANTS 

during the summer. The latter part of August 
the plant should be bushy and potted in a rich 
soil, having as much of the soil adhere to the 
roots as possible on removing the plant from 
the field so that it will not have a shock or set- 
back in its new home. The plant should then 
be placed in a sunny window and given con- 
siderable water. Never allow the old flowers 
to remain on the plant, and should cut flowers 
be desired take them in the evening or very 
early before the sun is well up. 

Spray on bright days with a syringe, using 
all the force possible. This will keep the plant 
free from red spider. Aphides may be con- 
trolled by dipping the plant in a solution of 
Black Leaf 40. 

If the leaf or stem produces a rusty powder 
in pustules, unevenly distributed but parallel 
with the veins, the plant is affected with car- 
nation rust (Uromyces caryophyllinus). The 
cuttings should be taken from healthy, vigor- 
ous plants. Pick off all diseased parts and 
burn them. Spray once a week with four 

170 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

ounces of copper sulphate to five gallons of 
water. Stop spraying the plant with clear 
water until the disease is checked. 

It is advisable to shift the carnations to a 
new spot in the garden each year to prevent 
stem rot. 

The plant develops to perfection in a cool 
temperature but should always be protected 
from frosts. 

There are many varieties of superb beauty 
and exquisite fragrance, but the following are 
most generally cultivated in pot or bench : 

Beacon — best scarlet, a free bloomer. 

Benora — variegated, color cream white, beautifully 
penciled with bright red. 

Enchantress Supreme — a light salmon pink. 

Enchantress — shell-pink; one of the most beautiful 
carnations grown. 

White Enchantress and White Perfection are satisfac- 
tory. 

White Wonder — a very free bloomer and grower; 
flower large and worth consideration. 



171 



HOUSE PLANTS 



HYDRANGEA 



Nat. Ord. Saxifragacece 



This beautiful flowering shrub has been named after 
the cup form of the capsule or seed vessel. It was in- 
troduced into England from China in 1790. Some of the 
later varieties came from Japan. 




Fig. 68. — Hydrangea Otaska Grown in a Window Garden 

172 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

The beautiful tresses of the hydrangea add 
to the elegance of the window garden and 
especially with those who have room to de- 
velop the plant as it should be. 

Cuttings should be taken late in the summer 
— August — from strong young shoots. Root 
in the sand and pot into rich earth, containing 
a little sand and shredded sod well decayed. 
Keep growing in a cool place, increasing the 
pot room from time to time and giving aiDpli- 
cations of weak liquid cow manure every two 
or three weeks. In December these plants may 
be brought into a warm room, allowed to stand 
in the direct rays of the sun, and the supply of 
water increased. The bloom will appear early 
in the spring. Old plants should have a rest 
during the summer, the pots plunged in the 
earth up to the rim in a shady cool place. 
Prune and repot the plant in the fall. 

Sprinkle in the morning every two or three 
weeks during the winter with water having the 
chill taken off. Never allow the foliage to 
remain wet overnight. If the foliage turns 

173 



HOUSE PLANTS 

yellowish between the veins add a little nitrate 
of soda to the soil and water freely. Plants 
will turn sickly if allowed to stand in a vessel 
partly filled with water. After the bloom ap- 
pears keep in a cool place and the flower will 
last much longer. 

The best varieties for pot culture are: 

Hortensis — a soft bluish pink. In clay soil the flower 
is a deep blue. 

Otaska — rich pink, a strong desirable variety for home 
culture. 

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS 

Nat. Ord. Begoniacece 

The tubers should be kept warm and dry 
during the winter, packed in sand. Pot in five- 
or six-inch pots in soil similar to that used for 
the begonia rex about the middle of March. 
After growth has well started increase the ap- 
plication of water, keeping the soil moist but 
never wet. A fine bloom should appear about 
June first. 

Good varieties are: 

174 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

Vernon — dwarf plant, bright red flower. 

Enfordi — one of the same habit as the Vernon, but 
liaving bright pink flowers which almost hide the foliage 
during flowering season. 

Crispa — variety of colors with the flower petals ex- 
quisitely filled and crested. 



'--^ 










] 
i 


.^ 


marm 


k- 



Fig. 69. — Tuberous Root Begonias 

There are many other varieties that are de- 
sirable and satisfactory and may be secured 
from the florist or seedsman. 



175 



HOUSE PLANTS 

PLUMBAGO 

Nat. Old. Plumhaginacece 

The plumbago or leadwort is a native of Europe, Asia 
and Africa. It is said that the plumbuni (lead) is a cure 
to some of the poisonous lead diseases. 

This beautiful plant is seen more in the con- 
servatory than on the window sill, though it 
may be grown successfully in the window 
garden. 

The plant is propagated from cuttings, root- 
ing easily and growing rapidly. Young plants 
also are secured from root cuttings and from 
divisions. It grows vigorously in a rich gar- 
den loam, and should be fed during the 
eight or nine months of bloom with liquid 
cow manure. This will insure continual flow- 
ering. 

The plant grows straggling if it is not cut 
back. The graceful swaying branches with 
the beautiful loose clusters of pale lavender 
bloom are a most desirable table decoration in 

176 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

bouquets alone or in combination with certain 
other flowers. 

Keep it cut back and new growths will ap- 
pear and the plant will keep in a healthy con- 
dition. It requires considerable water and 
sunshine during the flowering season. 

There are three principal varieties: 

Capensis — a beautiful lavender blue. 

Rosea — a rose-colored flower. 

Alba — a white flower. 

The Capensis has been found the most satisfactory 
bloomer, flowering at least eight months, from the first 
of September until April. 

AZALEA 

Nat. Ord. Ericacece 

The azalea which is raised mostly in greenhouses and 
conservatories was introduced from Turkey and China, 
though many of the choice varieties have been originated 
in Ghent, Belgium. 

The habitation of the plant is in dry places from 
which it has derived its name, azaleas, dry. Since its in- 
troduction into cultivation it has become one of the best 
commercial flowering plants. 

177 



HOUSE PLANTS 

A mysterious voice whispers a sense of won- 
der or satisfaction to my heart on entering a 
flower shop in azalea time. These gorgeous 
flowering plants are seldom cultivated by ama- 
teurs, and this is truly a pity, for they may be 
successfully grown if given the right treat- 
ment. 

First, and all-important, secure a healthy 
plant from the florist. If in full bloom they 
are rather expensive, but after the bloom has 
fallen the ])lants may be secured very reason- 
ably. Pinch ofl" all the seed pods first and 
prune back any uneven growth if the head is 
to be even. Personally I prefer the uneven 
head, because it is more graceful and here and 
there a bloom appears where one was not ex- 
pected, but this is a matter of taste. 

After the flowering season the annual period 
of growth begins, and care should be taken not 
to neglect the plant at this time. The plant 
should be kept in a cool, well-lighted room and 
the leaf buds allowed to develop, for it is at 
this period that strength is stored up for the 

178 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

following season's bloom. It is well at this 
period to repot into an azalea pot ranging in 
size from five inches wide, four and one-half 
inches in height, to ten inches wide and eight 
inches high. Remove the ball with a pointed 
stick, tease away the crockery and pick loose 
the roots on the outside before placing in the 
larger pot. 

The soil should consist of two parts peat 
soil, one part sand, one part decayed leaf mold 
and one-half part garden loam. The soil should 
be well incorporated and with a flat stick 
packed about the ball, which is placed in the 
center of the pot. A few pieces of charcoal at 
the bottom will insure drainage, which is of 
greatest importance, because the plant suc- 
cumbs to too much water quicker than it will 
to drought. 

During the summer the plant shoidd be 
placed out-of-doors in a cool, partly shaded 
place, the pot plunged in muck soil or leaf 
mold. It should have frequent spraying with 
clear water and never be neglected. The early 

179 



HOUSE PLANTS 

morning sun is best for the develoj)ment of the 
j^oung growth, but the hot noonday sun seems 
to stunt the growth. Do not overwater, but 
never allow the plant to get very dry. An 
application of liquid cow manure at various 
times will aid in the growth of the new wood 
and eventually in the number and size of the 
flowers. 

The plant is removed to the house before the 
frosts and should be syringed every day, so 
that the wood may be moist and loose and the 
buds allowed to form without too much loss of 
energy to the plant. Dry conditions seem to 
stiffen the growth and decrease the size of the 
flower. 

After the flower buds are well grown keep 
the plant from the direct sun. The flowers will 
have a richer color and will last longer. Dur- 
ing the flowering season slightly increase the 
watering but do not soak the soil, for too much 
water will quickly decay the fine roots and the 
flowers will drop before their time. The red 
spider is a common pest especially during the 

180 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

summer. Continual syringing with strong 
force will keep the plant clean. The mealy 
bug is also a common visitor and should be re- 
moved by submerging the head of the plant in 
suds of fish-oil soap or fir-tree oil. 

The plant sickens in a warm atmosphere, 
and especially where the air is not fresh. The 
azalea, while not so particular as the rose, re- 
quires a great deal of care and attention, but 
the grower is more than paid for his efforts in 
the profusion of flowers. If the plant is forced, 
the following year will only see a few strag- 
gling flowers, but if properly rested the second 
j^ear will see the plant recover itself. 

The azalea demands sufficient water, no 
more, muck or peat soil, cool fresh air, a bath 
often, a little food and a shady place to grow 
in and above all the watchful eye of the grower. 

There are many beautiful varieties and in 
selecting care should be taken as to time of 
bloom so as to have a succession of flowers for 
several weeks. 

The following varieties are recommended: 
181 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Hogarth — brilliant scarlet. 
Alfred Nenner — double white. 
Pres. Garfield — double red. 

The plant lice are controlled by dusting with 
tobacco. Spraying during bright days and 
early in the morning will aid the growth of the 
jjlant as well as keep the red spider in check. 
If the amateur can insure proper care this deli- 
cate flower of individual beauty should have a 
fair trial in the window garden or conserva- 
tory. 

LANTANA 

Nat. Orel. Verhenaceoe 

The lantana, which is the ancient name for viburnum, 
was introduced from the West Indies in 1682. There 
are many beautiful species found in Brazil. 

The lantana is a very rapid grower as well 
as a constant bloomer, which places it in the 
first rank of house plants. 

It will stand various changes of tempera- 
ture and even neglect in watering, but it is best 
grown in three parts garden loam, one-half 

182 



FLOWERING PLANTS 

part decayed horse manure and one-half part 
sand, well mixed. It requires a great amount 
of sunshine and a moderate amount of water 
but never have the soil sog'gy. It is started 
from either cuttings or seed but preferably 
from cuttings made from vigorous growing 
shoots in INIarch or April. 

Old plants may be removed from the pot 
after all danger of frost is past and planted 
in the garden. In a short time after being 
pruned back the new shoots will send out a 
great profusion of clusters, the flowers on the 
outside of the cluster opening first, changing 
color slightly before the center bloom is com- 
pletely opened, giving a very pleasing effect 
to the plant. 

The lantana branches freely and it may be 
trained to either a tree or a shrub. Spray oc- 
casionally with fish-oil soap and after a coujile 
of hours spray again with force, using clean 
water. This treatment will keep the plant 
practically free from insects. 



CHAPTER XIII 

ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

BEGONIA 

Nat. Ord. Begoniacece 

M. Begon, a Frencli botanist, was honored by having 
this plant named after him. The rex begonia is the 
most ornamental of all the foliage plants. 

The tuberous-rooted varieties have been introduced 
from South American Andes and their beautiful clusters 
of large blooms and soft green foliage make them a 
favorite spring plant. 

This house plant requires the simplest cul- 
ture. When it is young do not place it in a 
large pot; the roots are small and the plant 
should have a succession of shifts from a three- 
inch to a six-inch pot the first year. 

The soil should consist of 

Light sandy loam 2 parts 

Sharp sand 1 part 

184 




FiG.'70. — Fancy Leaf Begonias Originated by Anson Wheeler, 
MORRISVILLE, N. Y. 



185 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Chopped cow manure tliat has been ex- 
posed to the weather for two months . 1^ part 
Leaf mold well decayed l/o part 

The mixture should be well incorporated. A 
few pieces of charcoal placed in the bottom of 




Fig. 71. — Rex Begonia 



the pot will improve the' drainage of the pot, 
which should be kept moist but never wet. 
Cover the plant while sweeping and never 
186 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

sprinkle or shower the foliage. The begonia 
should never be put in direct sunlight or in a 
damp, poorly lighted room. The rex begonia 
does best in a temperature of about 65'^ to 80°. 




A B C 

Fig. 72. — Propagation of the Rkx Hkgonia 
A, cuts across the vein of the rex be^'onia leaf. The bottom side 
should be fitted close to the sands. B, portions. of the leaf placed 
in the santl will also develop young plants. C, a young begonia 
plant ready for potting. 

The rex begonia is l)est propagated Ijy leaf 
cuttings. The leaf should be cut as in Fig. 72, 
each piece being so cut as to form a junction 
of the rib at the lower end of the cutting, and 
placed in damp, warm sand. Protect it for a 

187 



HOUSE PLANTS 

week or more with papers. The complete leaf 
may be placed bottom side down and sections 
of the veins cut (Fig. 72), the leaf held 




Fig. 73. — Begonia Metallica 



tightly to the sand by toothpicks or hairpins. 
At each severed vein a young plant will ap- 
pear. Remove carefully and place in small 
pots. 

188 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

The flowering begonia, such as the metallica 
or argyrostygma, is propagated by cuttings. 





^ 


^^ 








^ ^*m^^^ 


^ 


|S 


T JBkQ 


^'w 


3 


T 


t 


1 


i 



Fig. 74. — Begonia Argentea Guttata 



The one insect that is often found on the 
begonia is the mealy bug (Pseudococcus 

189 



HOUSE PLANTS 

citriceoriae). Take a soft hairbrush, dip 
in a little very weak tobacco water and 
carefully brush off the insect. A dry brush 




l"i(j. 75. — Gloibe de Lorraine 

will displace the insect, when it may be de- 
stroyed. 

Do not allow the begonia to stand in a vessel 
partly filled with water, as the roots will decay 
and the leaves drop off. If you have made this 

190 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

mistake, repot and give the plant plenty of 
warm air. 

The begonia rex and its hybrids are the best 
for foliage plants. 




Fig. 7G. — Silver Leaf Begonia 



Flowering begonias: 

Gloire de Lorraine — beautiful rose pink, blooming 
from three to four months. 

191 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Argentea guttata — foliage bronze-green, spotted 
with .silver; flowers pearly flesh-color, borne in 
drooj)ing jianiclcs. Its upright habit and sturdy 
growth make it most satisfactory. 

Metallica — foliage hairy with dark-red veins promi- 
nent above the bronze luster on the surface; flower 
wliite. A beautiful plant. 

Manicata aurea variegata — foliage shining green 
blotched with cream and rose colors irregularly 
distributed over the larger waxen surface. A 
superb plant for the jardiniere. 

ARAUCARIA (NORFOLK ISLAND PINE) 
Nat. Ord. Coniferce 

This plant has derived its name from Araucanos. The 
Araucaria imbricata grows in Chili and the name Arau- 
caria is used among the people of the Araucanos country. 

The Araucaria excelsia is from the Norfolk Islands 
and sometimes reaches the height of two hundred feet. 

This slow-growing, fern-like evergreen is 
very popular and easily grown if kept moist 
and out of draughts. The soil should con- 
sist of 

Garden loam 2 parts 

Decomposed leaf mold 1 part 

Clean white sand ^/^ part 

Shredded cow manure l/G part 

192 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

The soil should be packed firmly about the 
roots and the plaut kept from draughts during 




Fig. 77. — AiiAUCARr.v (Norfolk Island Pink) 

the winter. The slightest chill will cause the 
needles to turn yellow and sickly and finally 
fall. Never allow the pot to become com- 

193 



HOUSE PLANTS 

pletely dry or the plant to be exposed to in- 
tense light or heat. 

It thrives best in a cool room or hall. If 
kept in a warm place the plant becomes in- 
fested with thrips and red spider. The first 
sign of these pests is detected on the lower tiers 
of the foliage. They become yellow and lose 
their leaves or needles. 

To control these insects submerge the entire 
plant in suds of fish-oil soaji. Invert the pot, 
holding in the soil by the hands. S^dsh the 
plant through the solution a number of times. 
Fir-tree oil is recommended, aj^plied according 
to the directions given with each can. 

Araucaria excelsa is a favorite but the Arau- 
caria robusta compacta is a stronger grower 
and more compact. 

DRACAENA 

Nat. Ord. LiliacecB 

The dracaena derived its name from Drakaina, a fe- 
male dragon; the thickened juice becomes a powder, like 
the dragon's blood. 

194 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

The oraco at Orotavia in the Island of TenerifFe has 
been estimated to be 6,000 years old and is a tree seventy 
feet high and seventy-nine feet in circumference at the 
base. The hollow center was used for centuries as a 
Roman Catholic chapel after the conquest of the island 
by the Spaniards. 

Some of the ornamental varieties were introduced from 
Africa in 1872 while others came from the East and 
West Indies and Mauritius and a few from New Zealand. 

It became of commercial value in 1820. 

The dracaena is one of the most beautiful 
of our ornamental plants. Some of the vari- 
eties have a dark shiny green leaf, while others 
are variegated with white and creamy rose 
stripes. The foliage is tough and the plant 
practically free from disease and insects. The 
plant requires a liberal amount of pot room, a 
warm moist atmosphere and plenty of water. 
The soil should consist of three parts of rich 
compost and one part peat or muck soil. 
A little white sand is most desirable. A few 
bits of charcoal or rough material should be 
put at the bottom of the pot so as to insure 
drainage. 

Sponge the foliage often with clean water 
195 



HOUSE PLANTS 

and where possible syringe, but have the plant 
thoroughly dry each night and especially at the 
axes of the leaves, where they readily decay if 
kept wet. The plant should be placed where it 
may have considerable sun and when possible 
a free circulation of fresh air, but never a 
draught of cold, frosty air. 

While the dracaena will withstand consid- 
erable rough usage, yet if treated kindly it will 
respond quickly with a glorious growth of 
foliage. 

The pots should be plunged out-of-doors in 
the summer in a shady cool place, or the plant 
may be taken out of the pot and planted in the 
garden. See to it that a liberal supply of 
water is furnished and a frequent syringing 
during the hot summer months. Repot early 
in the fall and remove to the house. 

There is a great choice of varieties but the 
following makes a fine collection: 

Bronze Beauty — beautiful bronze foliage and very 
liardy. 

Fragrans — broad green foliage. 

196 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

Massangeana — green striped with yellow. 

Godsiffiana — rich green^ spotted with creamy white, 
very handsome. 

Sanderiana — beautiful green foliage, bordered with 
white, a most desirable variety for a center piece. 

Terminalis — crimson foliage, striped with pink and 
white. 

BOUVARDIA 

Nat. Ord. Cinchona^e^ 

The bouvardia was introduced from Mexico and 
named after Dr. Bouvard, the curator of the Botanic 
Gardens at Paris. 

These beautiful evergreen shrubs are tender 
and subject to frosts. They are better suited 
to conservatory or greenhouse culture than to 
general house culture, often being a complete 
failure on account of careless treatment and 
uneven temperature. The soil should be light 
and sandy and fairly rich in manure. 

The plants are best propagated by breaking 
the roots apart so that several eyes are left to 
develop the new plant. These should be 
planted in a rich garden loam where they may 
be frequently cultivated during the summer. 

197 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The latter part of August pot and plunge up 
to the rim in soil, shading for several weeks 
until the plant is established in its new home. 
By the middle of September or before frosts 
remove to a simny window or conservatory 
where the plant grows well in moist warm air. 
Keep the soil moist but never wet, and never 
allow the pot to stand in a vessel containing 
water. 

The plant can assimilate a light supply of 
weak cow manure water about once a week 
after the last of October. The bloom should 
be at its height during the month of December. 

The plant cannot stand gas or the slightest 
draught, but should have an even temperature 
which is usually only possible in a greenhouse 
or conservatory. 

Young wood cuttings may be made in June 
and rooted in clean, sharp sand, but these are 
not as satisfactory as the root cuttings for 
general use. 

There are many varieties recommended in 
catalogs, some of them having been originated 

198 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

in this country. The following are good for 
general culture: 

Davisoni — white, free flowering. 
Elegans — rich crimson. 



ASPIDISTRA 

Nat. Ord. Lilacece 

The aspidistra was introduced in 18S5 from China and 
Japan. The plant gets its name from the shape of the 
flower, aspidision, a little round shield. The flower has 
a waxy appearance and opens on the surface of the soil. 
It is not beautiful but very interesting. 

The aspidistra has taken its place among the 
house plants because of its hardiness and beauty 
as a foliage plant. 

It is propagated by removing the young 
plants that appear quite frequently over the 
surface of the soil. A long knife is used, in- 
serted so as to remove with the young plant a 
little of the root. It thrives in soil composed 
of two parts rich garden loam, one part de- 
cayed leaf mold, one-half part sand and one- 

199 



HOUSE PLANTS 

half part clay soil. While the plant can stand 
considerable abuse it should never be allowed 
to suffer from the lack of water. 




Fig. 78. — Aspidistra Elatior Variegata 

The plant does not need the direct sunlight, 
so may be placed in shady parts of the room 
and the water may be decreased during the 
winter. In summer plunge the pot in the soil 

200 



I 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE PLANTS 

in some shady place and keep moist. Remove 
to the house before frost. 

The plant should have a sponge bath sev- 
eral times during the winter with fish-oil soap 
so as to remove all dust and keep the foliage 
shiny. 

There are two varieties which are suited to 
house culture: 

Aspidistra lurida- — one of the toughest and suited for 
house and garden culture. 

Aspidistra luridavariegata — tlie more common and a 
general favorite because of the beautiful foliage, which 
is a dark green, unevenly striped with cream-yellow and 
white. 

AGAVE AMERICANA, ALOE, OR CENTURY 
PLANT 

Nat. Ord. Amaryllidacece 

The Agave americana was introduced from South 
America in 1640 and since then has increased in favor 
both as a conservatory plant and decoration in rock 
work, to embellish terrace walks, flights of steps or en- 
trances to doorways. 

The term agavas, admirable, refers to the stately form 
in which some of them flower. 

201 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The fibers secured from the leaves of the century plant 
make the strongest rope. The juice^ when the watery 
part is evaporated, forms a good soap, and will mix and 
form a lather with salt water as well as fresh, A very 
intoxicating drink is also made from the juice. The 
leaves after treatment make very good razor straps. 




Fig. 79. 



-An Ornamental Arrangement of Century Plants 
(American Aloe Variegata) 



The plant is propagated by removing the 
small plants which appear on the surface of the 
soil by cutting with a knife, leaving a few roots 
to each young plant. They should be grown in 

202 



CHAPTER XIV 

RUBBER PLANT 

FICUS ELASTICA 

Nat. Ord. Urticacece 

The rubber plant is decorative standing 
alone on a Avindowsill or in a combination with 
palms. Its thick, shiny foliage gives it a prom- 
inent place among the home-grown plants. It 
is also desirable as a general house plant be- 
cause it can stand the effects of dust and dry 
air better than almost any other. 

The plant often becomes unsightly after it 
has reached a height of four feet with several 
uneven branches at the top (Fig. 84) and a 
leafless tr«nk. 

The rubber ])lant may be propagated by 
making a V-shaped cut in the branch, almost 
severing the upper part from the parent plant. 

209 



HOUSE PLANTS 

(Fig-. 85.) The cut should be made not less 
than one foot from the growing tip. Circle the 
wounded branch with about two inches of 




Fig. 84. — The Rubber Plant 

An ungraceful plant. Three straight, attractive plants might be 

propagated from this specimen. 



sphagnum moss and tie firmly, making sure 
that the moss fits tightlj^ in the wound. Do 
not wipe away the white liquid oozing from the 

210 



RUBBER PLANT 



wound. There is danger in injuring the 
wounded cells. Keep the moss moist, never al- 



11/"' 

V" / J ZI^ 7. 
^ *" / — / 
/ / / 

' / ~ A'-^ X 'I, 

-a 
S 

Fig. 85.^ — Stem of a Rubber Plant Wounded to Make a Cutting 
S, stem; A, lower leaves left, only remove leaves around the wound; 
B, surface to be covered with sphagnum moss; C, V-shaped cut 
in the branch; D, foliage above wound; F, where 6nal cut is to 
be made to sever young plant from parent after roots appear on 
the surface of the moss. 

lowing it to dry out. After a month or six 
weeks, white roots will appear. Now is the 
time to sever the growing plant from the par- 

211 




HOUSE PLANTS 



1 



ent. Cover the bleeding wounds with a little 
moist clay. Remove the lower leaves by cut- 
ting them off with a sharp knife. Pot this new 




Fig. 86. — Wounded Stem Bound in Sphagnum Moss 



plant without removing the moss so as to pre- 
vent injury to the tender roots. 

After placing a bit of broken crock over the 
drainage hole of a five- or six-inch pot, put in 

212 



RUBBER PLANT 

an inch of clay loam — not stiff clay — mixed 
with a little well decayed horse manure. Place 
the plant in the center of the pot so that the 
moss does not appear above the surface, fill 




Fig. 87. — Placing Clay over Wound to Prevent Bleeding, 

with soil to within a half -inch of the upper edge 
of the rim and pack the soil firmly with a broad 
stick about the plant, being careful not to in- 
jure the tender roots. Remove the plant to a 

213 



HOUSE PLANTS 

shady place until it becomes established in the 
soil and then bring it to light. 

Give it plenty of water but do not allow 
water to remain in the vessel under the pot. 




Tig. 88. — Finger Pointing at Root Showing through Moss 

B,emoving the moss would break the roots. Cut ofiF lower leaves 

and pot. 



There are few insects or diseases that attack 
the rubber plant, but should any of the scale 
insects appear on the leaves wash them with 

2U 



RUBBER PLANT 

fish-oil soap, making some thick suds, and ap- 
ply with a soft sponge. After applying the 
soap wash the leaves with clean water. This 





y 






:x 


^^H' 1 ^^H 




^3 


fflL-. 


0^^ 


-'.,i 


nRp-""*' 



Fig. 89. — Young Rubber Plant 
An attractive size for the home. 

treatment will keep the foliage free of insects. 
Never use oil to make the leaves glossy, as this 
impairs the health of the plant. 

If a brown, dried blotch appears on a leaf, 
215 



HOUSE PLANTS 

examine the ^lass in the window and see if 
there is not a flaw in it. The concentration of 
rays on one part of the leaf causes these un- 
sightly spots. The other varieties are: 

Pandurata (Majestic Rubber Plant) — this variety has 
enormous leathery leaves. 

Variegata — broad markings of creamy white on a dark 
green ground. Not desirable for home culture. 

Repens — creeping variety; fine for hanging baskets; 
small leaves. 



CHAPTER XV 

CHRYSANTHEMUM 

Nat. Orel. CompositcB 

These towsy-headed children of the plant family who 
refuse to comb their hair originated in China some two 
thousand years ago. It is called kiku in Japan, which 
symbolizes the sun, because of the beautiful balls of 
golden color that the yellow varieties form. It has been 
under cultivation in that country over seven hundred 
years. 

Few people know that this magnificent flower in as 
many colors as the autumn leaves is related to the com- 
mon daisy and the ox-eye daisy. 

The derivation of the word chrysanthemum is from 
the Greek words chrysos, gold, and anthenwn, a flower, 
referring to the yellow varieties, of which there are so 
many. 

This favorite of all flowers in the autumn is 
easily grown in a sunny window if given 
proper care. 

After the plants have stopped blooming 
217 



HOUSE PLANTS 

store in a cool place and gradually decrease 
the watering but never allow the plant to dry 
out completely. Bring it to the light the first 



^^^m ' ^^^^^%^F^^^^ ^^^1 1 


^B i^vSn^K ^H 


rP^ 


\fJ^'\ 



Fig. 90. — ^Three Beautiful Pink Single Stem Blooms of Glory 
OF THE Pacific 



of January and water freelj^ Suckers will 
appear around the crown of the old plant. 
After these young plants have reached a height 
of two to four inches, make cuttings, place in 

218 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 

the sand tightly packed. Shade the cuttings 
for two weeks. By the first to the middle of 
February the roots will have developed suffi- 
ciently, then transfer to a two-inch pot filled 
with rich light garden loam. Make several 
changes until a six-inch pot is reached which 
should be by the latter part of August. 

After the young plant has reached three to 
four inches in height, pinch off the termi- 
nal bud (Fig. 91), and develop branches. 
Continue to do this until the desired num- 
ber of stems are realized. For home-grown 
plants three to four stems make a graceful 
plant. 

Never allow the plant to become pot-bound. 
Plant in soil composed of the following: 

Rich garden loam compost 3 parts 

Shredded cow manure, decomposed . . . . ^2 part 

Sheep manure % part 

An addition of a little fine bone meal mixed in the 
soil for the final potting is most desirable. 

While the plant is growing give two appli- 
cations of water daily during the summer 

219 



HOUSE PLANTS 



1 



months, but only one during the latter part of 
August and September; at this time water in 
the morning only, so that the foliage may be 
dried off during the day. 

A little weak liquid cow manure is most de- 
sirable every week after the plant is well grown 
but do not feed after the buds appear. Too 
much food makes the buds split and the foliage 
curl. With some varieties it is advisable to 
plunge the pots out-of-doors during the sum- 
mer but always keep the soil moist and do not 
depend on Nature to do the watering. Check- 
ing the plant renders it susceptible to disease 
and the plant may fail to produce a perfect 
bloom. 

If a single stem is desired remove all the 
shoots that might appear. The main stalk 
should always be supported. Many of the 
single-stem varieties are rooted in June. Dis- 
budding will need attention early in Septem- 
ber. There are two forms of buds, crown and 
terminal. The crown bud is formed first, leaf 
buds appear from the axes of the leaves. If 

220 



!^' 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 

the crown bud is not desired, and in many 
cases it is an imperfect monstrosity, it is best 
to pinch it back, allowing two or more of the 




Fig. 91. — Chrysanthemum 

Finger pointing to place where the terminal bud was pinched back 

causing three branches to develop. 

vegetative shoots to develop. The terminal or 
last bud may be retained by disbudding all 
flower buds that appear around it or they may 

221 



HOUSE PLANTS 

be allowed to develop, depending on the size 
of the flower desired by the grower. 

If the plant should get dry during the sum- 
mer it is subject to red spider. Spray in the 
morning on clear days with a strong spray of 
clear water. 

Both the black and the green aphis attack 
the chrysanthemum. Apply as directed on 
packages, Nice-Fume, To-Bak-Ine, Kentucky 
tobacco dust, etc. 

If brown discolorations appear between the 
veins on the under side of the leaf the plant is 
attacked by thrips. Spray on under side of 
leaves with Hammond's Thrip Juice No. 2. 
Mix the solution thoroughly — one part to 
forty parts of water — and apply with force. 
This is best applied in the evening. 

Mealy bug may be dislodged with a brush. 
There are many other insects that trouble the 
chrysanthemum in commercial houses but are 
seldom troublesome in homes. 

The one common disease is the leaf spot, 
Septoria chrysanthemi, also the Puccinia chrys- 

222 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 

anthemi, both causing the leaves to curl and 
grow sickly. 

When the disease appears remove affected 
leaves and burn; spray the plant with Bor- 
deaux Mixture. Ask for solution containing 

Copper sulphate 6 pounds 

Quicklime 4 pounds 

Water 40 gallons 

Keep the foliage dry for several days after the 
spray has been applied. Do not get the spray 
on wallpaper or jjaint. 

The chrysanthemum, if sufficiently fed, hav- 
ing good air drainage as well as soil drainage 
and sunshine, is one of the most satisfactory of 
the home-grown flowering plants. 

There are many varieties on the market. 
The following may aid the amateur in a selec- 
tion but it is always best for one to make his 
own selection, studying the habits of the plant, 
time for blooming, color and general culture. 

Special new golden queen — yellow, matures October 
first. 

Marigold — yellow, matures October fifteenth. 

223 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Tekonsha — bronze, matures November twenty-first. 
Standard varieties. 
Early. Cuttings made in March; bloom in October. 

Glory of Pacific — soft pink. 

Golden Glow — yellow. 

Ivory — white, dwarf. 

Monrovia — yellow; easy to grow. 

Mrs. B. E. Hayward — bright pink. 

Polly Rose — pink. 
Midseason. Cuttings made in May, blooms from No- 
vember first to fifteenth. 

Col. -D. Appleton — yellow, very fine. 

Mary E. Myer — pure white. 

Yellow Eaton — yellow. 

Patty — pink. 
Late. Cuttings made in May and June bloom during 
November and later, according to culture. 

Adonis — pink. 

Chadwick supreme — yellow. 

Haward — dark crimson. 

Major Bonnafon — ^yellow. 



CHAPTER XVI 

ROSE 

Nat. Ord. Rosacece 

The name rose is derived from the Celtic rhod, red, 
the prevailing color of the flowers. 

The early culture of the rose is lost in the shadows of 
antiquity. The Romans placed the rose over the princi- 
pal door leading to the private feast, and anyone passing 
under it was bound by honor never to reveal anything 
said or done within the room, hence the term, sub rosa — 
under the rose. 

Roses are grown in America, Europe, Asia, Africa and 
Australia, but not one of these countries has contributed 
a single species, while Siberia, Iceland, Greenland, and 
Kamtschatka are fairly well represented. China, Persia, 
and India have furnished some of the finest species. 

The history of the rose is so extensive that it is im- 
possible to take it up here. The rose is found in myths, 
legends and poetry of all lands and has always been a 
flower to stimulate dreams and thought. 

An intense interest has been shown of late 
in the home culture of this one of the most 
beautiful of all flowers. 

225 



HOUSE PLANTS 

It may be propagated from cuttings (Fig. 
93) placed in clean sand, the cuttings fitted as 
firmly as possible into position. In about 





"^ 




I"' ^li: 


# 


^_^ 








§"tF 


0^^ 








Wm^ 


7^ 


^^ft^ 








y 










\ 


^|H 


j^^ 


"^^ 




1 




\ 



Fig. 92. — The Dorothy Perkins 

twenty-five or thirty days they will be ready 
to shift into two-inch pots filled with garden 
loam and a little sand. Cuttings made in Oc- 

226 



ROSE 

tober and cared for through the winter will 
make excellent plants for the following fall. 
As soon as the ball gets filled with roots, which 




B 

Fig. 93. — Rose Cuttings 
A, terminal short cuttings; B, cut made at the node (one eye should 
be above the sand); C, single eye cutting four weeks after 
planting. 

usually takes from six to eight weeks, shift into 
a larger pot, making a succession of shifts 
until a six- to eight-inch pot is reached. 

227 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The soil used in rose culture is of the great- 
est importance. A clay loam is the best, not 
too stiff. Add about a half-pint of fine bone 
meal to a bushel of soil and a very little finely 
shredded cow manure, well decayed. Each 
time the plant is repotted after the fifth month 
pound the soil around the roots, the tighter 
the better. 

Stir the surface of the soil lightly from time 
to time; add a little top dressing of manure 
secured from an old cow pasture, the manure 
having been exposed for some time, chopped 
fine and scattered over the surface during the 
summer; if the greenhouse is not available, 
plunge the pot in the soil in a partly shaded 
place out of doors. Never allow the soil to be- 
come dry but do not overwater. A little rough 
ashes at the bottom of the pot over the drain- 
age hole will aid, as proper drainage cannot be 
overemphasized. Spray with clear water and 
with force almost every bright day during the 
summer. Before the fall chills get into the air 
remove the rose to a sunny window. 

228 



ROSE 

The great difficulty in house culture is to 
arrange for proper spraying which should be 
done on clear days during the winter, always 
having the foliage thoroughly dry by night. 
If the foliage is damp for two or three days the 
plant becomes subject to mildew, which causes 
the leaf to curl, turn yellow and drop off. If 
the leaves on the lower part of the plant be- 
come affected, dust with flowers of sulphur 
(Fig. 94), both on the upper and lower sur- 
face to the leaf. It is a good practice to dust 
the plant on dull days regardless of the appear- 
ance of the disease, prevention being better 
than a cure. 

If the bloom appears in the summer, prune 
back the plant and keep it in check until Oc- 
tober, then let the flower develop for winter 
use. As soon as the petals fall pinch off the 
seed pod, for the development of seed will 
tempt the plant to stop flowering, all of its 
strength going into the production of seed. 

The rose should be given every advantage 
for sunshine the greatest number of hours dur- 

229 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ing the winter. It also requires a high tem- 
perature, from 75° to 80° F. during the day 
and 55° to 60° F. at night, but I have seen 
beautifully developed plants grown in a varied 
temperature. 

After the buds appear it is well to add once 
a week a thin liquid manure. This will increase 
the size of the flower and give vigor to the 
plant. Care must be taken not to overfeed it. 

The aphis is a common enemy of the home- 
grown rose. It may be controlled by dusting 
the young shoots and under sides of leaves with 
tobacco dust. Tobacco stems scattered among 
the pots will also aid in combatting this insect. 
This is not always convenient in the home but 
may be practiced in the conservatory. 

If small gray lines appear on the surface 
of the leaves between the veins, the under side 
of the foliage will reveal a slender white insect 
known as the rose-leaf hopper (Typlilocyha 
rosce) which is often mistaken for thrips. 
Both of these insects are dreaded enemies of 
the rose. 

230 



ROSE 

Remedies. — Spray with whale-oil soap 
or tobacco extracts, or dust with dry Pyre- 
thrum while the foliage is wet, and after six 
hours wash off with a strong spray of clear 
water. 

The red spider is kept in check by continual 
spraying with water during the summer and 
winter. 

If during the summer the rose beetle or rose 
bug, as it is sometimes called, attacks the foli- 
age, spray with arsenate of lead, two table- 
spoonfuls to a common pail of water. Paris 
green is not advisable on account of its bad 
effect on the foliage. The rose is easily af- 
fected with gas, the leaves turning yellow and 
dropping off. 

It is advisable for those desiring to raise the 
rose in sunny windows to buy a well-developed 
pot plant in the fall from a florist. It is diffi- 
cult to propagate the rose, but I should not 
discourage anyone's attempting it. 

I would hesitate to advise the culture of cer- 
tain varieties in the ordinary house because the 

231 



HOUSE PLANTS 

poorest variety will sometimes do beautifully 
with those having the knack or art of rose- 
growing, while others with the best varieties at 




Fig. 94. — The Mildew Dusted with Flowers of Sulphur 

hand will fail. If well-developed plants are 
secured in the fall the following varieties may 
prove satisf actoiy : 

232 



ROSE 

Dorothy Perkins — pink, small flower and in clusters; 
very bunchy and beautiful. 

Mrs. George Shawyer — beautiful pink; free flowering; 
strong and vigorous grower. The flower lasts longer on 
the bench or in a vase than any other variety I know. 

Richmond — rich shade of crimson. 

White Killarney — most beautiful when the bud is about 
to open. A pure white with a flush of pink. 

American Beauty — a rich, deep pink with odor en- 
tirely distinct. Some amateurs have been successful 
with this beautiful rose. 

Mrs. Aaron Ward — bud a deep Indian yellow; as it 
opens the outer margin is of a bright yellow. The 
flower is exquisite and the plant a free bloomer. This 
rose will win the heart of every rosarian. 

There are many other varieties suited for pot 
or bench culture, Hsted in catalogs. Each rose 
does best under special care which each indi- 
vidual must learn from experience, but the fol- 
lowing "Do's" and "Don't's" may help: 

DON'T'S 

DonH spray with cold water on cold days. 
Don't let insects and disease infect your 
roses. 

Don't try to raise roses in a shaded window. 
233 



HOUSE PLANTS 

Dont use sandy loam. 

Dont put the plant out in cold rains to have 
a bath. 

Dont let the pot dry out. 

Dont allow the pot to stand in a vessel con- 
taining- water. 

Dont soak the soil. 

Don't pour soapsuds over the plant. 

Do7it let the rose stand in a room containing 
escaping gas. 

Dont let the rose stand in a draught. 

Dont fail to pack soil around the j^lant 
firmly. 

Don't give up if you fail the first time. Try 
again. 

DO'S 

Do take an interest from the beginning and 
keep it up. 

Do use a clay loam, not too stiff. 
Do shift the plants in a succession of pots. 
Do spray every clear day. 
Do keep foliage dry during the night. 
234 



ROSE 

Do dust with sulphur on dull days. 

Do keep a supply of preventives on hand. 

Do keep your eyes open, your heart in tune 
and your hands busy with rose culture and you 
will succeed. 



CHAPTER XVII 

PALM 

Nat. Ord. PalmaceoB 

In the dawn of history we have records that the Baby- 
lonians made wine from the sugar secured from the palm. 
The Egyptians used its graceful, dignified foliage to 
adorn their buildings, the remains of which may still 
be seen, carved in stone. It was a token of triumph 
among the Jews and a part of the festive decorations for 
the Romans at their banquets. 

Linnaeus deservingly called the palm the "Princess of 
the Vegetable Kingdom." 

The date palm (Phoenix dactylifera) has furnished 
food for the Arabs and peoples of Africa for centuries 
and is now imported all over the world. 

The cocoanut palm (Cocoa nercifera) is the most use- 
ful of the palm family, supplying food of various kinds, 
clothing, material for houses, utensils, rope, oils and 
fuel. 

Other palms supply wax, starchy matter and sugar, 
which may be fermented so as to form an intoxicating 
drink. 

Brooms, fans and ropes are the most common articles 
made from this plant. 

236 



I 



PALM 

Wherever civilization has gone the palm has 
followed as an ornamental plant to decorate 
church and home. 

The palm will stand some bad or hard usage, 




Fig. 95. — A Group of Palms in a Shady Place for the Summer 



but if once really injured it takes a long time 
to recover. 

We must remember first of all that the plant 
is a native of the tropics and therefore does not 
require a great amount of water, even though 

237 
\ 



HOUSE PLANTS 

they edge the wells of cooling water in the 
desert. It is a common practice to place the 
palm in a jardiniere half full of water in the 
corner, of a room. The foliage tips soon turn 
brown and the leaves finally die one by one; 
then the blame is placed on the florist from 
whom the palm was secured. A perfect drain- 
age of both air and water is of the greatest im- 
portance to the successful culture of this favor- 
ite house plant, and in order to insure this we 
should place at least an inch of broken pots, 
bits of charcoal or even small stones at the bot- 
tom of the pot or tub. Cover this drainage 
material with sod fiber, cocoa fiber or decayed 
leaf mold, just enough to prevent the soil from 
sifting through into the rough material, and 
this will always insure proper drainage. On 
the other hand the plant should never suiFer 
from drought. 

The best soil for the palm consists of two 
parts garden loam, one part clay, one-half part 
sharp sand and one-half part powdered sheep 
manure. A little wood ashes scattered through 

238 



PALM 



the compost is very desirable. When the palm 
is transplanted the soil should be packed firmly 
about the roots without injuring them. The 




Fig. 96. — A Fine Specimen of Kentia BELMoiiEAXA 

plant should never be allowed to become pot- 
bound. Loosen the roots a little on the sides 
and bottom and if the palm is in a large tub 

239 



HOUSE PLANTS 

and is to be repotted it is advisable to remove a 
few of the outer roots, but this should only be 
done in extreme cases. 

During the winter the palm should be 
placed in a j)artly shaded spot in the room or 
hall but never where it may come in contact 
with gas or cold draughts. It should never be 
placed in the direct rays of the sun and if 
raised in a conservatory the glass should be 
treated in order to protect the plants. 

The palm can stand various degrees 
of temperature but it always suffers great- 
ly when the temperature is below 45°. It 
thrives best in 75° during the day and 60° at 
night. 

The palm should have a bath in water having 
the chill taken off, syringed when possible, and 
three or four times during the winter the leaves 
should be sponged with fish-oil soap. Hold the 
left hand flat under the leaf, and with the 
sponge in the right hand draw the hands from 
the midrib out to the edge of the leaf. (Fig. 
97.) Wash on both sides with the soap and 

240 



PALM 

then with clean water. The water should be 
at a temperature of 79°. 

During the summer the plants should be 
placed in a partly shaded spot with the pots 




Fig. 97. — Position of the Hands While Washing a Palm Leaf 



plunged to tlie rim in the soil. Where the 
plants are large they sliould be watered once a 
week according to tlie weather. They should 
be removed to the conservatory or house before 
the slightest frost appears, especially if new, 

241 



HOUSE PLANTS 

soft leaves have developed during the sum- 
mer. 

The palm is subject to several scale insects 
(Fig. 98), and especially the San Jose scale. 
These tin}^ insects are carried by other insects, 
birds, etc., and they often destroy the plant in 
a short time. Palms placed near or under ap- 
ple, plum or peach trees during the summer 
are in danger of a bad infection, especially if 
the trees are not sprayed, for the scale has 
spread to every part of the country. Keep a 
sharp eye open for indications of the scale on 
the palm and wash with a sponge as recom- 
mended with a solution of fish- or whale-oil 
soap in a common bucket, adding three table- 
spoonfuls of commercial lime sulphur. Allow 
the plant to stand for a day and then bathe 
with clear water. 

Mealy bugs at times infest such varieties as 
the Phoenix reclinata and may be dislodged 
with a sponge and toothbrush dipped in fish- 
oil soap. Care must be taken not to crack the 
leaves when washing and to have the water free 

242 



PALM 

from any grit that might scratch the surface of 
the leaf. 

Never place the plant in the cold chilly rains 




Fig. 98. — San Jose Scale on a Palm Leaf 
This scale may be carried in various ways to the plants from plum, 
apple, or peach trees under which they are resting for the summer. 



of the fall in order to give it a bath ; also do not 
feed the palms liquid cow manure or repot too 

243 



HOUSE PLANTS 

often, for the plant develops to greater perfec- 
tion in restricted pot room. A teaspoonful of 
ammonia in a cup of water given to a six-inch 
pot plant three or four times during the season 




l*'i(.i. !)!). — TnK CucuA Weddelliana 

will stimulate growth, but this should be fol- 
lowed by adding a little top dressing of pow- 
dered sheep manure worked into the soil. 
Large brown or burned spots sometimes ap- 
244 






PALM 

pear on the leaves of the Latania borboiiica 
especially and are caused by a flaw in the glass 
where the sun's rays are concentrated to one 
spot. Remove the plant to a shady place. 

Do not allow the leaves to be whipped or 
lashed by the winds during the summer or 
frostbitten in the fall or winter. For gen- 
eral culture the following varieties are recom- 
mended : 

Kentia belmoreana. 
Kentia forsteriana. 
Cycas revoluta. 
Cocoa weddelliana. 
Areca lutescens. 
Latania borbonica. 
Pandanus veitchii. 
Phoenix reclinata. 



1 



CHAPTER XVIII 

FERN 

The ancients were superstitious of certain species of 
ferns, for near them lurked creatures who brought bless- 
ing or curse according to the species. 

Like the palm they have followed civilization as a dec- 
orative plant and around these delicate plants it is 
thought the spirits and fairies still hold forth. 

In geological times the ferns were much larger than 
they are now, but we still find species in the swamps of 
the tropics reaching great height. 

A certain species of ferns in Liberia are boiled and 
used as a tea. Some of the varieties have become of great 
commercial value and there seems to be no limit to their 
size, shape or color. 

While ferns are among the most delicate of 
our plants, yet they are the most satisfactory 
foliage plants for general culture. The house- 
keeper who is a lover of plants cherishes the 
family fern, which is pointed to with the great- 
est pride. 

246 



FERN 

There is no question that many of the com- 
mon woods ferns, such as the purple cliff brake 
(Pallaea atropurpurea), walking leaf (Comp- 




FiG. 100. — Nephrolepis Magnifica 



tosoius rhizoj)hyllus ) , common polypody 
(Polypodium vulgare), shield fern (Dryop- 
teris spinulosa, var. intermedia), Christmas 

247 



HOUSE PLANTS 

fern ( Polystichum acrostichoides), and others 
would do well out-of-doors if given the proper 
environment and a little care. 

Ferns cannot be grown in a room where 




P'iG. 101. — Fine Feathe^iy Roots of the Boston Fern 
Note the piece of drainage crock. 

there is the slightest breath of gas; the tender 
tips of the fronds will turn brown, the plant 
will sicken quickly and die. 

The plant should never be cramped for room, 
but should be placed in a fair-sized pot, de- 

248 



FERN 

time standing' in a jardiniere partly filled with 
water. The soil soon becomes sour and the 
leaves turn yellow and die. 

The air should be moist and warm, and 
where benches are used a fine sifting of ashes 
over the bottom sprinkled with a little lime will 
guarantee good drainage. On warm days 
sprinkle the foliage with water, and where this 
is not possible keep a vessel of water near the 
plants on the radiator or register. Dry air is 
not congenial to the best growth of ferns. 

These delicate plants should not be placed 
in the sun and if kept in the window during the 
summer the glass should be whitewashed with 
lime and clay. This does not mean they should 
be grown in the dark, but never where the di- 
rect rays of the sun may strike them, especially 
during the warm months of summer. 

Some varieties of ferns are attacked by 
mealy bug, and these insects should be re- 
moved as soon as they appear by submerging 
the fronds in a suds of resin fish-oil soap. Af- 
ter a few hours spray with clear water, dislodg- 

251 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ing the insect. The common scale (Lecanium 
hemisphaericum) is often fomid in the Boston 
fern and others. Bathe with fir-tree oil, using 



% 


s 




v.._ 




^ 


<^s^ 


^: 


hI 


#■ 



Fig. 104. — Crested Fekn (Pteris Wilsoni) 



a soft sponge. Be careful not to crack or 
break the frond while washing. Place the left 
hand flat under the leaf and with the right 
hand dislodge the insects. 

252 



FERN 

The slug is a miserable enemy, especially to 
the maidenhair fern, coming out only at night 
and leaving traces of its movements by a shiny 
slime, like a path, over the foliage and here and 




Fig. 105. — Crow's Nest or Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium Nidus 

Avis) 

there a tender young frond eaten. Early in 
the morning carefully lift the pot and examine 
the drainage hole, as the slug often lurks in 
such moist places. Sprinkle a little salt over 
the slug. It may also be captured at night 
while at work and destroyed. They are more 

253 



HOUSE PLANTS 

common in greenhouses where the walls are 
rough and damp, but they are discovered not 
infrequently among the house plants. Ashes 




Fig. 106. — A Beautiful Boston Fern (N. Exaltata, var. Boston- 

lENSIs) 

and lime sprinkled over the bottom of the 
bench are an efficient preventive. Ferns should 
receive special care during cold nights, never 

254 



FERN 

allowing a cold draught to reach them. I have 
seen a blanket tacked over the window between 
the ferns and the glass. This prevented any 
chill from striking the plants. 

The following ten cultivated ferns do well in 
the window garden : 

Adiantum croweanum — hardiest of the maidenhair 
ferns. 

Nephrolepis bostoniensis — Boston fern. 

Nephrolepis magnifica. 

Nephrolepis piersoni elegantissima. 

Nephrolepis elegantissima compaeta. 

Nephrolepis scattii. 

Cyrtomium falcatum — holly fern. 

Asplenium nidus avis — bird's nest fern. 

Goniophlebium subaumiculatum — fine for a suspended 
basket in a conservatory. 

There are a number of miscellaneous de- 
signs on the market of aerial ferns, from a fern 
ball to the fantastic arrangement in the shape 
of a monkey hanging by one arm. The scaly 
hare's foot (Davallia bullata) is the only satis- 
factory variety for this type of culture. 

The fern does best in a moist, warm room 
and should receive considerable water. The 

255 



HOUSE PLANTS 

plant requires a rest for at least two months 
each year, after which it may he hrought into 
culture. 

There are also on the market today many 
types and styles of fern dishes. It is most ad- 
visable to secure a fern dish that can be lifted 
out bf the ornamental dish and watered. 
In this way the soil is kept sweet and the 
ferns kept growing, for stagnant water in the 
ornamental dish will soon destroy the tender 
roots. 

There are many combinations of ])lants for 
centerpieces but the following are both orna- 
mental and satisfactory: 

A. Center Maranta vittata;, small plant. 

Pteris wilsoni. 
Pteris adiantoides. 
Cyrtomium f'alcatum. 

B. Dracaena indivisa, small plants. 

Cyrtomium roelifordianum. 
Pteris serrulata. 
Pteris argyraea. 

C. Center a large Asplenium nidus avis, surrounded by 

Pteris nelsoni, P. cretica, Albo-Lineata, Cyrto- 
mium falcatum, Aspidium tsussimense. 

256 



FERN 

There are also combinations with Dracaena 
termenalis, Dieffenbachia ]jicta, crotons and 
many other plants for the center of the dish 
surrounded by small ferns mostly of the Pteris 







Fig. 107. — A Bkautiful Pteris Vfain 

group. Fern dishes should be given an op- 
portunity for air and should never be allowed 
to dry out, as is often the case. After a time 
the ferns may be potted and a new combina- 

257 



HOUSE PLANTS 

tion tried. This will give variety to the dec- 
oration and will also give the ferns time to 
recover from the unnatural condition in which 
they have been living. 

ASPARAGUS FERNS 
Nat. Ord. Liliacece 

The asparagus has derived its name from, A, intensive, 
and sparasso, to tear; in reference to the strong prickles 
of some species. 

The cultivated species were introduced from Southern 
Africa in 1876 and since then have grown raj^idly in 
favor as pot plants and as cut sprays for decorative pur- 
poses. 

The Asparagus sprengeri is an excellent 
plant for window boxes or as an individual 
pot plant. Its drooping habit with a beauti- 
ful profusion of feathery green foliage places 
it in the first rank of house-grown plants. 

The plant may be propagated from seed 
taken from the berries found on the stem. 
After they have turned red allow them to ripen 
and stand three or four weeks before planting. 

258 



FERN 

Cover with sand to twice the diameter of the 
seed. When the seedhn^s are about an inch 
in height transplant into two-inch pots. 
Plants may be divided, but care must be taken 




Fig. 108. — Asparagus Sprengeri 

to split the crown without tearing away all of 
the roots from one of the halves. With a sharp 
knife cut the crown, roots and ball of earth in 
half, loosen the roots a little and repot. The 
Asparagus sprengeri has swollen growths on 

259 



HOUSE PLANTS 

the roots, which contam mostly water. These 
reservoirs are not sufficient to supply the plant 
when the soil is very dry; hence the plant 
should receive a liheral amount of water. The 
soil should be moderately rich, with a little 
sand sifted in. If the plant becomes pot- 
bound the stems grow straggling and the 
needle-like leaves turn yellow and drop off. 
Lack of food and water will act on the plant 
in the same manner. 

A frequent spraying with clear water will 
keep the foliage bright and the plant healthy. 

If the mealy bug should appear submerge 
the plant by holding the pot above the tub, one 
hand over the surface of the soil to prevent it 
from dropping out, and give a thorough wash- 
ing in suds of fish-oil soap or resin fish-oil 
soap. Allow the plant to stand for several 
hours, then spray with clear water. 

The Asparagus sprengeri is a favorite plant 
for hanging baskets, making it appear like a 
feathery mass of emerald green. 

The old spikes or stems should be cut back 
260 



I 



FERN 

from time to time and the new spikes given a 
chance to develop. 

The Asparagus plumosus nanus has a more 
feathery foliage and is used mostly with cut 




Fig. 109. — Asparagus Plumosus Nanus 

flowers, though very attractive pot plants may 
be raised. The only danger is that the stems 
grow long and spindling. The plant should 

261 



HOUSE PLANTS 

be trained on a trellis or tied up and not al- 
lowed to droop. It is attractive in the corner 
of a window in a partly shaded place, the 
fronds trained along the frame of the window. 
Both the sprengeri and plumosus are beau- 
tiful if placed among bright flowering plants. 
They give a light, airy appearance to the win- 
dow garden and cannot be praised too highly. 



CHAPTER XIX 

CACTUS 

Nat. Ord. Cactacece 

The name cactus was given to this semi-spring plant 
by Theophrastus. In 1807 Linnaeus, the father of 
botany, knew but thirty species, while at the present 
time we have between five hundred and six hundred 
varieties. 

There is a story that the Aztecs had been told by a 
prophet to settle at the place where they should find an 
eagle, a serpent and a cactus. This place, it so happened, 
was Santo Domingo, which was founded in 1312. The 
greater number of our cacti come from the burning plains 
of Brazil and Mexico. 

The cactus has become of economic value as food for 
cattle and it has many times saved the lives of men 
who were parched with thirst, by giving drink from its 
watery leaves or stem. 

The cactus in its native habitat is subject to 
alternate seasons of extreme moisture and ex- 
treme droug-ht, so that the plant has evolved 

263 



HOUSE PLANTS 

into a reservoir of moisture to counteract the 
conditions in which it hves. 

It is not necessary to have the heat extreme, 
as some folks think, in order to grow this plant 
of the arid regions with success, but it should 
always have a season of rest in a shady place, 
where the amount of watering may be con- 
trolled. Decrease the water during the resting 
season and also during the winter, and increase 
the amount of water during the flowering 
season. 

The best soil in general is one-half rich light 
garden loam, and one-half white sand. A lit- 
tle cocoa fiber may be added so that proper 
drainage may be insured. The plant can stand 
any amount of sun, but succumbs quickly to 
chills or cold draughts. It should never be 
placed near the windows during the extreme 
cold weather and special care should be taken 
especially during the night. 

Most of the cacti may be propagated by 
breaking off a flat leaf at a joint and rooting 
it in the sand. 

264 



CACTUS 

The Cereus grandiflorus is a celebrated type 
growing from six to twelve feet in height. The 




Fig. 110. — Night-Blooming Cereus at 9:30 P. M. 



flower is sweet-scented and in a few hours after 
opening it closes, never to open again. The 
plant itself is interesting and the flower is al- 

265 



HOUSE PLANTS 

ways something to anticipate. The flower is 
like a huge fairy torchlight and most beauti- 
ful. 

Cereus macdonaldi is the largest bloomer of 
the night-blooming cereus, the flower being 
six to fourteen inches in diameter. 

The phyllocactus group are of the greatest 
interest, having broad flat leaf -like branches. 
The beautiful flowers are produced from the 
indentures along the edge. There are several 
varieties of the phyllocactus, which are satis- 
factory if one is interested in these cactus 
plants : 

Phyllanthus — flower creamy white, a night-blooming 
cereus. 

Phyllanthoides — flower tinted with rose, striped with 
irregular streaks of white. The flower exhales a peculiar 
odor. 

Hookeii — flower white and fragrant. 

The Epiphyllium or crab's claw cactus is by 
far the most commonly grown, and among the 
most desirable for house plants. The flowers 
are borne on the ends of the leaflike branches 

266 



CACTUS 

and are of the most brilliant colors. They re- 
quire a richer soil than the others, plenty of 




Fig. 111. — Night-Bluoming CEUiJus at 4:30 A. M. 



clean air, water and sunshine but during- the 
winter months the watering must be carefully 
regulated. 

267 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The Truncatum is among the best growers 
in this group and the best for home culture. 

Many of the larger types are stored in a dry 
cellar during the winter, protected from frost 
and gas. In the early spring they are brought 
to light, the dust is washed off by syringe 
and water is applied to the soil. The flowers 
appear in the month of June and later. 

The cactus can stand many hardships, but 
it should receive as much care as the other 
])lants in ordei' to reap the best harvest of 
bloom and develop the plant to a satisfactory 
and pleasing appearance. 



CHAPTER XX 

VINES 

MADEIRA VINE 

Nat. Ord. Chenopodiacece 

This beautiful climbing tuberous-rooted 
plant is a native of the Andes. It is a rapid 
grower and profuse bloomer if given a rich 
loose garden loam, sufficient water and sun- 
shine. It is propagated by the division of 
roots or by seed. 

ENGLISH IVY (HEDERA HELIX) 

Nat. Ord. Araliacece 

This hardy ivy has long been a favorite for 
out-of-door use as well as the window garden. 
It requires rich soil and considerable water and 
will do well with a limited amount of sunshine. 

269 



HOUSE PLANTS 

The variegated varieties are more tender than 
the green leaf variety and require a higher 
temperature. This vine is easily propagated 
by cuttings. 

GERMAN IVY (SENECIA SCANDENS) 
Nat. Ord. Compositce 

This beautiful ivy is easily trained about the 
window. Give it the same temperature as the 
English ivy but increase the sunlight. It is 
often infested by aphis and should be dusted 
on the under side of the leaves with tobacco 
powder. 

CUP AND SAUCER FLOWER (COBAEA 
SCANDENS) 

Nat. Ord. Polemoniacece 

This vine is a fast-growing climber, a na- 
tive of IMexico. If the seed is sown in mid- 
winter, the plants summered out of doors, 
pruned back and potted in September, it 
. 270 



VINES 

makes a most desirable flowering plant as well 
as a fine climber. 

It is advisable to set the cobaea seed edge- 




FiG. 112. — A Pot of German Ivt 



wise in the soil. The beautiful festoon of foli- 
age during the winter months is most attrac- 
tive. 

271 



HOUSE PLANTS 

THUNBERGIA ALATA 
Nat. Ord. Acanthacece 



i 



This handsome climbing plant is a half- 
hardy annual. If the seed is sown in August 
it will produce a fine plant during the winter 
for ornamental purposes, to be trained over 
trellises or arranged about the window. The 
plant does best in a temperature of 70° to 75° 
and should have a liberal supply of rich gar- 
den loam, water and sunshine. 

NASTURTIUM 
Nat. Ord. ConvolvulaceoB 

This old favorite is propagated from seed, 
which should be planted in the window box or 
pot and should never be disturbed. 

The soil should be rich and a free supply of 
water and sunshine are necessary for the best 
results. 

The nasturtium leaf withers if allowed to be 
272 



VINES 

vvhip])e(l by the wind, as often happens with 
the plants grown in window boxes. Ventila- 
tion is necessary but draughts and winds are 
detrimental to growth. Plants should produce 
bloom two months after seeding. 

SAXIFRAGA SARMENTOSA 

Nat. Ord. Sajcifragaceae 

There are over a hundred and fifty species 
of this plant. The Saxifraga sarmentosa is a 
native of China and is commonly used for 
hanging baskets. It is propagated by rooting 
the young plants that appear on the ends of 
the long stolons that hang from the parent 
plant. 

The plant requires a rich soil and a free sup- 
ply of water and light. It will stand a low 
temperature, but not freezing. Its flower is 
spider-shaped, very interesting and delicate. 



273 



HOUSE PLANTS 

TRADESCANTIA 

Nat. Ord. Commelynacece 

The tradescantia was named in honor of John Trade- 
scant, gardener to Charles I., who introduced the first 
specimen to Europe. 

The aquatica and others are known everywhere as "The 
Wandering Jew." 

Some of the species come from the north and from 
tropical America. 

The window garden would hardly be com- 
plete without the old-fashioned Wandering 
Jew. 

It is easily propagated from cuttings at any 
season of the year and will grow in water and 
soil alike. It is a most desirable plant for edg- 
ing a window box, especially in a shady place, 
or the edge of a hanging basket. 

The soil should not be rich, but light, and 
always with a free supply of water. 

If the foliage becomes yellow and sickly the 
plant is probably pot-bound, or there may be 
gas in the room. Repot and pinch back. 

It is advisable to start new plants at the end 
274 



VINES 




Fig. 113. — A Hanging Basket of Tradescantia or Wandering 

Jew 
The drooping stems are six feet long. 



of each summer, so as to have fresh, vigorous 
stock for winter culture. 

275 



HOUSE PLANTS 

If the stems become straggling it is best tc 
pinch them back and then the stem will branch |! 
and the foliage will cover both the surface and 
the sides of the pot or basket. 

Zebrina is one of the best varieties and 
thrives in a moist, shady place. The leaf is a 
dark green, striped with silvery bands. 

Multicolor has a straggling habit, with light 
green foliage, variegated with white and pink 
stripes; very beautiful. 

Other satisfactory varieties for the sitting- 
room are: 

Repens — white, striped variety. 

Vittata. 

Aquatica — fine for water culture. 

VINCA 

Nat. Ord. ApocynaceoB 

The Vinca major variegata is one of the 
finest plants for hanging baskets, vases, porch 
and window boxes. The rich, shining green, 
edged with white, gracefully drooping over the 

276 



VINES 



edge of the window box and late in the season 
adding to its beauty with a pale blue flower, 
makes it a most desirable house plant. 



I 




Fig. 114. — The (Jraceful Vinca Major Variegata- 

There are two ways of propagating the 
vinca. The more common way is by division. 
Take the plant from the pot and with a sharp 

277 



HOUSE PLANTS 



i 



knife split the crown, shake off the soil and 
separate the roots by hand. ^ 

The other way is by cuttings of the soft 
wood. Make the cut at the leaf or node, re- 
moving four leaves close to the stem with a 
sharp knife. The cutting should not be over 
two inches in length. Place in sand and in 
about three weeks roots will begin to form. 

The vinca is practically free from disease, 
but it often turns thin and yellow by becoming 
pot-bound. Examine the roots. If they are 
massed tightly in the pot, split the crown or 
remove part of the roots at the bottom of the 
clump and loosen roots about the outside. 
Then repot in garden loam, rich in well de- 
cayed horse or cow manure. A little chicken 
manure added to the soil will give good results. 

Aphides are common on the young shoots. 
They may be controlled by dusting with Pyre- 
thrum or tobacco dust. 

The other variety desirable for home use is 
the Vinca harrisonii. It has pale green in the 
center of leaf, blocked with white. 

278 



VINES 

JASMINUM 

Nat. Orel. OleccB 

The jasmine, or ysmynm as it is called in the Arabic, 
was introduced in 1629 from the East Indies. 

It is the Arab's love flower and it symbolized long af- 
fection between sweethearts. At one time it was a soft 
pink, as delicate as the down, but on the night of the 
Crucifixion it turned white from the pain and agony 
which it endured as the Christ hung upon the Cross. Its 
delicate fragrance has stimulated the poets to dream of 
tenderness and love, while to others it is a symbol of sad- 
n'ess. 

There are several species of the jasminum 
which are suited for the home or conservatory 
culture during the winter or for climbing- about 
on a support during the summer in shady spots 
on the porch or veranda. 

The plant is easily propagated from cut- 
tings made the latter part of March and will 
develop to good-sized plants the first season. 

The soil should be a combination of two 
parts garden loam, one part shredded cow ma- 
nure and one part decayed sod. A little sharp 

279 



HOUSE PLANTS 

sand should also be added to insure the light- 
ness and drainage of the soil. 

The plant should be cut back to stimulate 
new growth, especially during the fall, so that 
a good supply of young shoots are formed for 
winter flowering. 

The Jasminum grandiflorum, which is one of 
the best known winter-flowering varieties, suc- 
cumbs easily to frost. It requires a fair 
amount of sunshine and a liberal supply of 
water. 

The plant should be sprayed with water with 
the chill taken off* on clear days during the 
growing season. A warm, moist atmosphere is 
the best for its growth. 

Plant lice are common visitors to the jasmi- 
num and should be destroyed as soon as they 
appear by dusting with tobacco or Pyrethrum, 
or spraying with Black Leaf 40. 

The Jasminum gracillimum is beautiful in a 
lianging basket; the flower is white and large, 
while the foliage is small and a bright green. 

The Jasminum revolutum has a very fra- 
280 



VINES 

grant yellow flower scattered through the dark 
evergreen foliage. The plant is a climbing 
shrub and most satisfactory in a pot or a 
bracket and trained about a window. 

The graceful habit of this plant, the freedom 
and fragrance of the flower, make it most de- 
sirable for house culture. 



1 



CHAPTER X:^I 

PORCH AND WINDOW BOXES 

THE BEST PLANTS AND THEIR 
ARRANGEMENT 

If you cannot secure proper soil and healthy 
plants and if it is inconvenient to apply the 
necessary water at the proper time it is better 
to give up the idea of window or porch garden- 
ing before you start. 

Window and porch boxes vary in size as 
much as opinions vary. The length of the box 
does not matter so long as it is in keeping with 
the size of the window or the shape and posi- 
tion of the porch, but the depth does matter 
greatly. No window or porch box should be 
less than six inches deep and greater success 
is insured if the depth is from ten to twelve 
inches. 

282 



I 



I 



PORCH AND WINDOW BOXES 

A number of half-inch holes should be made 
in the bottom of the box to let out the surplus 
water and to admit air, which aids in keeping 
the soil sweet and the root system healthy. 




Fig. 115. — An Artistic Porch Box and Lattice 
Shrubs planted in front of this porch would add much to its beauty. 



The width of the boxes may vary from nine to 
eighteen inches. 

To fill them place pieces of crock over the 
holes in the bottoms of the boxes to insure 
proper drainage, then put in two inches of 

283 



HOUSE PLANTS 

well-rotted cow or horse manure mixed with a 
little soil. Fill the box to within an inch of 
the top with a rich soil, preferably from a com- 
post heap. 




Fig. 116. — A Winddw Box with Ciooo Lines, But Pookly Filled 



Several conditions are to be considered with 
reference to the types of ])lants used. For a 
box placed in the shade one of the best vines to 
use is the Vinca major variegata, sometimes 
called periwinkle or myrtle. Another vine that 
has given great satisfaction in shady places is 
^ 284 



PORCH AND WINDOW BOXES 

the Asparagus sprengeri, which gives a feath- 
ery appearance to the edge of the box. 

In the center place a well-grown Dracaenas 
indivisa, with a geranium or fuchsia on each 
side and a rex begonia at each end. Scatter 
ferns over the remaining spots of bare soil, 
fitting in varieties such as the Pteris Wilsoni 
(crested fern), Crytomium falcatum (holly 
fern), and Pteris argyraea and Pteris cretica. 
The ferns blend beautifully and intermingle 
their delicate colors with the foliage of the be- 
gonia and young spikes of the vinca. 

Boxes placed in the sun or in part shade 
may be filled in various ways, using dracaenas 
for the center and on each side geraniums of 
one color such as the Alphonse Riccard, ver- 
milion scarlet, or M. Anatole Roseleur, rose 
pink. The edges of the boxes are best covered 
by the graceful vinca. Many types of plants 
are suitable for window or porch boxes, but 
you must guard against clashes of color and 
must have vigorous plants. 

When it is possible to secure well rotted cow 
285 



HOUSE PLANTS 

manure chop it up fine and add it to the sur- 
face of the soil as a mulch that will aid in re- 
taining moisture and will add fertilizer. 

The watering of the boxes is of the greatest 
importance. As spring advances watering 




-Sod Steps BAi^ANtED on each Side by Artistic- 
Porch Boxes 
Photograph Taken in the Fall. 

should be done later each day until finally dur- 
ing the summer months all moisture should be 
applied after sundown. Do not simply sprinkle 
water over the surface of the foliage and soil; 
make sure that the soil is well saturated, but 
never make it soggy. The number of times to 

286 



I 



PORCH AND WINDOW BOXES 

water depends upon the situation of the box, 
the soil, the type of plants, the wind, and so on. 
The only insect enemy that does much dam- 
age to plants in boxes is the green aphis. The 




Fig. 118. — An Artistic Entrance, Dracaenas, Geraniums and 

ViNCAS IN THE BoXES 



plant lice suck the sap from the leaves and 
cause them to curl. When the aphides appear 
dust the under sides of the foliage with to- 
bacco dust. After a few hours syringe the 

287 



HOUSE PLANTS 

i:)lant thoroughly with water, which will wash 
off the (lead insects. 

If window or porch boxes are properly filled 
with plants in keeping with this type of gar- 
dening, and the plants are given proper care, 
there is nothing that will add so much to the 
beauty of the house as this style of exterior 
decoration. 



CHAPTER XXII 

HANGING BASKETS 

There are many kinds of hanging baskets, 
from the "Illinois," which has a reservoir, never 
drips, and may be supplied with water only 




Fig. 119. — Hanging Baskets Add Beauty to this Entrance 

289 



HOUSE PLANTS 

once a week, to the Avire basket so common for 
porch use. There are crock baskets, made of 




Fig. 120. — Hanging Basket before Filling 

the same material as flowerpots, in a number of 
sizes and designs. The common wire basket 
is best lined with moss and then filled with 

290 



HANGING BASKETS 

one-half garden loam and one-half shredded 
manure, well decayed. Both should be thor- 
oughly mixed. 

The greatest failure in hanging baskets 
comes from lack of water. It must be remem- 
bered that the contact with the air on all sides, 
with only the moss between the air and the soil, 
is severely drying. On hot days baskets should 
be given a watering by being submerged in a 
vessel filled with water for fifteen or twenty 
minutes in the evening, or watered slowly from 
the top, letting the water find its way into 
the soil and not allowing it to run off the sur- 
face. 

The following combinations of plants are 
very pretty in baskets: 

A 

Center 
Fuchsia 
Heliotrope 
Flowering and leaf begonias 

Border 

Asparagus sprengeri and Vinca auria 
291 



HOUSE PLANTS 

B 




Center 

Dracaenas 
Geraniums 
Petunias 

Border 

Senecio or German ivy 
Vinca variegated 

c 

Center 

P and an us 
Small palms 
Ferns 
Begonia rex 

Border 

Saxifraga 

D 
Center 

Pelargonium 

Oxalis 

Coleus 

Border 

Lobelia and saxifraga 

There are many other combinations that are 
satisfactory, but the amateur should consider 
the habits and colors of the plants when com- 
bining them. 

292 



HANGING BASKETS 



BASKETS 



Ornamental baskets are often filled artisti- 
cally with various combinations similar to those 
used in the hanging baskets. If the basket is 




Fig. 1'21. — Hanging Basket after Filijno 

Uracju'iia indivisa in the center, geraniums, coleus, jietunias, German 

ivy and vinca variegata. 

293 



HOUSE PLANTS 

to be kept in a room, line the inside with heavy 
paj^er or moss. It should always be placed in 
a vessel that will retain water, otherwise the 




Fig. 122. — A Well Filled Basket 

In the center the Dracaena indivisa, geraniums and petunias filling 

in and German ivy and vinca hanging over the sides. 

bottom of the basket will mark the object on 
which it stands. 

The following combinations are advised in 
art baskets : 

294 



HANGING BASKETS 

A 

Center 

Dracaena terininalis 
Tuberous-root begonias in bloom 

■ Medium-sized crotons, leaves brilliantly colored 

Bordei- 

Saxifraga or vinca 

B 

Center 

■ Dracaena massangeana 
^ Crotons 

Small ferns : Amerpoehlii ; Whitmani ; Cyrtomium 
falcatum (holly fern) ; Pteris serrulata cristata 

Border 

German ivy and vinca 

C 

Center 

A large plant of Asparagus plumosus, allowing the 

spikes to circle the handle 
Crotons 

Adiantum cuneatum 
Adiantum farleyenses or Adiantum rhodophyllum 

Border 
Lobelia 

There is no end of combinations with flower- 
m ing plants and ferns or ferns with palms. 

295 



CHAPTER XXIII 

SEASONAL CARE OF PLANTS 

SPRING 

Usually when the woods flowers appear in 
May we feel that it is time for us to put our 
house plants out of doors, but in many parts 
of the country the first of June is early enough. 
All danger of frost should be past. Should a 
threatening cold night warn you, cover the 
])lants with a sheet; gradually the plants will 
become hardened to their new environment and 
will live without too great susceptibility to tem- 
perature changes. Do not neglect the plants 
after they have been moved out of doors, 
for the spring brings with it a host of enemies, 
which should be watched for and destroyed. 
Disease often appears with several days of 
muggy weather. Rose plants, especially, 
sliould be gi\ en tlic greatest care. 

200 



SEASONAL CARE OF PLANTS 



I 




Fig. 123. — The Exteriok View of an Attractive Bay Window 
Always a bloom, always a thought. 

It is always advisable after the plant has 
made some healthy growth to take cuttings for 
a new generation, so that the young plant will 

297 



HOUSE PLANTS 

reach a favorable size and shape before fall. 
The plants will then give immediate results, 
and make the window look attractive from the 
start. 

It seems to be human nature to regard 
with a greater interest a beautifully shaped 
plant about to bloom, than a young plant with 
only a promise of bloom. The out-of-door de- 
velopment of young plants is more favorable 
than the window culture. Do not destroy cut- 
tings; if you cannot use them, give them away 
to your neighbor or the schoolchildren. Some- 
one has said that "a country is known by its 
children." I venture to saj^ that a home is 
known by the care of house plants. 

Do not throw away the broken pots, for they 
will be useful in the fall. Wash the used pots, 
place them in a clean, dry place, so that they 
will be ready for fall use. Dirty pots left over 
summer are usually neglected in the fall when 
they are in demand. Pots should be soaked in 
a tub for a couple of days, so as to loosen the 
dirt from the pores, which should be oj^en. 

298 



SEASONAL CARE OF PLANTS 

Build the compost heap for the following year 
and keep a growing interest as spring wanes 
into summer. 

SUMMER 

Plants should be protected from the direct 
rays of the sun, especially the house plant for 
winter flowering. With some varieties it is 
best to remove them from the pot and give 
them freedom in the development of roots, but 
with such plants as the palms it is best to 
plunge the pots. Put about an inch of ashes 
and a little lime in the bottom of the trench, 
and this will prevent the earthworm from find- 
ing a way through the drainage hole into the 
pot. It will also insure proper drainage, which 
is of the greatest importance. 

Where the plants are in tubs near the porch 
or on the veranda they should be put out for a 
bath during warm rains, or sprayed often. 
They should also be watered when necessary, 
care being taken not to wash the soil out of 
the pot if the hose is used. Watch for the red 

299 



HOUSE PLANTS 

spider and other pests and give the plants 
prompt attention. 

FALL 

September is usually the month to bring 
many of the plants in. The dead foliage 
should be removed, and the plant should, from 
previous pruning, be well shaped. Care should 
be exercised in rejiotting not to use too large 
a pot and always use the proper soil, for your 
plants are to live and succeed in this limited 
space. Earthworms should be removed and 
the plants should be cleaned of any possible 
insect that might have escaped our eye during 
the summer. The room should receive as much 
ventilation as possible, but never a draught of 
cold bleak air. We must keep in mind the con- 
ditions out of doors, and the change from gar- 
den to liouse conditions should be made as 
gradual as j)()s.sible. 

Pots should be set level, so that tlie water 
will moisten all of th.e soil. Go very sparingly 
with the food at the beginning; the soil is fresh 

300 



SEASONAL CARE OF PLANTS 

and rich and there is usually about as much 
food as can be properly assimilated by the 
plant. It should be trained for the desired 
shape when young and not twisted or bent into 
position when old. The cells are easily injured 
and the beauty of the plant impaired. 



WINTER 

The prevailing whiteness of this season gives 
the lovers of plants a hungry desire for the 
touch of green which may be realized in 
the window garden or conservatory. Winter 
brings with it all the perils to tender plant life 
and even the hardy plants are rocked to sleep 
by the late fall winds. I wish it were possible 
not to use a coal stove or gas stove in the room 
where the plants are grown. If this is neces- 
sary always have a vessel of water on the stove. 
Even where a furnace is used water should be 
placed in the room. 

The evening is the time to shut off the heat 
from the bedroom, but do not forget the win- 

301 



HOUSE PLANTS 

dow garden, and turn all the heat possible in 
its favor. The temperature should be lower 
in the evening than during the day, but never 
below 40°. It is as necessary for the plants to 
sleep in order to develop strong bodies as it is 
for the human to sleep, and too much heat will 
keep them awake. Remove dead leaves and 
flowers when they appear, for these are the 
death signs of a plant, inviting insects and 
disease. 

Draughts from the M'indows or doors should 
be guarded against ; blinds should be closed in 
the evening, as they will ward off cold and 
penetrating winds. Felt strips may be used 
over the cracks. The storm windows shut out 
the winds, but they also obstruct and diminish 
the value of the sun's rays. They are not ad- 
visable for window gardens. On severe nights 
newspapers may be placed between the win- 
dow and the plants, for they keep off the in- 
tense chill which comes from the glass as well 
as from the joints. Windows should not be 
nailed, for on bright days, with the tempera- 

302 



SEASONAL CARE OF PLANTS 

ture above freezing, ventilate the room, using 
discretion as to amount of air admitted and 
length of time. Plants cannot stand bad air, 
and they should never be kept in a sleeping- 
room during the night, for they consume the 
fresh air and give out carbon dioxide, which 
is detrimental to the health of the individual 
using the room. Sunlight is at a premium 
during the winter months, and the plants 
should be given every possible advantage, the 
pot being turned frequently so that the plant 
does not develop one-sided. On these lowering 
days of the winter the water should be de- 
creased, but the plant should never suffer from 
drought. Those in hanging baskets or on 
brackets need more water than plants on 
benches. Protect the plants from dust and do 
not crowd them. Better have a few beautiful 
specimens admired by everyone than a great 
number of infirm and unattractive plants. The 
plants should be bathed often, especially on 
bright, clear days; sponge in the morning, so 
that the foliage may dry off before evening. 

303 



HOUSE PLANTS 

If your plants have been so unfortunate as to 
get frozen, do not throw them out, but place 
them in a cool room, temperature between 34° 
and 38°. Spray eight to ten times a day with 



r- — 






:"j:^(l]Q^g|| ^lyg^ ijjl^^ 







Fig. 124. — The Interior of an Attractive Window Garden 



cold water — never warm — and keep the plant 
in this dark, cool room for three to five days, 
and gradually bring it into the heat. Remove 
all parts not restored and give the plant special 
care. 

Do not throw your dishwater on your plants 
304 



SEASONAL CARE OF PLANTS 

as has been sometimes recommended. The 
soap (lye) and the grease are detrimental to 
the health. Also eliminate all traditional medi- 
cines, such as tea, coffee, beer, etc., for the 
plant will never accustom itself to such bad 
habits. There is no value in such beverages 
for plants. 

There has been much question and debate as 
to the proper exposure. From my own ex- 
perience I have had the greatest success with 
plants on the southeastern exposure, but most 
species will reach a stage of success wherever 
they are given sufficient sunshine and proper 
care. 

There is a refining influence in the culture 
of plants, and we strengthen our faith by con- 
tact with the soil with all its wonders and possi- 
bilities. The more one studies plants the 
stronger grows the conviction in the heart that 
plants have many of the same attributes that 
humans have. They are harder to under- 
stand, for they are so silent in their work, from 
their wedding hour of bloom until the birth of 

305 



HOUSE PLANTS 

their children, the seed ; and even in death there 
is no complaint, regret or sighing. They are 
silent, though they tell us of their needs. The 
first principle of success in growing plants is 
to plant your heart in the soil and let the roots 
caress it. Love your plants, give them watch- 
ful care, discipline them as kindly as you would 
a child, and always remember they are alive 
and working. 



I 



CHAPTER XXIV 

HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS 

There are many combinations of plants 
that are suitable for a sunny window. For a 
solid green collection the Ficus elastica (rub- 
ber plant), palms, Kentia forsteriana, Kentia 
belmoreana, Areca lutescens. Cocoa meddlei- 
ana, Phoenix roebelenii and along the inner 
edge a few well-developed plants of Aspidistra 
lurida variegata. Ananas (variegated pineap- 
ple), Aralia elegantissima, and Vinca vines 
drooping over the edge of the bench. 

Such flowering plants as the fuchsia, gera- 
niums, pelargoniums, heliotrope, mignonette, 
stevia, combined with a few plants of Farfu- 
gium grande, Maranto vittata and Vinca make 
a beautiful combination. 

For shady windows, several of the dra- 
caenas, diefFenbachias, the adeantum, nephro- 

307 



HOUSE PLANTS 

lepis, pteris and polypodium ferns may be ar- 
ranged among" the rex begonias. Taste as 
well as judgment should be used in the combi- 
nation of plants, according to the environment 
in which the plants must live. Vines of various 
kinds add beauty to the winter gardens. 

Fertilizers should be kept on hand. The 
liquid manure barrel should always be some 
distance from the house and protected from 
insects. Do not feed your flowering plants 
pieces of beefsteak or your ferns oysters. It 
takes some time for both to decay and become 
available as plant food, and it is not sanitary. 
Cigar butts and ashes should not be kept 
around plants ; they are poor fertilizer, and not 
at all attractive. Plant food tablets as sold 
by florists and seedsmen are reliable. 

Insecticides should be protected from damp- 
ness. Place the tobacco dust, Paris green, 
powdered arsenate, Pyrethrum, etc., in air- 
tight tin cans. Do not fail to keep a supply of 
insecticides close at hand, so as to check the in- 
sects as soon as they are discovered. 

308 



HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS 

Fungicides, such as flowers of sulphur, 
should always be kept from moisture. Don't 
be afraid to use it often on roses and especially 
on damp days. 

Cultivation. The surface of the soil should 
be cultivated often with a fork or sharp stick. 
Do not go more than a quarter of an inch be- 
low the surface so as not to disturb the roots. 
Cultivation helps to preserve the moisture and 
keep the soil sweet. 

Watering-pots should be light, durable and 
having a long spout so as easily to reach the 
pots without straining. The nozzle should 
have small holes when used to water a seed bed 
and larger holes when used for pots. If care 
is taken, no nozzle is necessary in watering pot 
plants. Do not allow the water to lodge on 
the sill, for it will soon cause decay. A small 
strip of wood, tacked tightly between the win- 
dow box and the sill, will prevent decay of the 
sill. Pots should always be level before water- 
ing. 

Saucers should be used under the pots to 
309 



HOUSE PLANTS 

prevent dripping, but water should never be 
allowed to become stagnant in them. Jardi- 
nieres should be washed with warm water once 
a week and both the plant and pot exposed to 
the sun for a few hours. 

Brackets may be secured at any hardware 
store and are very satisfactory if placed at in- 
tervals on the window casings. Do not place 
heavy pots on the bracket to cause it to sag. 
Always use a saucer under the pot if placed 
on a bracket so as to prevent the water from 
dripping on the other plants below. Such 
plants as tradescantia, saxifraga, vinca and 
Asparagus sprengeri are beautiful on brackets. 

Pots and pans should be kept on hand in 
various sizes. They should always be kept 
clean and stored in a dry cellar or shed. A 
board should be placed between the soil and 
the pot in the storeroom to prevent decay ; the 
red clay disintegrates very quickly if kept 
moist. Do not paint the pots outside or in. 

Stands, both wooden and iron, should be 
stored in a dry place when not in use. Clean 

310 



HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS 

and paint in the fall. The stands should be 
light and plants should always be removed be- 




FiG. 125. — The King Adjustable Plant Stand Suitable for 
Conservatories 

fore shifting the stand. Do not try to move 
the stand and pot at the same time. 

Trellises should be painted each fall so as 
311 



HOUSE PLANTS 

to have them fresh and clean when brought 
into the house. A dark green is more desirable 
than a white. Don't fail to support all weak- 
stemmed plants. Care must be taken not to 
injure the stem or roots when fitting the trellis 
in the box or pot. 

Sprayers and syringes should be kept dry 
and clean and always ready for use. After 
using an insecticide or fungicide wash out the 
sprayer with clean water. Do not buy cheap 
syringes to fight such insects as the red spider. 
A strong brass syringe should be provided so 
as to impart a strong force to the water. Have 
one place to keep the sprayers and always put 
them back after using. 

Knife. Do not buy a cheap knife, but one 
made of good steel. It is necessary to have it 
sharp in order to make the best cuttings. A 
dull knife tears the cells. 

Raffia is the best material for tying plants 
and may be secured from any seed store. It is 
broad and there is less danger of cracking the 
stem than with string. 

312 



HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS 

Window boxes should be painted inside and 
out once a year. Brackets should be used to 
support the box and keep it level, so that the 
water may be distributed evenly over the soil. 
Pans should be placed under window boxes, if 
used indoors, to prevent dripping of water on 
the floor and on the foliage of the other plants. 
Window boxes should receive fresh soil once a 
year and the plants be changed. 

Table decorations, such as fern plants and 
pot plants, should be placed in the sunlight two 
to three hours each day, and in this way the 
plant is revived and will last much longer. 
Crowded fern pans will not last more than two 
months. 

Keep your plants free from dead leaves and 
faded blooms. Never allow seed to develop. 
Do not allow the pots to become coated with 
moss. Do not buy cheap plants. Better have 
a few fine specimens than many sickly ones. 

Plants should be moved back from the win- 
dows on extreme cold nights, but should not be 
put on radiators or over registers. 

313 



INDEX 



Abutillon, 71, 147 

botanical classification of, 
147 

breeding of, 150 

culture of, 149, 150 

feeding for, 150 

history of, 147 

soil for, 150 

varieties of, 150, 151 
Adeantum, 307 
Agave, 201 

botanical classification of, 
201 

history of, 201, 202 

general culture of, 203, 204 

propagation of, 203 
Agriculture, 8 
Amaryllis, 111 

botanical classification of, 
111 

culture of, 113 

feeding for, 113 

history of. 111, 112 

soil for, 112 

value of, 112 

varieties of, 114 
Ammonia, 41 
Ananas, 307 
Aphides, 54, 60, 81 
Apple tree, 63 
Aralia elegantissima, 307 



Araucaria, 192 

botanical classification of, 
192 

general culture of, 193, 194 

history of, 192 

soil for, 192 

varieties of, 194 
Areca lutescens, 307 
Arsenate of lead, 61 
Arsenate powder, 61, 308 
Ashes, 25, 308 
Asparagus ferns, 258 

botanical classification of, 
258 

culture of, 259, 260, 261 

history of, 258 

propagation of, 258 

varieties of, 262 
Asparagus plumosus, 72 
Asparagus sprengeri, 63, 72, 

310 
Aspidistra, 199, 307 

botanical classification of, 
199 

general culture of, 200, 201 

history of, 199 

propagation of, 199 

soil for, 199, 200 

varieties of, 201 
Atmosphere, 13 
Auditorium, 6 



315 



INDEX 



Azalia, 177 
botanical classification of, 

177 
general culture of, 178, 179, 

180, 181 
history of, 177 
insects which infest, 180, 181 

control of, 181 
removing buds from, 178 
summer treatment for, 179 
varieties of, 183 

Bacterial diseases, 4fi 
Basket, 20 

Baskets, hanging and orna- 
mental, 289, 293 
causes of failure of, 291 
lining, 290, 291 
flower combinations for, 
291, 292 
for ornamental, 295 
wire, 290 
Bath, 43, 45 
Bathtub, 58 
Bay window, 12 
Beefsteak, 38 
Begonia seed, 35 
Begonia (Rex), 63, 70, 72, 
184, 308 
botanical classification of, 

184 
culture of, 188, 189, 190, 

191 
history of, 184 
manures for, 186 
propagation of, 187 
soil for, 184, 186 



Begonia (Rex), varieties of, 

191, 192 
Benches, 13 
Black leaf, 40, 55 
Blackberry, 63 
Bone dust, 39, 40 
Bone fertilizers, 39 

coarse cracked, 39 

coarse ground, 39, 40 
Bone meal, 18, 39 
Bordeaux mixture, 48, 52 
Boston fern, 72 
Bouvardia, 197 

botanical classification of, 
197 

general culture of. 197, 198 

history of, 197 

propagation of, 198 

seasons for, 198 

varieties of, 199 
Bowkcr's ]ilant food, 41 
Boxes, porch and window, 282 

arrangement of plants for, 
284, 285 

construction of, 283 

general treatment for, 285, 
286, 287, 288 

size of, 282, 283 
Brackets, 310, 313 
Brass syringe, 312 
Bucket, 58 
Budding, 63 
Bulb pans, 23 

Cactus, 37, 263 

botanical classification of, 
263 



316 



INDEX 



Cactus, general culture of, 
263, 3fi4, 265 

history of, 263 

soil for, 264 

varieties of, 266, 26T, 268 
Calceolaria seed, 35 
Calla lily, 99 

bloom of, 102 

botanical classification of, 
99 

general culture of, 101 

history of, 99 

insects which infest, 102, 103 
control of, 103 

manure for, 99, 100 

propagation of, 102 

soil for, 99 

storage of, 102 

varieties of, 103 
Carnations, 6, 72, 168 

botanical classification of, 
168 

diseases of, 171 

history of, 168 

insects which infest, 170, 171 
control of, 171 

potting of, 169 

propagation of, 168 

soil for, 169 

summer treatment for, 169, 
170 

varieties of, 171 
Carpet sweeper, 42 
Cellar, 12, 77 
Charcoal, 24 
Cheesecloth, 69 
Chemical fertilizers, 41 



Chicken manure, 19, 20 

Chinese lily, 79 

Chinese primrose, 71, 160 

general culture of, 160, 161 

propagation of, 160 

season for, 161 

soil for, 160, 161 

varieties of, 162 
Chrysanthemums, 41, 63, 72, 
217 

botanical classification of, 
217 

culture of, 220, 221, 222, 
223 

disbudding of, 220, 221 

diseases of, 222 

history of, 217 

insects which infest, 222, 223 
control of, 223 

propagation of, 218, 219 

soil for, 219 

varieties of, 223, 224 
Church, 6 
Cigar butts, 308 
Cineraria, 72, 131 

botanical classification oj, 
131 

causes of failure and suc- 
cess of, 133 

culture of, 132, 133 

insects which infest, 133 

soil for, 132 

varieties of, 134 
Clay, 17 

Coarse cracked bone meal, 39 
Coarse ground bone meal, 39, 
40 



317 



INDEX 



Cocoa weddelliana, 307 
Coleus, 204 

botanical classification of, 

204 
culture of, 205 
history of, 204 
insects which infest, 206, 
207, 208 
control of, 208 
propagation of, 204 
Commercial fertilizers, 39 
Compost, 14, 15, 20, 40, 74 
Conservatories, 6, 12, 13, 54, 

64 
Copper, 48 

Cow manure, 19, 20, 38, 73 
Crock, 23, 24 
Cultivation, 309 
Cultural art, 1 
Cup and saucer flowers, 270 
botanical classification of, 

270 
general culture of, 270, 271 
Cuttings, 30, 38, 63, 69, 70, 71 
Cyclamen, 72, 105 
botanical classification of, 

105 
general culture of, 107, 108, 

109 
history of, 105 
season for, 108 
soil for, 107 
value of, 106 

Damp, 18 
Dance halls, 6 
Decay, 69 



DiefFenbachias, 307 

Diseases, 46, 49, 50, 51, 52 

Dishwater, 14 

Divisions, 63 

Downy mildew, 46 

Dracaena, 194 
botanical classification of, 

194 
history of, 194, 195 
soil for, 195 

summer treatment for, 196 
ornamental value of, 195 
washing of, 195, 196 
varieties of, 196, :197 

Draft, 35, 50, 81 

Drainage, 14, 24, 25, 37 

Drought, 50 

Dust, 42, 43, 45, 54 

Dutch bulbs, 78 

Earthworm, 50 
Easter lily, 95 

botanical classification of, 
95 

decorative value of, 95 

history of, 95 

general culture of, 97, 98 

soil for, 96 

storage of, 97 

varieties of, 98 
Elastic sprinkler, 42 
Elements, 13 
English ivy, 72, 269 

botanical classification of, 
269 

general culture of, 269, 270 

propagation of, 270 



318 



INDEX 



Eureka hangers, 31 
Expense, 8 
Exposure, 5 

Fall, 300 

enemies to watch for in the, 
300 

general advice for, 300, 301 
Farfugium grande, 307 
Fermentation, 18 
Ferns, 15, 63, 246 

combinations for fern pans, 
256, 257 

general culture of, 249, 250, 
251, 252, 253, 254 

history of, 246 

insects which infest, 253, 254 
control of 253, 254 

slugs as enemies of, 253. 
254 

soil for, 251 

varieties of, 255 

wood varieties for the home, 
247, 248 
Fern pans, 23 
Fertilene, 40 
Fertility, 13 
Fertilizers, 38, 308 
Fiber, 20 
Fir-tree oil, 56 
Fish-oil soap, 58 
Flaw, 52 
Flower pots, 23 
Flowering begonia, 71, 72 
Flowering plants, 22 
Foliage plants, 22 
Fork, 34 



Freesia, 109 

botanical classification of, 
109 

culture of, 109, 110 

history of, 109 

soil for, 109 

value as a house plant, 
110 

varieties of, 110 
Friable soil, 17 
Fuchsia, 37, 72, 127, 307 

botanical classification of, 
127 

general culture of, 129, 130 

history of, 127 

insects which infest, 130 

seasons of, 130 

soil for, 128 

varieties of, 130, 131 
Fumigation, 54 
Fungi, 18, 46, 48, 63, 71 
Fungicides, 309, 312 

Garbage, 14 
Garden, 12, 13 
Garden loam, 14, 20 
Gases, 13, 31, 50, 78, 301 
Geranium (Crane's Bill), 37, 
42, 63, 71, 119, 307 

botanical classification of, 
119 

culture of, 119, 120, 121 

history of, 119 

propagation of, 119 

soil for, 119 

value of, 119 

varieties of, 123, 124 



319 



INDEX 



German ivy (Senecia scan- 
deus), 270 
botanical classification of, 

270 
general culture of, 270 
Germinate, 46 
Glazed pots, 26 
Gloxinia, 63, 70, 72, 14.2 
botanical classification of, 

142 
fertilization of, 142 
history of, 142 
propagation of, 142, 144, 

145, 146 
soil for, 142 
varieties of, 146, 147 
Grafting, 63 
Greenhouses, 6, 12, 54 

Hanging baskets, 36, 289 
Heater, 12 

Heliotrope, 6, 42, 72, 162, 307 
botanical classification of, 

162 
culture of, 162, 163, 164 
history of, 162 
soil for, 164 
varieties of, 164 
Hibiscus, 151 
botanical classification of, 

151 
general culture of, 151, 152, 

153 
history of, 151 
insects which infest, 153, 

154 
seasons for, 153 



Hibiscus, soil for, 151 

varieties of, 154 
Horse manure, 15, 19, 38 
Hyacinths, 23, 81 

botanical classification of, 
81 

general culture of, 83, 84, 
85 

history of, 82 

soil for, 82 

storage of, 82 

varieties of, 87 
Hydrangea, 172 

botanical classification of, 
172 

history of, 172 

propagation of, 173 

seasons for, 173 

summer treatment for, 173 

varieties of, 174 

winter culture for, 173 
Hydrogen, 13 

Insecticides, 308, 312 

Insects and their control, 43, 

45, 54, 61, 62 
Iron, 2Q 

Jardiniere, 35, 310 
Jasminum, 279 

botanical classification of, 
279 

general culture of, 280, 281 

history of, 279 

insects and control of, 280 

soil for, 279, 280 

species of, 279 



320 



INDEX 



Kentia belmoreana, 307 
Kentia forsteriana, 307 
Kitchens, 6 
Knife, 67, 312 
Krick's pot hangers, 31 

Lamp, 10 
Lantana, 182 

botanical chissificatioii of, 
182 

general culture of, 182, 183 

history of, 182 
Laundry tub, 58 
Leaf cuttings, 63, 70, 72 
Leaf mold, 19 
I^an-to greenhouse, 11, 12 
Lettuce, 12 
Lilac, 72 
Lily of the valley, 103 

botanical classification of, 
103 

forcing of, 104 

history of, 103, 104 

pips for culture of, 104 

soil for, 104 

storage of, 105 
Lime, 20, 25, 51 
Lime water, 50 
Liquid cow manure, 35, 39 
Lobelia, 72 
London, 10 

Macbell's plant food, 41 
Madeira vine, 269 

botanical classification of, 
269 

general culture of, 269 



Mak Gro, 40 
Manure, 14, 19, 63, 73 
Maranto vittata, 307 
Marguerite, 165 

general culture of, 166, 167, 
168 

insects wliich infest, 167 

j)ropagation of, 166 

season for, 168 

sha])ing of, 166 

soil for, 166 
Mealy bug, 60 
Medicines, 40 
Mignonette, 307 
Missionaries, 8 
Moisture, 10, 23, 34, 35, 37, 

43, 46, 50, 70, 79 
Mosses, 63 
Muck-land, 17 
Mycelium, 47 

Narcissus, 91 
botanical classification of, 

91 
culture of, 93 
general advice for, 94 
history of, 91 
insects which infest, 93 

control of, 93 
myth concerning, 91 
soil for, 93 
varieties of, 94 
Nasturtium, 272 
botanical classification of, 

272 
general culture of, 272, 
273 



321 



INDEX 



Natural haunts, 14 
Nephrolepis, 307 
Newspapers, 42, 69 
Nicotine, 54 
Nitrate of soda, 40 
Nitrogen, 13 
Nozzle, 309 

Odor, 20 
Oilcloth, 43 
Oil stove, 10 
Oleander, 136 

botanical classification of, 
136 

general culture of, 137 

history of, 136, 137 

insects which infest, 137 
control of, 138 

poisons in plants of, 137 

soil for, 137 
Organisms, 17 
Oxalis, 16 

botanical classification of, 
116 

culture of, 117, 118 

history of, 116 

seasons for, 117 

soil for, 117 

varieties of, 117, 118 
Oxygen, 13 

Palms, 37, 236 

botanical classification of, 

236 
feeding for, 240, 244 
general use of, 237 
history of, 236 



Palms, insects which Infest, 
240, 241, 242, 243 
mistakes in general culture 

of, 238 
soil for, 238, 239 
varieties of, 245 
Pans, 313 
Pansies, 63 
Paris, 10 

Paris green, 61, 308 
Parlor syringe, 42 
Patent fertilizers, 40 
Peach trees, 63 
Pelargonium (Lady Washing- 
ton), 72, 124, 307 
botanical classification of, 

124 
culture of, 126 
feeding for, 126 
history of, 124 
insects which infest, 126, 
127 
control of, 126, 127 
varieties of, 127 
Petunia, 72, 154 

botanical classification of, 

154 
culture of, 155, 156 
history of, 154 
insects which infest, 156 

control of, 156 
soil for, 155 
varieties of, 156 
Phoenix roebelenii, 307 
Piazza, 12 
Plant banquets, 49 
Plant food tablets, 308 

322 



INDEX 



Plant life, 1 

Plant lice. See Aphides 

Plant window, 10 

Plates, 25 

Plumbago, 176 

botanical classification of, 
176 

culture of, 176, 177 

history of, 176 

propagation of, 176 

varieties of, 177 
Plunging, 34 
Polypodium, 308 
Porch gardening, 282 
Pots, 13, 35, 59, 70 
Pots and pans, 310 
Pteris, 308 
Pyrethrum, 81, 308 

Radiator, 10, 313 

Radishes, 12 

Raffia, 312 

Red spider, 60 

Register, 313 

Rest rooms, 6 

Rex begonia. See Begonia 

Rim, 28, 29 

Root cuttings, 63 

Rose beetle, 61 

Roses, 6, 46, 72, 225 

botanical classification of, 
225 

diseases of, 223 

don'ts and do's of culture 
of, 233, 234, 235 

general culture of, 228, 229, 
230 



Roses, history and myth 
concerning, 225 
insects which infest, 230, 231 

control of, 230, 231 
propagation of, 226, 227 
soil for, 228 
varieties of, 233 
Rubber plant (Ficus elas- 
tica), 209, 307 
botanical classification of, 

209 
culture of, 214, 215 
propagation of, 209, 210, 

211, 212 
soil for, 212, 213 
varieties of, 216 
washing of, 215 
Rust, 26 

Sand, 18, 68, 74 
Saucers, 25, 309 
Saxifraga sarmentosa, 72, 273, 
310 

botanical classification of, 
273 

general culture of, 273 
Scale insects, 5Q 
Scum, 33, 57 
Seed, 63, 65 
Seed flat, 33, 63 
Seedling, 26, 30, 31, 38, 65 
Sewing-rooms, 6 
Shavings (pine), 19 
Sheets, 42 
Slugs, 25 
Sods, 14, 20, 63 
Soil, 13 



323 



INDEX 



Soil, sour, 19, 25 
Spirea (Astilbe), 134 

botanical classification of, 
134 

culture of, 135, 136 

history of, 134 

season for, 134 

soil for, 135 

varieties of, 136 
Sponge, 57 
Spores, 63 
Spray, 59 

Sprays and syringes, 312 
Spraying, 42, 45 
Spring, 296 

care of pots in the, 
298 

compost heap, building of, 
in the, 299 

general advice for, 296, 297, 
298, 299 
Sprinkler, 33 
Stable manure, 38 
Stagnant water, 25, 35 
Stands, 310 
Stem cuttings, 67 
Sterilizing, 17 
Stevia, 72, 307 
Stick, 34 
Stones, 14 
Stove, 10, 11 
Straw, 15, 19, 77 
Suckers, 63 
Suffocation, 54 
Sulphur, 48, 52 
Summer, 29, 299 

enemies in the, 299, 300 



Summer, protection of plants 
in the, 299 
spraying in the, 299, 300 
Summertime, 8 
Sunday-school room, 6 
Sweet peas, 39 
Swimming pools, 6 
Syringing, 42, 45 

Table decorations, 313 

Tankage, 40 

Tea, 35 

Temperature, 10, 44, 73, 81 

Thompson's chrysanthemum 

manure, 40 
Thrips, 61 
Thunbergia alata, 272 

botanical classification of, 
272 

general culture of, 272 
Tin cans, 26, 36 
Tobacco dust, 81, 308 
Tobacco stems, 54, 60 
Tomatoes, 39 
Toothpicks, 70 
Tradescantia, 274, 310 

botanical classification of, 
274 

general culture of, 274, 275. 
276 

history of, 274 

uses of, 276 

varieties of, 276 
Trellises, 311 
Tuberous root begonia, 174 

general culture of, 174 

varieties of, 175 



324 



INDEX 



Tubs, 23 
Tulips, 23, 88 

botanical classification of, 
88 

culture of, 89 

history of, 88 

manure for, 90 

soil for, 88 

storage of, 89 

varieties of, 90 

Vacuum cleaner, 42 
Valloto, 114 

botanical classification of, 
114 

general culture of, 115 

history of, 114 
. propagation of, 115 

seasons for, 116 

soil for, 114 
Vegetables, 12, 39 
Ventilation, 3 
Vermin, 17 
Vessels, 25 
Vinca, 72, 276, 307, 310 

botanical classification of, 
276 

general culture of, 276 

propagation of, 277, 278 

varieties of, 278 



Vines, 269 
Violet, 138 

botanical classification of, 
138 

general culture of, 139, 140, 
141 

history of, 138, 139 

propagation of, 140 

seasons for, 141 

soil for, 139 

varieties of, 141, 142 

Watering, 15, 32, 36, 37 
Watering pot, 309 
Whiskbroom, 43 
White fly, 60 
Wilting, 70 

Window boxes, 37, 313 
Window glass, 52 
Winter, 8, 36, 301 

bedroom in the, 301 

dangers in the, 301, 302 

gas in the, 301 

general advice for, 304, 305, 
306 

protection in the, 302, 303, 
304 
Wood, 13, 68 
Workshops, 6 
Worms, 19, 51 



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